Public discussion This is a public discussion in Evans Crown.
z_swander replied 9 years ago.
Better than you'd think. I was there a few weeks ago, and climbed all along the Deckout Buttress. The amount of quality stars, and the popularity meter on the crag is a good guide to the state of the hardware and the amount of lichen on the rock (i.e. DMB is like a gym climb). There are also fresh chains along the terrace above DB. That being said, there are suspicious bolts/carrots on the mixed routes and the some lonely anchor carrots on top of the multis, which have a fair bit of surface rust. It might just be surficial, but I was thinking a few routes could benefit from the some fresh 316. I'm not sure what the NPS stance is on rebolting (not retro-bolting), the bad stuff and making redundant anchors. They seem pretty militant about their lichen protection, which is too bad because The Howling looks sweet. Have fun, such a picturesque location definitely deserves a revisit, and the Tarana Hotel is a great way to decompress after a day of running it out.
Paul Frothy Thomson replied 9 years ago.
The problem with Tarana, is that NPWS has specifically stated -in relation to the crag-: No new bolts or rebolting, no scrubbing anything (with particular reference to mossy overgrowth on routes), and -though I suspect its seldom adhered to- no climbing there without obtaining permission first.
Paul Frothy Thomson replied 9 years ago.
When you've ticked Retreat from Moscow and Six Days With the Toad, then you're ready for The Howling, Zack... deckout buttress and Doc Martens Boots areas are SOFT and safe compared to googleplex area.
Nick H replied 9 years ago.
I climb out there a fair bit. Is a great place. A bit of an antidote for Blue Mountains sport climbing. Bolts on average are in pretty good condition, as others said, with surface rust on the older ones (carrots). The lack of redundancy in some of the older top anchors I have found to be more concerning than the actual condition of the bolts. There are often not a lot of other options to choose from. Agree with Paul;- Deckout Buttress is very soft in comparison to the other areas.
GA A replied 7 years ago.
Has anyone got location information or heard of Garths Arete? Supposed to be in the tarana area. boulder problem, V8, cheers
Eww replied 7 years ago.
I thought Garths Arette was at fourx in mt vic but that maybe Mr Miller climbed more than one arette! There is an arette just left of the main track up there. Go and have a poke around.
GA A replied 7 years ago.
I had heard of that line as well, but I saw this... and didn't look like it was around XXXX ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QelFMPMRq2Y
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Laef Hosking started this discussion 9 years ago.
Has any one got any information about the state of the bolts at Tarana. I haven't climbed there for twenty years and was thinking of checking it out again.