Considering parking my wheelchair and trying a trad route (cave or NE buttress) but only have one 60 m rope. Do I need two ropes to abb off these routes. Jim
Caves: can be easily soloed. If you are not into soloing you'll need a leader to run the rope up to the belays: easy climbing/scrambling and little or no protection over the exposed parts. 60m rope to rap the route.
NEB: choss and questionable/poor pro over grade 12/14 climbing until you get to crux pitch (escapable on the left to cave 4), the rusty useless bolt ladder: grade 19/20 unprotectable slab. Double 50 is what I suggest if you HAVE to jump on this. Also: route finding can be tricky if you are new to TIbro (read comments on the logged ascents).
I would highly recommend Black Orpheus (or Orpheus) to start with (trad wise). They are easy climbing and have decent pro, allowing you to get used to TIbro rock.
Blabbermouth and Sideshow Bob (mixed trad/FHs) are also good routes.
Chris, much appreciated, being 70 and no sports climbing, till a few routes on andromeda two days ag, we were delighted to Pootle up cave route passing kids scrambling down in trainers! We Aint much cop for owt over 15, any suggestions most welcome. What a grand climbing area, cheers jim
Good for you Jim! It's a great little adventure mountain. I'd second Chris' recommendation of Black Orpheus - a really character filled day out. Just be sure to familiarise yourself with the topo and pitch descriptions.
Yes Jim, Black Orpheus.Start at the BO sign towards the right middle-end of desperation wall. Climbs grade 4 to 8 with 3 short sections grade 12 (the crux above the first ledge, the short section above the zombie tree and the chimney exit on the left). A 50m rope is sufficient if you break pitch 2 in half (good safe option regardless because there's more gear and less choss on the right side of the slab). No safe rapping past P2 unless you leave gear behind and definitely no rapping from above the chimney with a 50. Route finding is easy (I think), the description is pretty good, you'll see the chimney from the ground. Is a very steep bushwalk and has plenty of character, you'll love it.
Aye there Chris, great advice for a beardie with 60 years of trad + ice + Hims and now 6 sports (andromeda) climbs under our belts. We roped up and off Cave route, meeting folks scrambling down it in trainers!..well they rapped the top two pitches. Due to accumulated injuries I'm not up for much more than 16 these days. Any suggestions at or below 16.
Much appreciated jim
Ta for feedback, it rained steadily overnight so we will take today off having climbed (a bit) six days out of seven. BO sounds good. We are back in Brisbane Su day for a week editing our book then back here. Cheers Jim
Jim dingo started this discussion 7 years ago.
Glasshouse mountains Tibro
Considering parking my wheelchair and trying a trad route (cave or NE buttress) but only have one 60 m rope. Do I need two ropes to abb off these routes. Jim