Routes as sport in Waihoo

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

4m left of Yosemite Action Hero. Very punchy through rooflet.

Stick clip ring and climb bouldery start to Beached

Start as for FSA then veer right and up thin slab to anchors on ledge

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

The thin face and arete was a long-standing project. Fingery and technical. A long reach and a cold day may make it feel easier.

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip. Anchor has permadraws on it to make cleaning a little easier

Fun face route.

wall just left of offwidth

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

The prominent prow feature in the centre of the first part of the cave. Turn the hard roof down low to a rest, then follow overhung prow and roof above to lower offs. Can be done in all but the heaviest of rain. Six ring bolts and double ring lower offs.

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

Starts before the main white wall.

Line right of Magic Noodle. Holes drilled but bolts not in yet

Start as for MG head right over bulge to anchors under roof (anchor not yet installed)

Hard start off ledge then up past scoop and steepening finish. Shares Anchors with FF.

Straight up middle of white wall. Fun moves on great stone.

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

Start as for OS for 2 bolts then head right up steepening wall. Longer draw on 4th bolt helps reduce drag, Finish as for white rabbit. An easier way to get on the finishing moves which are classic.

Climb the Overhung feature on left side of wall.

A bouldery direct start to ‘The Thunderbolt Kid’. A tenuous move off the floor (crux) gains the left hand crimp, then pop to the pocket. Continue into TTK.

Perseus start into Thunder Vision, packs a bit more punch than the original.

Left tending line of pockets on the left side of roof.

Start as for TTK but at 3rd Bolt head right past one more FH and 1 ring then head back left to share anchor on TTK.

Start on obvious jug above the end of the large boulder. Thug your way past the steep, blank barrier to rejoin Thunder vision at it's crux.

Open Project. Crush it if you can

Want to know what the moves on a 27 feel like? Well you can try just about all of the hard moves right of the big boulder! Starts as for Event Horizon but heads right over the boulder. Needs a few more bolts to get to the lip of the cave. Absolute sickness!

Up flake then out the amazing horizontal feature via a very blank section. Not operational yet as some of the bolts need sorting out.

Might be 6m of bliss or extended to hard territory above

Start as for arty project, traverse right on hangers then up steep wall tending rightish. Don't forget to breath!

Start as for Pulmonary Vacuum but break right after first bulge continuing to the anchors on Isometrics via hard block.

How many (space themed) routes can we fit in here? A worthwhile and pumpy addition. Start on Arty's project and cruise all the way over to Red Dwarf to finish as for that route.

Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.

On right side of wall and climbs steep overhung arete.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

Climbs the Slabby flake on left side of the wall. fun moves and rock

Bring your technique and finger tips for this great wall climb. Fantastic unlikely moves up the middle of this fun little face.

Amazing rock and Amazing moves on this hard wall route.

Up slab and around right side of tree and steeper rock to anchors on ledge. Good varied climbing with a bit of loose rock up high.

The big roof at the left end of the crag is steep and powerful. Stick-clip the first bolt(s) then boulder up to the roof, out the flake, and round the lip. Up headwall more easily to chains. Classic!

Punchy wall and steep finish on left of orange wall.

Funky climbing up the big chimney on the left of the crag.

5M right of Chim Chim Cher-oo. Up the white streak, fun bouldery crux, then up slab left of tree to anchors.

Some meters east of OSS. Start as per Camo Corner. At first ledge traverse left under tree and around corner where a few more moves will take you to the main arete. Step left around the corner onto the next face to clip two rings before making a mantle finish. Rap rings are a metre to the right. Belay your buddy from here and rap off if you like your rope.

Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left.

Straight up the obvious white streak

left wall on the face. Tricky start

straight up face to finish through rooflet

A nice longish adventure through rooflet and up fused seam

Punchy wall route to finish under roof

Start as for Criminal but traverse right to ledge then wander up face and arete to anchors

Climbs the obvious overhanging arete

Start as for Sinisterhood then left and up middle of the face

The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.

Shady corner after Sinisterhood. Small roof to clean wall with reachy crux at the top