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2 5.9
3 5.9
4 5.8
6 5.7
7 5.8
8 5.10b
9 5.9
10 5.10b
11 5.10b
12 5.8

This is, probably, the classic long, easy, multi-pitch climb at El Potrero Chico. The climbing is never sustained at harder than 5.9, and the hardest section of 5.10b can be avoided by going up 5.7 jugs slightly off route. And it finishes at a lovely summit, often wind blown, with great views and a lone palm tree.

There is, also, a handy name plate riveted to the rock at the start of this climb, making it easy to find.

  1. (5.9) Find the name plate, and follow the bolts upwards.

  2. (5.9) More bolts.

  3. (5.9) More bolts to follow.

  4. (5.8) Traverse leftwards (up is 5.11), around the corner, then upwards again.

  5. (3rd class) Follow the fixed rope then right. Do not climb past 5th pitch unless committed to finishing -- rapping the upper pitches will endanger any climbers that might be below.

  6. (5.7) Wander up the gentle slab until you (finally) spot a bolt.

  7. (5.7) Keep going up the ramp.

  8. (5.10a) Bolts.

  9. (5.9) Bolts.

  10. (5.10a) Bolts.

  11. (5.10b, 5.9+ variation) Bolts.

  12. 5.8 Bolts.

Descent: descend the fixed rope to the first rappel anchor. Do 5 rappels off the back side, watching for guiding arrows. You will be rappelling over a small ravine to a ridge, then down into the Los Lobos canyon. Walk down the canyon.

Ethic: inherited from Nuevo León

Please don´t litter, some crags like LaHuasteca are a little farbolted, but thats how they were setted, please avoid adding bolts. Rebolting efforts are much apreciated, just sens a heads up to the local climbing comunity for safety reasons.


Route History:

  • First Ascent: Ed Wright, Craig McCrudden & Ismael Garza - 2000


Located in Estrellas North Wall approx:
Lat/Long: 25.950047,-100.475274

Route Grade Citations

5.10b Community registered grade
Frank Madden
5.9, 5.9, 5.9, 5.11a( or 5.8), 3rd class, 5.5, 5.6, 5.10, 5.9, 5.10, 5.10, 5.7
12 Pitches (5.9,5.9,5.9,5.8,3rd class, 5.7,5.8,5.10b,5.9+,5.10b,5.10b,5.8)(S) Zorba Parer
12 Pitches (5.9,5.9,5.9 [5.11b],5.11a[5.8],3rd class, 5.7,5.7,5.10b,5.9+,5.10b,5.10b,5.8)(S) private
5.9 Chris Beric

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 80%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

crux hard incredible super beautiful fun cool nice great lovely awesome easy rest interesting jugs traverse

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