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Cameron Roy started this discussion 1 years ago

Route line

The description in the neagle guide says to climb through the roof but the description and topo in the badenoch and adams guide show skirting around the right of the roof at the arete. Not sure which line we should mark here.

Paul Badenoch replied 1 years ago

Reece climbed through the roof at the crack 1m L of the arete (on TR, surprising he didn't lead it). Scott stuck to the arete all the way as shown in the book topo. I think it's a little tougher. He didn't claim a new route, just that he led the climb on the line he thought was intended, ie. the arete. With variant mania in full force these days, you could probably list these as CTTE variants as the crux moves are separate.

replied 1 years ago

And Paul, what is the route 1m right of the arete the whole way? there is a line of weakness the whole way, but it does go close to Caucasian Chalk Circle.

Paul Badenoch replied 1 years ago

If it has chalk on it, it would be someone's admirably direct version of CCC. The bottom moves would definitely be CCC/Catch-22. The top moves would be how I climb CCC (there's also another sequence slightly R). The middle moves sound L of the usual point where I and others leave Catch-22.

replied 1 years ago

Ah yes, that makes sense. So a mongrel then. I agree the pocket-in-the face move higher up is better than the move up the small vertical edge 1m to the right of it.



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