Routes as aid in Africa

From the meeting spot, walk about 100m upstream until a break in the pipe is reached, just below 'Zimbabwe Face'. 20m above this, on the true right, there is a steep gully up which one can scramble to reach the top. Just upstream of this again, there is a small amphitheatre, with a small cave at ground level. Scramble up 10m to the start of the open slabs. In the corner on the right, there is a continuously overhanging corner. Left of the corner, there is a slightly on-angle slab, with two steps of roofs. The route takes the obvious crack line through these roofs.

1. 30m A1 There is a convenient ledge to belay from, belay in the crack on the right-hand end of the ledge, but start climbing 3m left of this. Easy nutting and solid hooking up the slab, until a sketchy free move finds one on a narrow, glassy, sloping foot-ledge just below the first roof. A solid cam in the lip, followed by a few hook moves brings one to the second roof. An awkward move onto a broad ledge is the end of the aiding, and easy free follows straight up to a huge slab-ledge, with superb pro.

2. 25m 14 Follow the slab above the ledge to the trees and blocks at the top.

Notes:

1. Descend by abseiling the second pitch, then scrambling easily left into the gully mentioned earlier, and thence to the bottom.

2. A short, fat "universal" or "stake" piton would be useful on the initial slab on the first pitch to provide protection for the hook moves.

On the opposite side of the kloof to the 'Punchline' buttress is a smooth pink slightly overhanging face, which faces downstream. The climb goes up the crack line in this face. Scramble 5m up to a large ledge with a deep chimney at the back of it.

1. 35m 19,A2 Climb the groove in the middle of the overhanging pink face on polished rock to a small overhang 8m up. Move right and climb the crack for 3m using one aid point to an off-balance stance. Continue up the crack for 8m using aid and climb the final 3m of the face to a small ledge. Traverse left along the ledge for 5m and move around the corner. Climb the face above for 8m before traversing right 5m and moving down to a good ledge.

2. 25m 15 Climb a series of steep corners above to a large ledge 10m up. Continue up the easy corner on the right to the top.

The climb starts on the opposite side of the huge boulder marking the start of THE LESSON. It is on the true right hand side of the kloof, at the same level as KLOOF DESCENT.

1. 22m 17,A0 Start up a smooth open book recess to the left of a large tree. Several tricky moves up the fault above lead to a blank wall about 20m up. Using a small nut for aid, move up until able to do an awkward mantleshelf on to a tiny stance.

2. 30m 15 Directly above the stance is a wedge of rock forming a small overhang. Climb over the overhang before moving to the right around the corner. Move up and right via a tricky mantleshelf to a large ledge. To the right is a large loose overhanging recess; avoid this by moving left and up to a tree below an overhang. From the tree, step left until able to climb up easily over some stacked blocks to a large platform.

3. 20m 10 Climb up the crack in the face above. Follow the easiest line to the top.

An aid route that takes an unobvious line through the large, blocky overhangs. It is doubtful whether this route has had a second ascent. Start five metres to the right of Gates of Delirium. Break through several routes, taking a fairly direct line to the top.

or 25 R free

Insane roof cracks...

Pitches info:

1. 43m (13 bolts)

2. 42m (11 bolts)

3. 42m (7 bolts)

4. 58m (9 bolts)

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Tremblements hilarants

Climbing notes:

75% of the route is overhanging!

Abseil notes:

Abseil via route. Must leave pitches 3 -> 7 fixed.

Walk down the small Karambony corridor.

Recommended equipment:

• 5 rurps
• 15 beaks
• 20+ knife-blades and 3 or 4 1/2, 5/8 (sawed off 1/2)
• 30+ copperheads and hooks
• 3 small cams/aliens
• 2 medium cams
• 1 #3, #4 cams
• nuts
• 2x 60m ropes

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Sakai

• CampCatta - Sakay

Abseil notes:

Abseil via route or hike down the Karambony trail.

Read more about abseiling on CampCatta page (link below).

Recommended equipment:

Read more about it on CampCatta page (link below).

Route diagram:

• AILEDESCIMES - Fantasia

• CampCatta - Fantasia