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Jakob Kapelj started this discussion 2 years ago

Advice

Can anyone give any advice as to how many pieces of pro can be placed (roughly) on pitch two from the point at which "the holds banish", to the two bolt belay on steele breeze? I got lost, but coming down on top rope to get my gear I couldn't see any places to place pro in between?

Jakob Kapelj replied 2 years ago

More detailed description for P2 of Counterbalance, WARNING, contains Beta!

As you climb the juggy brown slab, trend left. Your last nut will be below you to the right with your last jug now below your feet. Your heart will start racing a bit because there is no holds and your feet are on small holds, but up to your left is a large looking fat flake sitting to the left part of a U shaped break. It looks achievable, just, but now is the point to look to the left for a small footer and some side grabs. Don't go straight up (I did the first time, its much harder than left) Go left! then up onto the bottom of the U shaped break.

After placing your pro, it looks like you could go straight up, there are some leftwards breaks directly above you, but after doing this on top rope, I think you now need to trend left, stepping off top of the block that contains your pro and smearing left along the block that is disappearing, look for a small side grab, then go up. This will put you the easier way to the same spot, which is a series of broken ledges which is the most featured rock you would have seen since the jugs. An obvious white streak is to your left and the featured rock goes gently off to the right to a cratered pocket (don't go right although it looks easy).

At this point, go diagonal left across the wide white streak, do not follow the featured blocky ledge to the right (this goes to balance which is a featureless grade 18 slab). This is a reasonably easy slab going almost 45degree left with the holds banishing for a metre of so at half way, the end is very easy, however there is about 12-15m between your nut placement and the anchors which will turn most off. (in a 45m pitch I placed four nuts prior to the rings of steel breeze).

I hope this helps any who are getting lost on this climb, I want to save those the hours of abseiling and top roping it took me to find my way on P2 of this climb.



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