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bolting - data base
Hi I have just started bolting but have been climbing for over 20 years. I have learnt that there are many ways to go about bolting. I was wondering if there was any records of climbs and how they are bolted, with what type of bolts/ glue and life expectance. If not, it may be worth adding a space to first assent section to add this info. So people in future know when to replace bolts.
Nicky in Germany has some ideas for new features around storing extra details for bolts:
Is there anything in that discussion that we've missed or you can add to?
bolts need replacement depending on rock type and the amount of use they get.
some bolts in high traffic area will need replacement well before their life expectancy due to wear and or crux bolts being fallen on many times
good resources on bolting and glue can be found on bmtopo.com and the chockstone pages.
Do it right first time..
Hey. Yup the BM topo's guide to bolting is awesome... Ben's link may not work. The exact link is here
Za correct me if I'm wrong, but you weren't after a bolting guide, but a way to record in thecrag how a bolt or anchor was placed so that people later can see the history of maintenance of a cliff.
The ACA database had some limited features in place for this and we are working to add this. Ben / Jason if you think this is something worth us implementing or if you have any input into this we'd love to hear it.
I don't think it's much of an issue. If there's a dodgy bolt on a route it generally gets mentioned in someone's description.
The old AcA route maintaince feature was useful but I don't know how often it was acted apon.
Brendon, yes that is what I meant.
I have been recording what I have place in my own diary. An example- I placed on climb ..... 2 x 316 -U bolts - anchors, with ramset 801 glue. 6 x 316 ring bolts for the climb. 5/11/13.
So in future I know when to replace. Beside the obvious visual signs.
There are lots of types of glue and bolts that have different life spans.
It seems sensible to record what was placed and when for safety and so others know what they are climbing on and can chose.
Some people use glue I would prefer not to climb on and Dyna bolts where glue is needed.
The size and required torc needed for dyna bolts should also be added..,
I have come across loose dyna bolt when climbing and wished I had the right size spanner.
In my diary I also add size of glue in bolts, example - 10mm x 100mm, 316 rings
These are all the minimum standards for putting up or rebolting routes. Anything below this in my experience is quickly noted with future repeats.
Keeping your own records Za is a good idea but I don't personally feel it needs it's own online section.
How long do you expect your bolts to last Za??
Glue I use last about 50 years,
(that is as long as they will guarantee it for)
316 bolts should last that long as well away from the Sea.
Dyna bolts last about 20 years.
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