Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Watagans Mt Sugarloaf Hollow promises | |||||
V3 | ★★ Have a go, get a go | 3m | |||
Watagans Mt Sugarloaf The Giant's Head | |||||
V2 | Earworm
Sit start. Using the jugs inside the 'cave' work your body into the cave and up. FA: Philly T | 2m | |||
V2 | Cheeky cheek
Between 'picking the nose' and 'earworm'. Standing start using small ridges. FA: Philly T | 2m | |||
Port Stephens Fisherman's Bay | |||||
14 | Down Climb
| 5m | |||
17 | ★ Wet Pants
FA: Jason Piper | 5m | |||
16 | ★ Salty Lips
FA: Jason Piper | 5m | |||
5 | ★ Easy Outs
Easy down climb or exit to/from the island. | 4m | |||
8 | ★★ Show Off
Off the small ledge. FA: Tim Haasnoot | 4m | |||
18 | ★ High-n-Dry
Boulder problem off on the island up the middle of the face. No water landing!! FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2009 | 5m | |||
18 | ★★ All Hands On Deck
The right arete, nice committing moves. FA: Tim Haasnoot, 2009 | 5m | |||
Port Stephens Pacific Street Boulders | |||||
V0- | ★★ Couldn't Wait
Left most climb in the shorter wall section. Starting on centre pocket and following the large crack up to the left. Beware the cactus. FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ The Boy Who Lived
Starting as for CW, following the crack up to the right instead. FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ Cracking Up
1m right of TBWL, follow the vertical crack up. FA: Joey Smith & Fiona Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Diaganelly
1m right of CU in the corner. Starting on diagonal crack, no using the obvious ledge for feet, fun moves in corner to top. FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Don't Flake Out
The face to the right of Diaganelly. Start near the corner and move up to the right, beware of flaky holds around the first move, all holds okay to the top after that. FA: Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Nobody Nose
The arété to the right of DFO. Tricky start to some thin pinches and side pulls to fight your way up to the comfortable edge. FA: Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 4m | |||
Slabby Seconds
The flat face around to the right of NN. PROJECT: no route completed yet, please feel free to climb and message with details and assigned grade if you are FA here. Thin sharp crimps and pinches with small toe holds with some mono pockets. | 4m | ||||
V2 | ★★ Moss Butt
The corner to the right of SS. Nice start setup for hands and feet. Pocket/edge on the right and compress with left, bring right foot up and go for the top. No using comfortable edge to the right. FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ More Like Vee Fun
1m right of MB. Using same pocket as for MB but to the right of it. Up to the comfortable ledges, moving right to top out. A little exposure near the top for those starting out due to fall zone. FA: Joey Smith & Fiona Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Foot Spa
Tricky setup, water pools around base so your feet will end up in it if you slip and don't want your mats sitting in the water. Muscly climb up and over short arété | 3m | |||
V0- | ★★ Say Crack Again
The face around to the right from FS. Great beginner crack climb. FA: Fiona Smith & Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Ho Ho Ho
The deep corner chimney to the right of SCA. Fun, easy wedge moves to shimmy your way up and out. FA: Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ More Please
The arété to the right of HHH. Tricky for the feet to start on tiny impressions, wide pinch the arete with your left hand, right hand on small ledge, commit up to sloper with your right, bear down to bump left hand up and work your way over the top. FA: Joey Smith, 28 Mar 2021 | 4m | |||
★★ Polly Pocket Wall
PROJECT WALL: first wall that you come to when you walk in. Feel free to send your topo/grade info through. Small, sharp pinches/crimps with some equally sharp mono pockets on a vertical face. | 4m | ||||
Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley ampitheatre Short wall | |||||
V0 | Umbrella
Shallow crack at Right hand end of wall. | 3m | |||
Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley ampitheatre Tiger wall | |||||
VB | Downclimb One
Easier way to top on jugs | 4m | |||
Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley ampitheatre Black wall | |||||
VB | Chimney
Easier access left hand end of wall up squeeze chimney | 4m | |||
V0 | Princess Tilde
The arete to mantle. Finish straight up of head up ramp to right | 5m | |||
V1 | Kingsman
Overhanging corner at right end of wall just left of down climb | 4m | |||
Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley main | |||||
The King and I
Left end of easy wall, often has water below. | |||||
V1 | ★★ Prince Harry
Crack in the middle of left wall | 5m | |||
V0 | ★★ Prince William
| 5m | |||
V0 | Washed Out
Starting at the small ledge, up the easy cracks to top out. | 5m | |||
V1 | Kate Middleton
Traverse the left wall | 8m | |||
V2 | Prince Charles
Step off the ledge then straight up left of the prominent crack. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Kingsley's Crack
The best line here. The main hand/finger crack on the back left corner. | 5m | |||
V1 | Chimrack
The corner chimney | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Mr Beasley
Start on the arete to finish on a tough move. Set: Jason Piper | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★ Mr Teezeme
Sit start 1m right of the arete, tough move just before top out. | 6m | |||
V4 | ★ Mr Tareme
The offwidth in the middle to a tough finish. FA: Jason Piper | 5m | |||
V3 | Face Of Things
Thin wall taking care of the ledge. | 6m | |||
V1 | Full A Crack
Rightward trending crack to finish in the easy groove. FA: Tim Haasnoot | ||||
V0 | ★ Flakey
Up the thin flake. FA: Tim Haasnoot | 4m | |||
V2 | Vain Face
Thin face using pocket out right, | ||||
V1 | Crab Trap
Start in the deep chasm, often full of crabs! | ||||
V2 | Slab Pill
Squeeze the block to a committing finish. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Kingsley's Left Cap
walk up slab and top out left of cap. | 4m | |||
V3 | Kingsley's Cap
Easy slab to mantle through rooflet. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ The King of Kingsley
Sit start. Left side of Where's My Lifeguard arête. Stay off crack and ramp to the left to get the grade Set: Drew Henman FA: Drew Henman, 3 Dec 2017 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Where's My Lifeguard
Solid flakes up the right of the arete. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Any Takers?
Weakness left of The Thin Red Line. Reach high to undercling and pinch, go to perfect pocket directly above, and then swing up and left to side-pull. FA: Drew Henman Set: Drew Henman, 3 Dec 2017 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ The Thin Red Line
Up the red streak in the rock. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Resin Erection
At the weird rock, through the flake systems. | 4m | |||
V0 | Wave Back
Easy slab | ||||
V0 | Puddles Of Fun
The last problem before the access out of area. | 3m | |||
Port Stephens Kingsley Beach Kingsley east | |||||
V1 | Egciting
Up face right of arete | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★★ Eggcelent
| 3m | |||
V1 | Eggstatic
Closed book corner | 3m | |||
V0 | Omlette
Arete with v alcove | 3m | |||
V0 | Fried
Corner | 3m | |||
V0 | Scrambled
Inset chimney | ||||
V2 | Eggxit on the right
| 4m | |||
V2 | Easy over eggs
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Walking on eggs
| 4m | |||
V3 | Poached
Traverse right from arete. Easy start and finish. | 10m | |||
V1 | 5
| ||||
V0 | 6
| ||||
V0 | 6a
Corner | 3m | |||
V0 | ★★ 7
| ||||
V0 | 8
| ||||
V0 | 9
| ||||
V0 | ★★ 10
| ||||
Port Stephens Guide Wall | |||||
VB | Pigface
Left end of slab sector closest to road.The arete just right of corner with pigface growing down it. | 4m | |||
V0 | Flaky
Slab sector 1m right of left arete | 4m | |||
V0 | Skaty corner
Corner at right end of slab | 3m | |||
V1 | Flake
The face just right of the corner facing the road, contrived to stay of the easy step up | ||||
V2 | ★ Foamballs
SS under low roof above inlet and mantle | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Smiles
The left of the pillars on upper level. Left arete, mostly climbing on pockets | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Tri-fin
The right side of the left pillar on fins | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Offwidth
Between pillars, keeping away fro aretes. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Fin enough
The right arete of the right pillar up fins | 5m | |||
V0 | Smiley corner
Corner on right of pillars | 5m | |||
V2 | Tic tock
The wall 1m right of the pillars on small pockets. Try to avoid straying into climb to right | 4m | |||
V1 | Fluting
The fluted crack in the middle of wall | 4m | |||
V0 | Marginalise
Right hand end of wall before it shortens | ||||
V1 | Swiss cheese traverse
Circumnavigate the pocketed boulder clockwise starting on the easy wall near Marginalise | 5m | |||
V0 | Havarti
Sit start on oceanfacing side of pocketed cube and up diagonal. | 2m | |||
V2 | Edam
SS at left end of long pocketed boulder and up overhanging arete | 2m | |||
V0 | Edam traverse
Traverse L to R along boulder without using top | 3m | |||
Port Stephens Scout Wall Beginner Wall | |||||
V2 | ★ Sunset Session
Left side of the overhang on the left of the wall. From a crouch on the horn, up the left face. | 3m | |||
Port Stephens Scout Wall | |||||
V3 | ★★ Scout's Honour
Square block on ledge. Stand start on arete and sharp crimp. Head up the arete to top out. FA: Jack Folkes, 1 Mar 2020 | 3m | |||
Port Stephens The Docks The Tower Blocks | |||||
V0 | ★ Elevator Shaft
The easy crack in the corner. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Thermite
The nice exposed left arete. | 5m | |||
V4 | Inferno
The arete right of Thermite | 3m | |||
V2 | Fire Escape
Face with thin crack, staying out of corner to the right | 3m | |||
V0 | Emergency Exit
| 3m | |||
V0- | Sears tower
Just right of corner into vague crack | 3m | |||
V0 | The shard
Middle of smaller wall | 2m | |||
VB | Burn Khalifa
Easy route on right of wall | ||||
Routes start on Tower 2
The next routes are on tower block 2 which is at right angles and closer to the water |