Discussion: Anyone got any useful beta on this thing? There's no way it's 21! I can't get my right hand off the started by Anthony Cuskelly

  • Public discussion Anal Crank
  • Started: 10 months ago on Sep 18, 2013

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Anthony Cuskelly started this discussion 10 months ago

Anyone got any useful beta on this thing? There's no way it's 21! I can't get my right hand off the vertical sidepull, getting up a long way left from there but not able to transfer weight across.

Andrew Clark replied 10 months ago

All I can say is that the Southwest Vic guide lists it as 24? as says it has a ridiculously hard start. climb.org.au says 24...

Anthony Cuskelly replied 10 months ago

The new Tempest guide gives it 24 as well, but I suspect it's not even soft at that...

harold ramsey replied 10 months ago

Its hard to put a grade to it, I thought 24 was reasonable. Maybe v4 into an 18. Its been 3 or 4 years so my memory is not the best, its all about bouldering a few small pockets. It feels like you almost campus up the two two finger pockets. Have to reach a long way left for the first pocket, get your right onto a pocket, (yeah hard to let go of the sidepull) and then move your left further up to a better edge. What to do with your feet I cant remember so I might not be helping much. I remeber the feet being pretty bad until you get the higher left hand and can swing your feet onto the face.

replied 10 months ago

I've updated the prinicpal grade to 24, as there seems to be a reasonable consensus.

Anthony Cuskelly replied 10 months ago

Harold, that confirms what I thought, that I was getting stuck on the sidepull and need to get off it sooner...



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