Discussion: Grade for 'Pull Up"? started by Campbell Gome

  • Public discussion Pull Up
  • Started: 12 months ago on Aug 20, 2013

This is a public discussion for Pull Up.

Invite:


Showing all 3 messages

started this discussion 12 months ago

Grade for 'Pull Up"?

I'm copying this excerpt from a support email (below). Thought others might want to comment? Campbell (Site Admin)

"On climb #20 Pull up, there is a 5.9 move to get over the roof where it is 5.5 before an after. Many parties I've see going up attempting to lead it and get into trouble. I think the grade of this climb should be changed or at least the description should indicate something about this more difficult move. I've bumped into at least a half dozen parties who have climbed it/attempted to climb it and have said that they were shocked at the rating because of the difficult move in the middle."

replied 12 months ago

For this route (Pull Up) -- the grade is a hard call. There's a couple things going on, one it really does have only one hard move. And, that hard move is protected by a bolt that is clipped above, so it is basically done on top-rope. The other thing, is that grades around Ottawa are inconsistent -- there are a bunch of climbs that were put up 25+ years ago (in the 70s and 80s) and have very stiff grades. Then there's newer stuff, often sport, that is being put up in the last 5-10 years, where the grades are a lot softer (e.g most climbs at Montagne d'Argent). "Cool but Concerned" is a nearby climb, grade 5.8 (FA 1984), where on top-rope I can pull the crux section about 2 times in 3. I on-sighted Pull Up (route 20) when I first climbed it 5 years ago. The crux is, also, easier than the crux section on Phasers on Kill 5.7 (FA 1984, too). Compared to the routes around it, 5.6 seemed a reasonable grade. But, compared to grading in local climbing gyms, I could see it being called a 5.9 move.

Rope Gunner replied 12 months ago

It's a under-clinging move. Nothing complicated about it. The grade it has suits it.



Sign up for free to join this discussion on theCrag.

Already got an account? Login to add your comment

Showing all 3 messages

Sponsors