Routes as trad in Central Ontario

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Showing all 29 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Greater Sudbury Cherry Rock (Original)
5.5 Sam and Frodo go walking

Climb the easy angled face with the jagged crack in it up to ledges, go right or left around the small roof, then up to the bolts at the top left.

Trad 15m
5.9 Sam and Frodo go hiking

A variant start to "Sam and Frodo go walking", start on the crack around the corner to the right, pull up to the horizontal and (hand) traverse right to join the main route, and of course, not dodge the small roof.

Trad 15m
5.4 The Shire

Climb the cracked slabs near the center of the cliff, angling up to the right.

Trad 20m
5.9 Cirith Ungol

Climb the corner up onto the ledge, then follow the corner upwards.

Trad 20m
5.8 Minas Tirith

Start on the left-most crack, eventually switching to another crack further left, up to the ledge 20m up, then up a final crack the last 5m to the (bolted) anchors. (Not a good TR from the anchors, as they are right of most of the route.)

Trad 25m
5.9 Minas Anor

Start on the left crack then instead of going left (for Minas Tirith) follow the central crack up to the anchor.

Trad 25m
5.8 Minas Morgul

Start up the crack on the right, and continue up the crack system to the top anchors (shared with "Minas Tirith"). As this climb is more directly below the anchors, it is a more comfortable top-rope.

Trad 25m
5.6 Isengard

At the far right of main cliff, just left of the obvious large detached block, climb the slabs.

Trad 23m
Greater Sudbury Echo Crag
5.10b Agent Ornge

The first route on the cliff, and a must-climb. Named for local climber Marco Foladore who spotted the cliff while flying for Ornge.

Climbs the obvious, clean dihedral.

Gear to 3".

FA: Dave & Kielyn Marrone

Trad 14m
5.10d Little Miss

Climbs the next obvious dihedral, 10m to the right of Agent Ornge. Named after Kielyn "Little Miss" Marrone for her patient belays on this project.

Start up an awkward off-width to a ledge; continue up the corner with lots of stemming opportunities before the final roof crux. Gear to 1", RPs

FA: Dave Marrone

Trad 16m
5.7 Hazlenut

One of the first two routes on the upper deck.

Climbs the obvious offwidth.

FA: Chris Lill & Kielyn Marrone

Trad 5m
Madawaska Highlands Eagle's Nest Main Cliff
5.10c Dave's Route

Starts just right of the large, black chimney known as the Dirty Harry ice climb were there is a ledge 3m up. P1 (20m, 10b/c) Climb the face to a bolt, continue on the left leaning crack that cuts the side of the dirty harry gully (mid way up) to a ledge with anchors shared with Rob's Route. P2 (15m, 5.8) Climb the face past a bolt and one piton near the top. Finish at the bolt anchors by a large pine tree.

FA: Rob Chisnall, 1992

Mixed 35m, 2, 2
5.10c Unknown (Dave's Route Direct)

Start as per Dave's Route. Follow the left leaning crack to a finger crack that splits through the bulge, directly up to the ledge and anchor. One of the finest finger cracks of it's grade in the area.

Mixed 25m, 1
5.9 Rob's Route

Start just to the right of Dave's Route. Climb up a flaring finger crack that heads straight up then trends to the right side of a large bulge, to a ledge with an anchor shared by Dave's Route.

FA: Rob Chisnall, 1988

Trad 20m
5.8 Balk and Chalk
1 5.7
2 5.8

Start 4m right of Dude, I Think She is the King. P1 (20m, 5,7) Climb the obvious weakness on gear trending left past shrubs to a corner with a pin in it. Climb above the leaning cedar to a bolted belay. P2 (20m, 5.8) Continue up, past a pin and bolt, following a nice hand crack through a small bulge, past another bolt and fist crack to a bolted belay.

FA: G. Smith, R. Smith & Rob Chisnall, 1984

Mixed 40m, 2, 2
5.8 Unknown 1

Start as for Balk and Chalk but climb straight up on big holds through a well protected right facing crack onto easier slab above. Head straight up to FIXE rings at the anchor. Gear to 4"

FA: Rob Chisnall & E. Tsai, 2009

Trad 25m
5.5 Lichen It

Start 7m right of The Agony of De-feet. P1: Climb up a short slab past 2 bolts to a large dirty ledge. Continue past 2 more bolts moving right, then follow the right leaning hand/fingers crack to an anchor (or continue up left for 7m to link up with the anchor for Father's Day Slab) (5.5, 25m). P2: Continue straight up past 2 bolts, then pick your line leading up through the right side of the roof to anchors. (5.5-5.8, 25m)

FA: Kieran Andrews & Dee Hutchison, 2000

Mixed 50m, 2, 4
Unknown 5

Scramble up a gully with a fixed line 5m right of Lichen It to a ledge. Climb up past 2 bolts, plugging excellent gear along the way, to the anchors for P1 of Lichen It.

Mixed 15m, 2
5.9 Jonny Be Good

Climb a short, slightly overhanging left facing corner, up the face to the right side of a large flake under a roof. With style traverse the flake left using underclings to a handcrack in the roof. Climb through the roof and up to a large tree with slings on it. Gear to 3". Rappel off.

Trad 25m
5.6 Perspective
1 5.6
2 5.5

The prominent hand crack up the buttress. Gear to 4". P1: Follow the right of two crack systems (the offwidth) up and through a blocky overhang (crux), continuing up to a small ledge and anchor (5.6, 25m); P2: Either climb straight up from the belay (harder) or traverse right around a large block and up a hand crack to a large ledge with Metolius rap hangers (5.5, 15m). Rappel.

Trad 40m, 2
5.10a Spine of the Dragon

Start 3m right of Unknown 7, up a rock step and around the corner. Climb the right leaning dihedral to a bulge with a finger crack through it, around a small roof to anchors.

Trad 25m
5.8 Stairway to Heaven

Located 10m right of Spine of the Dragon. P1: Start in a corner facing left and climb the steep flaring groove to a ledge with a tree. Climb up a groove and traverse right across a cracked slab to a second tree and anchor. Often wet. (5.8, 15m); P2: Climb the offwidth crack and continue up the large easier flake to an anchor (5.8, 35m). Rappel. Bring doubles of large gear to 6".

Trad 50m, 2
5.11b Fingerstinger

One of the finest finger cracks in Ontario. P1: Climb the first pitch of Stairway (5.8, 15m); P2: Traverse left and climb up and left along a diagonal crack until you are at the roof below the headwall crack. Layback and stem strenuously over the roof and climb the finger crack to an anchor (5.11b, 20m). Double rope rappel or climb up to the top (5.4, 15m)

FFA: Peter Reilly, 1986

FA: David Smart, 1986

Trad 50m, 2
5.10d Unknown 9

Just right of Stairway to Heaven. Climb up and left to a bolt, then up past another bolt to a large ledge with anchors

Mixed 10m, 2
5.8 Plumber's Crack

Start 5m right of Unknown 9 at the chimney-like corner. P1: Climb up past a piton and bolt to a large ledge, past the anchor for Unknown 9, up face to another ledge with large tree and anchor for Stairway (5.8, 15m); P2: Climb up the thin crack to a small roof, through the finger crack in the roof and into larger crack leading to the top of Stairway (5.8, 35m). Rappel.

Trad 50m, 2
Unknown 10

Starting from a ledge 3m up just right of Plumber's Crack is a bolted face leading to an anchor.

Mixed 3
5.6 Santa Claus

This route is located at the south end of the crag. Start in an offwidth and fight your way up an awkward hanging chimney and dihedral facing left. Exit up large detached flakes and a short headwall.

5.5 Ivy League

Right of Santa Claus. A very dirty rock route, named for the poison ivy on the route.

FA: Norbert Kartner & Al Melkic, 1975

5.5 Black Book

Right of Ivy League. Take a gully in an open book past an overhanging lip to a ledge. Climb the rock gully past a large pine tree to the right.

FA: Norbert Kartner & Al Melkic, 1975


Showing all 29 routes.