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Summary

Dry in light rain, covered and shaded most of the day. From easy stuff to roof climbing.

Description

Climbing area owned and maintained by Cat Ba Climbing / Mr. Zoom. Wide range of styles to climb, from juggy lines and slab routes to overhanging roof climbs. Routes to suit all levels. Great place to learn lead and / or multi-pitch climbing. Small bouldering cave. Toilet. Camping and campfires allowed.

Access issues

Access pass required to enter the crag on private property. Please purchase your access pass from Cat Ba Climbing / Mr. Zoom (25.000 VND, 2016). All proceeds go towards local land owners, bolting and maintenance.

Approach

From the town it is only a 5 min drive to the parking area, from which you hike to the crag in about 10 min. Get directions from Cat Ba Climbing / Mr. Zoom. Closed footwear advised, might be slippery after rain.

Where to stay

Stay anywhere in Cat Ba town, the crag is only a short drive away from the town centre.

Ethic

Leave with more rubbish than you came with. Show respect to the local land owners.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route
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1
7a ** Test Pilot Sport 22m, 8

Follow the crack on the right bringing you to the crux at 2-3 bolt: dyno to good pocket. Kneebar size cave afterwards. Stay on overhanging wavy slab. Easy middle section up and under the tree. Slight left under the roof with nice moves to the anchor on the left.

Set by Cat Ba Climbing

2
6b *** Srew You Sport 9

Named for it's mono signature crux move using the middle finger. Great range of different styles in this climb.

Set by Cat Ba Climbing

FA: Jonny Willis

3
6c ** House of Jugs Sport 6

Climb a steep wall with loads of jugs and knee bars to choose from, then an out stretched powerful move to come out of the roof with a tricky finish.

Set by Cat Ba Climbing

FA: Ryan Moore

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4
7b ** Shampoo Effect Sport 8

Slab climbing to the roof, then follow the crack/flake before moving right. Get's harder and harder with each bolt.

5
7c ** Gecko: Power & Good Vibes Sport 6

First two easy bolts lead to an intimidating overhang wormhole. Glue-in bolts. Closed project.

Set by Carlos Sanz, 2016

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6
4+ *** No Problem Sport 7m, 3

Easy and short beginner route. Perfect for instructors to teach (lead) climbing. Mind your head when you reach for the anchor, wearing a helmet is advised. All bolts are glue-in bolts.

Set by Niels Tork, 2016

FFA: Niels Tork, 2016

FA: Niels Tork, 2016

7
4+ *** First Time Get It Sport 7m, 2

Easy and short beginner route. All bolts are glue-in bolts.

Set by Niels Tork, 2016

FFA: Niels Tork, 2016

FA: Niels Tork, 2016

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8
5b *** Lost In The Jungle Sport 2, 8

Multi-pitch to the highest roof. First pitch has crux between first and second bolt (5b), then it is easy climbing (4) to comfortable anchors. First pitch has 8 bolts and one sling. Then two different climbs, Tarzan (left) and Jane (right) to the high roof. Use the anchor on the left for rappelling down, not the belay anchor. Ground anchor available for belayer. All bolts are glue-in bolts.

Set by Niels Tork, 2016

FFA: Niels Tork, 2016

FA: Niels Tork, 2016

9
5b Tarzan Sport 4

After climbing Lost In The Jungle, this is one of the secondary pitches starting on the left side. Tarzan is slightly more strenuous than Jane, but with good holds the more easy option. Use the most comfortable anchor with chain for belaying, rappel using the separate rappelling anchor on the far left. All bolts are glue-in bolts.

FFA: Niels Tork, 2016

Set by Niels Tork & Carlos Sanz, 2016

FA: Niels Tork, 2016

10
5c Jane Sport 4

After climbing Lost In The Jungle, this is one of the secondary pitches starting on the right side. Jane is slightly more technical than Tarzan, and usually a more challenging option. Use the undercling, move your feet up and reach for the good holds. Use the anchor with chain on the right for belaying, rappel using the separate rappelling anchor on the far left. All bolts are glue-in bolts.

FFA: Carlos Sanz

FA: Carlos Sanz

Set by Niels Tork & Carlos Sanz, 2016

11
6b+ ** Which Way To The Beach Sport 15m, 7

Easy climbing to a tricky crux to pass the small roof. Then fun bridging between the two big stalactites. Be aware of the stalagmite behind the belayer: the climber can hit it if the belayer gives too much slack at the crux on the small roof.

Set by Cat Ba Climbing

12
V1 Fat Santa Boulder

At the back of the cave, climb the tunnel like a chimney to the top to poke your head out from the hole.

13
V7 Around The World Boulder

Start left of the entrance and work your way around the cave in a clockwise direction. When reaching the right side, keep your feet above the half meter mark and finish exiting the cave. Alternative finishes: staying lower and using a knee bar before exiting the cave. Can also be linked with Total Eclipse Of The Heart.

14
V6 Scotch Mist Boulder

At the back of the cave, make a strenuous move leftwards. Standing start matching on an undercut.

15
V3 Total Eclipse Of The Heart Boulder

Heading out from the right side of the cave, follow the good pockets in the roof. Finish using a big move slapping the jugs around the lip.

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16
7b ** Next Time Get It Sport 14

A hard move only a few meters up with good climbing to an intimidating overhang. Strenuous moves leftwards and out of the cave.

17
6a+ * Ich Will In Dich Sein Sport 17m, 10

A nice climb with underclings and pockets. Panoramic view in the upper section during the no-hands rest on the tufa on the right.

18
6b * Bozo's Big Day Sport 10

Nice climb with loads of holes and pockets bringing you closer to the crux: clipping the anchor.

19
6b * Thank You Sir Sport 10

Climb a layback flake to find the crux halfway through.

20
5b ** Ants In My Pants Sport 10m, 3

Good warm up. Short but fun and many good holds. Anchor with permanent lower-off carabiners.

21
5c ** Jail Bait Sport 10m, 4

Boulder style start (6a), with an easy finish knocking it down a grade. Spotting adviced. Anchor with permanent lower-off carabiners.

22
6a *** Ginger Bread Man Sport 16m, 7

Mantle up for the start and follow the crack to the top. Good opportunities to take rests. Probably the best 6a in the valley.

FA: Ryan Moore

Set by Cat Ba Climbing, 2016

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23
4+ ** Zoom Zoom Zoom Sport 17m, 6

Very nice beginner climb, with lots of juggy holds and comfortable exposure. Leave a draw clipped or make sure the rope doesn't get caught when top roping.

FA: Nguyen Manh Dung (Mr Zoom)

Set by Cat Ba Climbing, 2016

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24
7b ** An Com Sport 13m, 6

Slabby climb starting left, then going into a traverse before finishing on the right. One mandatory crux. Alternative start on the right makes it a 7a.

FA: Alexandre Eggermont

Set by Cat Ba Climbing, 2016

25
5c *** Green Lungs Sport 13m, 5

Easy beginning with sustained moves through the crux area. Anchor made from one bolt in the rock and one sling with a metal ring (use both to go safe on two points). Named for its green like lungs shape in the rock at the start.

FA: Morgan Choq

Set by Cat Ba Climbing, 2016

26
5b *** Up Rooted Sport 12m, 5

A little sharp at the start. Move out of the bowl to a slab finish. Named after the tree that had to be sacrificed for the creation of this climb.

FA: Cat Ba Climbing

Set by Cat Ba Climbing, 2016

27
5b *** Pick Pocket Sport 11m, 4

Awesome climb that is only slightly overhanging. Work your way up to the flake where you will find great pockets. Easy top section after crux, with very comfortable anchor.

Set by Cat Ba Climbing

FA: Cat Ba Climbing

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