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Table of contents

1. Butterfly Valley (Lien Minh) 57 routes in Area

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Sport

Long/Lat: 106.995272, 20.771072

Description:
  • Visit Asia Outdoors in Cat Ba for an access pass. It's cheap and ensures climbing is allowed to continue here.
  • Routes listed L to R.
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Intrigues

Shares the start with Dublin Mudslide and splits off left after a ledge halfway up. Also may be dirty after rainy season.

FA: David Weintraub

6a Sport 28m, 13
2 Dublin Mudslide

Start on the furthest left bolted line in Upper Mantle and head straight up.

FA: Sander DiAngelis

6a Sport 25m, 12
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
3 * The Grass Is Always Greener

Pumpy start, then a nice rest before a technical face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik

6b Sport 23m, 13
4 Year of the Tiger

Crimpy!

FA: @reaganchung, 2010

7c Sport 26m, 12
5 ** Thanks For The Memories

Start just left of the large tufa and go way up a ledgey face until a tough overhanging crack.

FA: Glenn Ferguson, 2009

7b Sport 31m, 15
6 ...Or the Railway / My Way Extension

The 10m extension to My Way up two overhung fingercracks.

FA: Lee Cujes,and Team Australia, 2009

8a Sport 10m, 13
7 *** My Way

Consider a stickclip for the first bolt not to fall into the cave below!

FA: @leecujes,and Team Australia, 2009

7a+ Sport 18m, 9
8 Moustache Massage Man

Crimpy start into a ledgey climb. Extends into Cung-Duoc-Day (7b) for another 17m with some bouldery moves.

FFA: Vu Nguyen

FA: Maureen Adridge, 2010

7b Sport 2 16
9 Vu Duyen

Nice warmup.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2010

5c Sport 8m, 7
10 Fingerless Pho Man

Fairly easy climbing until the overhang. Follow the obvious crack to the anchor. Can be a bit dirty after rainy season.

FA: Reagan Chung, 2010

6c+ Sport 20m, 10
11 Chia Tay (Divide Hands)

Shares the start and anchors with Fingerless Pho Man and branches off right onto the face before the overhung crack.

FA: @reaganchung, 2010

7a+ Sport 20m, 12
12 Brooklyn Buddah

Relatively easy climbing until a leaning dihedral crack with a crux near the end. May be easier for taller climbers.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2011

7a Sport Project 18m, 10
13 Dream Weaver

Clip the first bolt from the boulder above to avoid a fall into the cave below. Start in the cave on two knobby white tufas.

FA: Chris Lindner, 2008

7c+ Unknown 22m, 18
14 Chuyen Nui

Nice warmup. Shares the start with 5 Fun, then branches left towards the cave.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

5a Sport 20m, 10
15 5 Fun

Nice warmup. Shares the start with Chuyen Nui and then branches right onto the slab.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

5a Sport 22m, 9
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 ** Roots Reggae

UPDATE 29.2.16: The 1st bolt is loose, though the remainder of the route is climbable. Check in with Asia Outdoors in Cat Ba for current route conditions.

Consider back-cleaning the first few bolts to avoid rope drag. A really fun climb up nice holds and tree roots! Can be extended another 6m and 3 bolts to a higher anchor.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

4+ Sport 2 13
17 Bread and Butter

9 bolts, 1 sling. Consider backing up the sling, or extending some of the last bolts to avoid rope drag. Some tricky moves getting through the dihedral at the start, but fun climbing afterwards!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

5c Sport 23m, 9
18 ** Brian's"Closed" Project

Bouldery start, relatively calm middle section, and overhang just before the anchor to make it more fun!

FA: Brian Jones, 2011

6c+ Sport 22m, 13
19 ** Very Tot

Tricky overhang start leads to awesome climbing and a huge tufa.

FA: Stephen Le, 2007

6b+ Sport 21m, 11
20 ** Miyagi Box Maker

Bouldery start, consider stick-clipping the first bolt. A couple cruxes.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

6c+ Sport 20m, 12
21 ** You Enjoy Myself

Crux is getting out of the dihedral and over the lip.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

6b Sport 20m, 11
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
22 *** Prayer Of The Mantis

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt. Following the bolt line is the direct route, though many take an alternate start a bit to the left and closer to You Enjoy Myself. Stay on the arete and avoid coming out right onto the face for the true line!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

7b Sport 20m, 11
23 A Dengue Ate My Davey

Traverse the face on pockets to a slopey ledge. The direct line goes straight up the roof, though some feel this is contrived and opt to traverse left up the ledge and direct to the anchors.

FA: Dave Nassi, 2007

6c+ Sport 19m, 10
24 Hippie Banana Tree Killer

Crazy overhang with bouldery moves.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

7b+ Sport 25m, 13
25 Passive Aggressive

Big overhang on large pockets and then pumpy face climbing.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

7b+ Sport 21m, 11
26 If Only I Could Be A Shrimp

Powerful roof climbing into a tricky face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

7b Unknown 25m, 13
27 ** Cracker Jack

Pumpy jug climbing with a few good rests and a few cruxes.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

6c Sport 21m, 12
28 ** Team Ling Ling

Shares the start with Pappi's Paradise and branches up and left at the second (smaller) roof.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

7a+ Sport 28m, 14
29 * Pappi's Paradise

Shares the start with Team Ling Ling, and branches right at the second (smaller) roof. Enjoy the subsequent sloepy tufa face climb!

FA: Chris Clohessey, 2008

7a Sport 28m, 14
30 Little Dragon

Start shared with Enter the Dragon but heads straight up the giant mushroom-tufa after exiting the cave. Tie a knot in the end of your rope!

FFA: Vu Nguyen, 2012

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2012

7c Sport 35m, 15
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
31 Enter The Dragon

Shares the start with Little Dragon in the dragon's mouth cave. Exit the cave and head up and right onto its teeth and face. Professional belay recommended. Tie a know in the end of your rope.

FFA: Erik Ferjentsik

FA: Marcus, 2009

8a+ Sport 35m, 14
32 Horseless Samurai

Overhangs and tufas and cracks. Have fun!

FA: Onslo Carrington

FFA: Audrey Sniezek (onsight!), 2010

7c+ Sport 27m, 15
33 ** Obama 101

Cracks and tufas. Crux at third bolt. Careful belay recommended.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2009

7a Sport 20m, 12
34 *** Buffalo Love

Dihedral crack to roof to slab. Bit of everything! Watch out for the boulder at the start (spot, crashpad, or start on top of it) or consider princess clipping the first bolt! Back-clean afterwards to avoid rope drag and help out your belayer.

FA: Onslo Carrington

FFA: Peter Mortimer, 2009

7a+ Sport 26m, 15
35 Up Syndrome

Crimpy tufas to a nice rest, then tackle the slopey ledge for the crux.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

7a Sport 20m, 13
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 * Where the Wild Things Aren't

Fun tufa climbing. Can be dirty near the top.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

6a Sport 24m, 10
37 * 50/50

Sketchy moves going past the first two bolts with a crux just below the anchor.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2009

6c Sport 20m, 10
38 *** Elephant Man

Classic! Enjoy pockets and cracks all along the face.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

6b+ Sport 20m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
39 Roman's Karmic Curse

Small holds requiring enduring power.

FA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011

FFA: Steve Bradshaw, 2011

8a+ Sport 17m, 10
40 * Bolts 'R' us

Gentle overhang on nice holds leads to a powerful crux. Most opt for a dynamic approach, but an absurd drop knee allows for a static movement.

FA: Matt Raue,Jo Bulmer, 2010

6c+ Sport 16m, 8
41 *** Monarch

Begins with an easy crack then changes dramatically into a sustained crux to the anchors.

FA: @leecujes, 2010

7c+ Sport 25m, 13
42 Hunting Double Rainbows

Beautiful tufas and pockets then a techy dihedral before the anchor.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2011

6c+ Sport 20m, 12
43 * The Feeling of Freedom

Big tufas to a tricky finish. Tends to be dirty and is not frequently repeated as a result.

FA: Sinan Turb, 2012

6b Sport 19m, 10
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
44 ** Freakonomics

Diverse climbing with several cruxes and overhangs.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

7b Sport 27m, 13
45 ** Muhammad Ali

Pockets to slab to overhang with some nice rests. Top is technical and makes the grade and necessitates a careful belay.

FA: @leecujes,Samantha Cujes, 2010

7b Sport 22m, 12
46 * Rome to Hanoi express

Lots of pockets and cracks to some ledges which can be tricky!

FA: Nicola Gatti, 2008

6a Sport 19m, 9
47 Argentina's Delight

Easy arête climbing (shared start with Flight of the Bumblebee and Mother butterfly) leads to a crack on the left. May be extended into Place Your Nuts Right for another 12m, but requires an 80m rope or two rappels.

FA: Javier Guillani,Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

6b Sport 29m, 13
48 Place Your Nuts Right / Argentina's Delight Extension

A 12m extension atop Argentina's Delight. Can be a little sharp and dirty near the top, and somewhat heady on lead! Great exposure and view of the surrounding valley.

FA: Sinan Turb,Onslo Carrington, 2012

6c Sport 12m, 7
49 ** Flight of the Bumble Bee

Shared start with Argentina's Delight and Mother Butterfly. Easy climbing at 6b/6c leads to the cruxy 2-3m before the anchors. Hope you like slopey pinches! Some argue these last moves are 7c.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

7b+ Sport 28m, 13
50 ** Mother Butterfly

Shared start with Argentina's Delight and Flight of the Bumblebee. Branch right at the first opportunity and continue up the beautiful face. Don't forget to take a look out from the top!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

6a+ Sport 29m, 13
51 Vu's Project #1

A 6b roof on pockets leads to a nice rest before a blank face. Attempt the minuscule crimps to the anchors.

Set by Vu Nguyen

8b Sport Project 8m, 7
52 ** Windchime of the Ants

Diverse climbing through resonant tufas onto stalactites and a nice face. May be dirty and/or flooded during/after the wet season.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2007

7a Sport 28m, 13
53 Vu's Project #2

No anchor yet. Attempts the overhung face just left of Butterfly Effect.

Set by Vu Nguyen

Sport Project 12m, 6
54 Butterfly Effect

Short but powerful through and overhang.

FA: @reaganchung, 2010

8a Sport 12m, 10
55 Firefly

FFA: Andrew Christensen, 2009

{US} 5.11 Trad
56 Searcing for Meaning / Love For Breakfast LHV

Shared start with Love for Breakfast. Branch left onto the white streaked face after a sharp ledge halfway up. Flooded during rainy season.

FA: Onslo Carrington, 2012

6c Sport 20m
57 Love for Breakfast / Love for Breakfast RHV

Shared start with Searching for Meaning. Stay right after the sharp ledge and onto the white rock. Flooded during rainy season.

FA: Matthew McGeever,Onslo Carrington, 2012

6c Sport 25m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
4+ ** Roots Reggae Sport 2 13
5a 5 Fun Sport 22m, 9
Chuyen Nui Sport 20m, 10
5c Bread and Butter Sport 23m, 9
Vu Duyen Sport 8m, 7
6a Dublin Mudslide Sport 25m, 12
Intrigues Sport 28m, 13
* Rome to Hanoi express Sport 19m, 9
* Where the Wild Things Aren't Sport 24m, 10
6a+ ** Mother Butterfly Sport 29m, 13
6b Argentina's Delight Sport 29m, 13
* The Feeling of Freedom Sport 19m, 10
* The Grass Is Always Greener Sport 23m, 13
** You Enjoy Myself Sport 20m, 11
6b+ *** Elephant Man Sport 20m, 10
** Very Tot Sport 21m, 11
6c * 50/50 Sport 20m, 10
** Cracker Jack Sport 21m, 12
Love for Breakfast Sport 25m
Place Your Nuts Right Sport 12m, 7
Searcing for Meaning Sport 20m
6c+ A Dengue Ate My Davey Sport 19m, 10
* Bolts 'R' us Sport 16m, 8
** Brian's"Closed" Project Sport 22m, 13
Fingerless Pho Man Sport 20m, 10
Hunting Double Rainbows Sport 20m, 12
** Miyagi Box Maker Sport 20m, 12
5.11 Firefly Trad
7a Brooklyn Buddah Sport Project 18m, 10
** Obama 101 Sport 20m, 12
* Pappi's Paradise Sport 28m, 14
Up Syndrome Sport 20m, 13
** Windchime of the Ants Sport 28m, 13
7a+ *** Buffalo Love Sport 26m, 15
Chia Tay (Divide Hands) Sport 20m, 12
*** My Way Sport 18m, 9
** Team Ling Ling Sport 28m, 14
7b ** Freakonomics Sport 27m, 13
If Only I Could Be A Shrimp Unknown 25m, 13
Moustache Massage Man Sport 2 16
** Muhammad Ali Sport 22m, 12
*** Prayer Of The Mantis Sport 20m, 11
** Thanks For The Memories Sport 31m, 15
7b+ ** Flight of the Bumble Bee Sport 28m, 13
Hippie Banana Tree Killer Sport 25m, 13
Passive Aggressive Sport 21m, 11
7c Little Dragon Sport 35m, 15
Year of the Tiger Sport 26m, 12
7c+ Dream Weaver Unknown 22m, 18
Horseless Samurai Sport 27m, 15
*** Monarch Sport 25m, 13
8a ...Or the Railway Sport 10m, 13
Butterfly Effect Sport 12m, 10
8a+ Enter The Dragon Sport 35m, 14
Roman's Karmic Curse Sport 17m, 10
8b Vu's Project #1 Sport Project 8m, 7
? Vu's Project #2 Sport Project 12m, 6