- Style:
- Height: 60m
- Bolts: 8
- Pitches: 2
- Ascents: 16
Located in Taipan Wall
Download Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre as:
PDF
Custom PDF
- Description:© (secretary)
-
Suffocatingly powerful. Can be led as one giant pitch.
Start: Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of 'World Party'.
- 18m (21) Not a great pitch. Expanding flake (FH), then traverse left across break (FH) and up slab to chain belay (15m rap). A few medium-large cams are useful.
- 35m (28) Straight up (2 FHs) to stance on the left, then rightwards out bulge with sustained endurance climbing up to big roof. Over 2 roofs into water runnel above (2 FHs), then head off left to the 'World Party' anchors. Most leaders clean it themselves by reversing, back-jumping and re-threading their way back down the pitch (hence all the unsightly bail biners), the only alternative is to find some idiot to second you then rap off (48m). All these shenanigans will be obviated once a proper anchor is placed directly above the 2nd pitch (which HB has reportedly okayed - any volunteers?).
Route History:
First Ascent: Malcolm Matheson & Simon Mentz, 1993
Location:
-
Located in Taipan Wall approx:
Long/Lat: 142.385454,-36.896140
Some content has been provided under license from:
- © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Route Grade Citations
| 27 | The North Grampians Update |
| 27 |
|
| 28 | Principal |
| 28 |
|
| 28 |
|
| 28 *** |
|
Route quality
Lead Styles
Comments keywords
crux
amazing
super
roof


28

Anaconda
5 weeks ago
(rated as classic)
did all moves, mostly in full sun. ...
28

Anaconda
1 years ago
(rated as mega classic)
One of my all time favorites! 3rd go in a day. ...
28

Anaconda
4 years ago
Stumped by the crux... bloody slabs ...
28

Anaconda
5 years ago
(rated as mega classic)
3rd shot. Linked both pitches together cleanly into massive 40m+ pitch! Palming the roof is the key to the crux for weakboys like me. ...
28

Anaconda
5 years ago
(rated as mega classic)
Amazing 45m pitch. What a finish! ...
28

Anaconda
6 years ago
(rated as classic)
Five days on, surprised I managed this. 3rd shot. ...
28

Anaconda
6 years ago
(rated as classic)
This was SUPER, after the crux slopers, you could come off anywhere on your way to the top! Love the cut loose thru the rooflet. [3] ...
28

Anaconda
6 years ago
(rated as classic)
Just feeling the moves out, looked Stella and it is! [2] ...