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for Pull Up.
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Grade for 'Pull Up"?
I'm copying this excerpt from a support email (below). Thought others might want to comment?
Campbell (Site Admin)
"On climb #20 Pull up, there is a 5.9 move to get over the roof where it is 5.5 before an after. Many parties I've see going up attempting to lead it and get into trouble. I think the grade of this climb should be changed or at least the description should indicate something about this more difficult move. I've bumped into at least a half dozen parties who have climbed it/attempted to climb it and have said that they were shocked at the rating because of the difficult move in the middle."
For this route (Pull Up) -- the grade is a hard call. There's a couple things going on, one it really does have only one hard move. And, that hard move is protected by a bolt that is clipped above, so it is basically done on top-rope. The other thing, is that grades around Ottawa are inconsistent -- there are a bunch of climbs that were put up 25+ years ago (in the 70s and 80s) and have very stiff grades. Then there's newer stuff, often sport, that is being put up in the last 5-10 years, where the grades are a lot softer (e.g most climbs at Montagne d'Argent). "Cool but Concerned" is a nearby climb, grade 5.8 (FA 1984), where on top-rope I can pull the crux section about 2 times in 3. I on-sighted Pull Up (route 20) when I first climbed it 5 years ago. The crux is, also, easier than the crux section on Phasers on Kill 5.7 (FA 1984, too). Compared to the routes around it, 5.6 seemed a reasonable grade. But, compared to grading in local climbing gyms, I could see it being called a 5.9 move.
It's a under-clinging move. Nothing complicated about it. The grade it has suits it.
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