Help

Nodes

Searching in:

Search filters:

Sort by:

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 nodes.

Node
World

Welcome to www.thecrag.com, a project to collect and distribute climbing information to the climbing community. The site was founded in 1999 by Simon Dale and Campbell Gome, two Australian climbers. In 2010 Brendan Heywood joined the team bringing new skills, ideas and energy. We are currently implementing a major redesign. Use the links on the left and in the table below to explore and add to the index. The more you and your friends use and contribute to the site, the better it becomes for all climbers.

5a Groosi Ohre
Australia

I love a sunburnt country, A land of sweeping plains,

Of ragged mountain ranges, Of droughts and flooding rains.

I love her far horizons, I love her jewel-sea,

Her beauty and her terror – The wide brown land for me!

Victoria
North West

Mt Cole

Arapiles

The most loved and known, easily accessible quality crag in the land.

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles
Bushranger Bluff

The big cave right of Ghost of Melville Is the Nick Cave

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff
Main Wall

Main Wall is the first wall you reach as you come in on the walking track.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
3 Bullet Buttress

A pleasant, low-angled buttress.

Start: Start 20m L of Melville's Cave.

9 Holdup Line

Very nice.

Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB.

14 Holdup Line Direct Finish

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

11 Stage Coach

Up via the offwidth slot then finish as for 'Long Bow'.

Start: Start just R of 'Holdup Line'.

11 Working Class Hero

Short chimney then finish as for 'Stage Coach'.

Start: Just right of SC.

10 Long Bow

The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish.

Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'.

11 Ckup

Line immediately right of Long Bow.

17 Kerfuffle

Start at crack two metres left of Ckinell but climb up grey slab on left to an easy stance directly below large thread. Straight up to middle of the two steep roofs. There's an under cling with a rattling tooth like block that is not going anywhere. Tricky gear and pumpy to place but regular gear can be found. Once over the roof follow the same line as Fracas to the top or head right to rap anchors.

16 Fracas

Start at crack line 2 metres left of Ckinell, up crack, gradually veering left into second crack, then through large guano filled pocket and jug hall through the easier section of roof above pocket. Easy climbing to top or head right to rap anchors.

18 Lost Gold

The overhung arete 1.5m left of Ckinell. Limited gear at roof and pumpy to place.

14 Ckinell

The slightly overhung corner. Beware snapping holds especially on the poorly protected start.

Start: Just L of Melville's Cave.

12 Ckinothe

Long traverse.

Start: As for 'Ckinell' to gain Melville's Cave. Step right and traverse under the overhangs all the way to 'The Ghost Of Melville'. Meander right just above second cave, then up.

25 Repo Man

Out through big roof in the main cave.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

26 Climber-Model Denialists

Mosey up to the cave via the L crack, launch out onto the lip jugs of 'Repo Man', then veer R and up on good but spaced holds past 2 FH's into the finish of 'Cricket Bats In A Box'

22 Cricket Bats in a Box

Poor pro. The right side of the cave to a sickle flake, then left.

Start: Below the R side of Melville's Cave.

9 Cave Climb

Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro.

Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'.

12 Horse Drawn

Start 5m right of Melville's Cave. Up wall and through cruxy overhang.

13 Sexless Sue

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

13 Sue's Crutchless Knickers

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

7 Little Revolver Crack

Discontinuous cracks.

Start: Start just L of 'Revolver Crack'.

6 Revolver Crack

The deep crack.

Start 20m right of Melville's Cave.

14 Hangman

Lovely rock to start, and a dramatic exit to finish.

Start: As for 'Revolver Crack' then head R up thin crack.

15 The Ghost of Melville

-ATTENTION: There is an active Bee hive on the route, take care- The major corner, facing the second cave.

Start: 3m R of 'Revolver Crack' up major corner facing second cave. Step left to finish.

12 Big Dog's Cock

Presumably this climbs just R of the corner taken by 'The Ghost Of Melville'... but the write-up doesn't say.

Start: R of 'Hangman'. Up slab, keeping right of corner to big pockets, over tricky bulge then directly up and through roof to top.

22 Red Right Hand

Bring some painkillers.

Starts in the second cave (Nick Cave) through the obvious weakness in the roof with one bolt.

22 15 Feet Of Pure Steep, Bro

Fun roof climbing, past a slightly spooky block.

Starts in Nick Cave, on the right hand side past two bolts and finishes up headwall at a sling anchor.

10 Six Wet Troopers

The least mossy line.

Start: about 3m right of 'Big Dog's Cock'

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff
Back Wall

From Main Wall follow the track around to the right.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Bushranger Bluff Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
3 Trooper

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

7 Trooper One

Crack to horizontal break, then go 2m right and up crack.

Start: 1m left of small cave on the grey wall just left of the descent gully

13 Trooper Two

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

6 Trooper Three

The crack with a hard start.

Start at the right side of the grey wall.

2 Cartridge Arete

A pleasant jug-haul arete.

Start: The arete right of the walk-down gully.

6 Cartridge Wall

The wall between 'Cartridge Arete' and 'Cartridge Chimney'

6 Cartridge Chimney

The chimney.

Start: Just R of 'Cartridge Arete'.

7 Dead Ned

A nice little line. Start up the left edge of the orange wall, then step right and proceed up the weakness on good holds.

14 Kelly Watch The Stars

The fun starting move up to the vertical finger slot directly up the wall between the grooves of Dead Ned and OC. Well protected.

15 Orange Crush

The crack.

Start: 3.5m right of CC.

6 Cobb & Co.

The steep orange corner facing L.

Start 0.5m R of OC.

10 Tullah's Pleased

Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way.

7 Tullah's Tease

Layback for 5m then step right into crack.

Start: Start 5m right of 'Cobb & Co'.

16 Rubbery Under Arms

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles
Declaration Crag Area

The prominent outcrop by the side of the road about 600m south of the camping ground.

A good area for beginners.

Emergency Location : Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area
Declaration Crag

One of the most convenient crags in the country, being about 15m from the road.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area Declaration Crag
16 Pot Boiler

Start 8m left of 'The Ferrets Are Coming', below a rock step. R up vague ramp then up.

17 Tonic

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue up to the horizontal break at 8m, then head right and up.

17 Pot Boiler Right Hand Variant

Incorrectly labelled as 'Tonic' when first put on The Crag. FA details on this alternate finish for 'Pot Boiler' are unknown.

Start as for 'Pot Boiler' but continue heading right then up gross looking crack.

21 R The Ferrets Are Coming

Once graded 17! 21 for tall people and/or topropers. Fiddly to protect.

Start 7m left of 'Craddock Crack' and head up left leaning crack before moving back right.

9 Craddock Crack

This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock.

The left-most deep crack on the roadside face.

18 Raiders of the Lost Crack

Up 3m, left across 'Craddock Crack' to freaky block on arete, then up crack 3m left of arete. The RH Variant goes up the crack on the arete at grade 18.

Start: 1m right of 'CC'.

10 Kristies Finger

Think this is the front of the little buttress immediately right of 'Craddock Crack', starting as for 'Raiders of The Lost Crack'.

2 Sunny Gully

Hard start, then easy climbing to the ledge.

A direct finish continues up the crack above this ledge at about grade 18.

8 Marshmallow Sea DS

The undercut direct start to 'Marshmallow Sea' is definitely a little harder than the original.

7 Marshmallow Sea

Move left to the sparsely protected smooth wall facing the road.

Start: As for 'Deck Gully' but move left and up, finishing past the small overhang.

2 Deck Gully

The rightmost deep gully facing the road.

20 Brit Milah

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.

Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

27 All Decked Out

This is the 2 FHs up the nice little face trending L from 'Deck Games'.

Start: As for 'Deck Games'.

25 Deck Games

Very appealing rock.

Start: Under the nice bulgy orange buttress closest to the road and start up the left leaning crack only to break right almost immediately.

26 New Wave Winos

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.

24 Scorpio

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).

23 Sagittarian

Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.

21 Sagittarian Variant Start

Start as for Slip Knot and head up left to the bolt on Sagittarian. Easier and better than the original.

22 New Wave Wanks

Start up 'Slip Knot', then left across 'Sagittarian' to the arete, and a hard move up R to jugs.

19 R Slip Knot

Start 1m right of 'Sagittarian' and up poorly protected wall just right of the bolts.

7 Taya

Good beginner's lead.

Start just left of the plaque and right of the small overhang. Climb the wall between 'Hammer' and 'Slip Knot'.

4 Hammer

Great beginner's route.

Start as for 'Sickle' and go up this a little way then step left to short ramp then up shallow corner. Climbing it direct is around grade 8, but has no protection.

9 Sickle

Impossible to get lost on.

Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top.

16 R Marmot's Mall

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

20 R Little Thor

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

23 Little Thor Direct Finish

After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.

29 Steps Ahead

Sustained crimpiness up microscopic edges.

Fixed hangers up beautiful wall 3m R of 'Little Thor'.

26 Hit the Deck

Originally climbed by Claw with a rest and named "Wild Drugs and Crazy Sex".

As for 'Look Sharp' to first bolt, then move left and up the wall past more bolts.

24 Look Sharp

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

22 A New Toy

Bouldery crux. Up crack 2m left of 'Problematic' to bulge and bolt. Onwards.

24 Remembrance Day

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.

Start: as for 'Problematic'.

22 Problematic

The short bulging crack on the right-hand side of the north-west-facing sheer orange wall.

17 Hog Jowls

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Up to ledge, traverse L to corner.

13 Sir George

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

5 The Pleb

The chimney on the south-west side of the outcrop.

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area
Brain Death Boulder

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Declaration Crag Area

Australia Victoria North West Arapiles Declaration Crag Area Brain Death Boulder
V0 V0 problem on left

Sit start

V1 V1 Problem (a)

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V3 Traverse

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V4 V4 Problem

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V3 V3 pocket problem

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V1 V1 Problem (b)

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V0 V0 Juggy Arete

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V0- V0 Problem

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

23 Brain Death

Follow the wide crack the whole way up.

V3 Brain Death - Piker's Variant

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V3 L

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

V2 S

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 1,000 nodes.