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Discussion: Does anyone know anything about this climb?

  • Started: 7 years ago on Thu 23rd Jun 2016

Public discussion This is a public discussion in Right Main Wall.

Adrian Woodcraft started this discussion 7 years ago.

Does anyone know anything about this climb?

Hi!

There's an apparently new bolted route down near Crud Corner or possibly Nic Pic Dics (Right Main Wall, KP) marked BO. It doesn't seem to be in Lee's Climbing Guide, or here. Does anyone know it's name, or grade, or anything else about it? It has three ring bolts and a nice chain at the top. How long has it been there? I've noticed it only since someone recently painted "BO" at the bottom of it. Thanks.

replied 7 years ago.

BO? Never heard of a BO near those climbs before. What grade do you reckon it is?

Adrian Woodcraft replied 7 years ago.

G'day Alex. Haven't seen or heard from you for ages! Grade? Dunno. It started off about 12, then suddenly got harder on the way to the third bolt - maybe 14 or 15. I was sussing it out as a possible intro climb for newbies. It's also short - maybe 13 or 14 metres.

replied 7 years ago.

Black Orpheus VS

Ryan Siacci replied 7 years ago.

Haha good one Cris. It's Breakout, fellas. But not surprised that a trad 5 at KP hasn't gained much kudos.

Ryan Siacci replied 7 years ago.

Just to clarify, it used to be trad. There has been a bit of a bolting spree down this end of the crag relatively recently with a few new lines and a few retrobolted lines.

replied 7 years ago.

Aaahhh.... Now that is bolted I may race to tick it. Anyone wants to belay me?

Thomas Gissing replied 7 years ago.

Man up and solo Brazelli. Clipping bolts is for pansys...

Adrian Woodcraft replied 7 years ago.

Thanks Ryan. I believe you're right - and it's apparently a grade 8, but the crux sure didn't feel like an 8 the first time I climbed it!

replied 7 years ago.

I went down to have a look, Adrian, and the climb you are looking at, above BO, is the sport climb to the right, "Stonehinge". Its a grade 10. Breakout is the low angle ledgy wall between Stonehinge and that JAFKPR. I've climbed it before, the moved are scrambling, and I barely trusted the rock for my hands, let alone the gear Also, bushbash-y and broken beer bottle-y topouts for the win!

replied 7 years ago.

Tom, was this Breakout the line you struggle to lead when we did the Rocksport kids?

Thomas Gissing replied 7 years ago.

No comment...

replied 7 years ago.

This sounds like a good story

Adrian Woodcraft replied 7 years ago.

Alex, I went back there tonight for another look. After leading it I went for a bit of an explore of the apparently unclimbed section of rock to its left (between Stone Hinge and JAFKPR). The grade was pretty low but the dried lichen on the rock was so thick it crumbled under my fingers and threatened to roll them off the edges! An interesting little mini-adventure in preparation for Ruby of India - and another excursion to the south face of Beerwah! How's the study going?

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