Discussion: Route description

  • Started: 3 years ago on Mon 27th Jul 2015

Public discussion This is a public discussion for 17 Ethel the aardvark.

started this discussion 3 years ago.

Route description

No, as described ETA is on the left of the arĂȘte, LGS is on the right.

Dominik S replied 3 years ago.

Thanks for getting back to me. So ETA is up the red face and LGS is up the black slab (opposite sides of the arĂȘte)? Hmmm.. The grading sort of threw us off as well because we all concluded that ETA was harder than LGS. Oh well, I guess I'll need to update my sends then btw there is another climb in the cave on the far left that might not be on this guide. It's a juggy slab up to the roof of the cave. We concluded it couldn't be harder than 16 and it doesn't seem to continue anywhere. Do you know anything about it?

Tim Haasnoot replied 3 years ago.

LGS was originally put up using the slab and left around the arete, When climbing ETA it is easier to vear around right onto LGS and maybe why it seemed easier for yourself.

The route under the cave on the right is a 16, I can't remember the name. It was put up to gain access to the roof with a possible extension. So far the extension hasn't been bolted (raped down it a few times, I think it will go but prob 29?) A nice mulit pitch is further left of this, does a fun traverse back right under the roof then some nice exposure.

There is also quite a few nice long routes on the other side, past waterfall (north) of the main wall. Might be a little dirty as doesn't get much traffic. More potential in the cave over there also.

Dominik S replied 3 years ago.

Hi Tim, What grade is the multi pitch to the left of the cave?

We tried doing the second pitch of LGS but ran into both a green and brown snake within 2 meters of the belay ledge

Are the climbs past the waterfall bolted? I did also see what might be potentially easy trad 20-30m to the right of LGS which I might check out. I'll have to take a closer look to confirm next time we're there though.

Tim Haasnoot replied 3 years ago.

There are sooo many snakes there. Iv'e grabbed a few, stood on some, found one in a rope back and belayed with one next to me in a tree all day!! Mostly they are calm, so far no problems.

The climbs past the waterfall are bolted. One is 23 and the rest are easier. About 5-6 routes from memory, great view at the top out.

The trad right of LGS has been done. 3 trad climbs from memory. One is quite good, a big block got washed out of the base of it a few years ago. another has a rightward trending crack, about 17.

Smoke me a Kipper 22, is the good multi pitch route. If I get a chance I should update all these route descriptions.

The Leech Bar, down the end of the road has some good trad and about 10 sport routes. Good potential for more routes too.

Dominik S replied 3 years ago.

Haha it's good to know that the snakes are tame over there! From what we've seen the place looks great. We're gonna have to go back to check out some of these other areas though.

Have you ever been to Deliverance? Do you recommend it?

Matthew Browne replied 9 months ago.

Can confirm snakes are still there

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