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Table of contents

1. Butterfly Valley (Lien Minh) 54 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Sport, Unknown and Trad

Long/Lat: 106.995272, 20.771072

Description:
  • Visit SloPony in Cat Ba for an access pass. It's cheap and ensures climbing is allowed to continue here.
  • Routes listed L to R.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Intrigues 6a+Sport 22m
2 Dublin Mudslide 6aSport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * The Grass Is Always Greener 6b+Sport Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Very fun route.

4 Year of the Tiger 7cSport Lee Cujes 3 years ago

New route, needed heaps more cleaning - urgh! Good now though. Cool leaning cracks up high, and a...

5 Thanks For The Memories 7bSport 32m, 15 Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

This route is a bit overrated -- I'd almost go with 11d (7a). Regardless, the climbing is very fu...

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Glenn's route, I snagged the FA. Thanks mate. Start 4m L of The Grass is Always Greener at large ...

6 My Way or the Railway 8aSport 13 Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Spent a bit on this one, worked out the moves. Would need at least another couple goes before the...

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Extension to My Way up the twin, leaning, overhung fingercracks will see your fingers and shoes w...

7 My Way 7aSport 9 Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Hard for 7a, and very hard for the onsight. I had the benefit of watching as I belayed. Excellent...

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

From top of stacked blocks, lean across chasm to shallow corner. Up this with some tricky moves t...

8 Moustache Massage Man 6bSport 10m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

There's a somewhat tricky mantle move at the end, but otherwise its quite soft for this grade.

Lee Cujes 3 years ago

Short new one with crux at anchors. Trail shoes.

9 Vu Duyen 5bSport 10m Lee Cujes 3 years ago

Another short newie. Trail shoes.

10 Fingerless Pho Man 6c+Sport 20m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Felt hard to me for 11c through the thuggy layback/jamming section. Fun overall, good climbing.

Lee Cujes 3 years ago

I didn't like the bolt positions on the steep wall. Ended up grabbing the draw - wtf! The horror!

11 Chia Tay (Divide Hands) 7bSport 20m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Some tricky business on this one for the grade. Skipped the last bolt on the rp, by the time you ...

Lee Cujes 3 years ago

Sussed it out on the lower, then flashed. Freakin nails for 7b. It might even be hard for 7b+?

12 Brooklyn Buddah 7b+Sport Project 17m
13 Dream Weaver 7c+Unknown 22m
14 Chuyen Nui 14Sport 18m
15 * 5 fun

FA: Erik Ferjentsik

13Sport 21m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 ** Roots Reggae 14Sport 25m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Fun climbing through the roots of the tree.

Andy Stys 5 years ago

Check Out the Veiw over your shoulder, awesome.

17 * Bread and Butter 15Sport 15m
18 Brian's Project 6c+Sport 20m
19 * Very Tot 6bSport 20m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

First route we did in Vietnam. Fun climbing, crux near the beginning.

20 ** Miyagi Box Maker 7a+Unknown 20m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Crux near the beginning. Nice rock

21 ** You Enjoy Myself 6bSport 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 *** Prayer Of The Mantis 7bUnknown 20m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Multiple ways through the crux -- fun climbing.

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Wicked arete with a tufa flow down it.

23 ** A Dengue Ate My Davey 23Sport 20m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

A bit convoluted up top -- stay right for the best line.

24 Hippie Banana Tree Killer 26Sport 24m
25 Passive Aggressive 25Unknown 18m
26 If Only I Could Be A Shrimp 25Unknown 24m
27 ** Cracker Jack 22Unknown 20m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Fun moves, good for a rapid warm up.

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Leaning pumpyness

28 ** Team Ling Ling 24Unknown 27m
29 Pappi's Paradise 23Unknown 27m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Definitely some solid moves at the grade on this one. This day was hot, and it definitely sapped ...

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
30 Enter The Dragon

FA: Erik Ferjentsik

30 to 31Unknown 35m Lee Cujes 4 years ago

All moves, very hot.

31 Horseless Samurai

FFA: Audrey Sniezek (onsight!), 2010

7cSport 25m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

I think this 7c, or soft 7c+. Fun climbing: if it were more consistently difficult in the upper h...

32 Obama 101 7a+Sport Lee Cujes 4 years ago

4th ascent of this new route.

33 Buffalo Love 7a+Sport 15 Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Unlikely this one is 12a ... but its tons of fun. Good variety - crack through a bulge, up a deli...

34 * Up Syndrome 7aSport 13 Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Harder than the other 7a's in the area. The line of climbing feels a bit off from the intended li...

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Wasn't super impressed with this one.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
35 * Where the Wild Things Aren't 6a+Sport
36 * 50/50 7aSport 10 Lee Cujes 3 years ago

This route was actually my concept. I toproped it in Nov 2009 and told Slo it was worth doing. Th...

37 *** Elephant Man 6cSport Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

One of the best at the crag, not hard for the grade, but tons of fun beginning to end.

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Perfectly sculpted mega pockets up tech slab.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
38 Roman's Karmic Curse

Just left of Monarch.

FFA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011

8a+Sport Project
39 Bolts 'R' us 6c+Sport
40 *** Monarch 7c+Sport 27m, 12 Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Batted higher than average today. I think the crux is easier for long reaches, as I was able to m...

Lee Cujes 3 years ago
Freakin awesome! This cliff just keeps on giving. Super bouldery crux sequence with wild swings ...
41 * Hunting Double Rainbows 7aSport 22m, 11
42 * The Feeling of Freedom 6bSport 22m, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
43 Freakonomics 24Sport 27m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Excellent climbing, beginning to end.

Lee Cujes 3 years ago

Good rock. Sussed new route afterwards.

44 ** Muhammad Ali 7bSport 20m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Hard at 7a+, solid at 7b. Great climbing: if not for the momentum breaking chimney through the bi...

Lee Cujes 3 years ago

A bit of everything. Slab, pockets, a chimney, and pocketed headwall with a sting in the tail. Yo...

45 * Rome to Hanoi express 16Sport 18m
46 Argentina's delight 20Sport 27m Lee Cujes 4 years ago

A ramble up a corner. Not good.

47 Place your nuts right

10m extension pitch on top of AD.

6b+Sport 37m
48 ** Flight of the Bumble Bee 7cUnknown 27m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Only got on this one once before we had to leave -- look forward to trying again. Sorted out the ...

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Last hold on OS. Was 28 when I did it, but I've suggested 26/7. [2]

49 ** Mother Butterfly 18Sport 27m Lee Cujes 4 years ago

tip top

50 *** Windchime of the ants 24Unknown 27m Fred Vanden Bergh 3 years ago

Fun, long tufa pulling

Lee Cujes 4 years ago

Super hanging fins and tufas. Kneebars!

51 Butterfly Effect 8aSport 15m
52 Firefly

FFA: Andrew Christensen, 2009

5.11Trad
53 Love for Breakfast LHV 6cSport 15m
54 Love for Breakfast RHV 6cSport 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
13 * 5 fun Sport 21m
14 Chuyen Nui Sport 18m
** Roots Reggae Sport 25m
15 * Bread and Butter Sport 15m
16 * Rome to Hanoi express Sport 18m
5b Vu Duyen Sport 10m
18 ** Mother Butterfly Sport 27m
6a Dublin Mudslide Sport 20m
6a+ Intrigues Sport 22m
* Where the Wild Things Aren't Sport
6b Moustache Massage Man Sport 10m
* The Feeling of Freedom Sport 22m, 11
* Very Tot Sport 20m
** You Enjoy Myself Sport 20m
20 Argentina's delight Sport 27m
6b+ Place your nuts right Sport 37m
* The Grass Is Always Greener Sport
6c *** Elephant Man Sport
Love for Breakfast LHV Sport 15m
Love for Breakfast RHV Sport 25m
22 ** Cracker Jack Unknown 20m
6c+ Bolts 'R' us Sport
Brian's Project Sport 20m
Fingerless Pho Man Sport 20m
5.11 Firefly Trad
23 ** A Dengue Ate My Davey Sport 20m
Pappi's Paradise Unknown 27m
7a * 50/50 Sport 10
* Hunting Double Rainbows Sport 22m, 11
My Way Sport 9
* Up Syndrome Sport 13
24 Freakonomics Sport 27m
** Team Ling Ling Unknown 27m
*** Windchime of the ants Unknown 27m
7a+ Buffalo Love Sport 15
** Miyagi Box Maker Unknown 20m
Obama 101 Sport
25 If Only I Could Be A Shrimp Unknown 24m
Passive Aggressive Unknown 18m
7b Chia Tay (Divide Hands) Sport 20m
** Muhammad Ali Sport 20m
*** Prayer Of The Mantis Unknown 20m
Thanks For The Memories Sport 32m, 15
26 Hippie Banana Tree Killer Sport 24m
7b+ Brooklyn Buddah Sport Project 17m
7c ** Flight of the Bumble Bee Unknown 27m
Horseless Samurai Sport 25m
Year of the Tiger Sport
7c+ Dream Weaver Unknown 22m
*** Monarch Sport 27m, 12
8a Butterfly Effect Sport 15m
My Way or the Railway Sport 13
8a+ Roman's Karmic Curse Sport Project
30 to 31 Enter The Dragon Unknown 35m