Routes as sport in Kaputar

Climb broken rock resting against cliff 2m R of the block that Harlequin starts on to the start of the route. Up Black groove to chain belay

Start as for Wasted Years, initialled. Then up grey arête to the left of that route. Awful rock past the first 2 bolts that improves with height. Finished at chain belay in crack to the left of arête.

Right of WY, start off boulder, done originally pulling on aid bolt to overcome undercut buttress. Step left and up wall direct. Was 21 M0, now free. Chain belay with single carabiner.

Start just left of cave where track meets cliff. Up line of bolts heading left then up groove to chain anchors as for BO.

The bolted face left of Freudian Slip.

1. 30m (23) Climb orange wall on good in-cuts past an area of friable rock (was done at 21 with 2 aid bolts) and go up left on grey rock to belay ledge and rap chains. This is a sport pitch.

2. 20m (19) Step right into Freudian Slip and follow main crack then left groove at top to chains. Trad gear to 2”.

Apparently bolted but never climbed by Peter Wehr. Now readily accessed by Climbing AIDL, making a great second pitch, or rap in off bolts above GOW.

All bolts to chains though a rack to # 4 will help. P1 Up friable rock to main groove, up this for a few moves then follow bolts left to arête and ledge belay as for STTBL. P2 follow arête then move right around large block to finish up overhanging crack. Trad and tree belay. Very chossy. The name gives it away. Beware.

Start as for Rotten Scoundrel, 2m R of LIS, climb over loose roof, into orange groove then head right to ledge, then straight up superb wall to anchor. Rest taken on final bolt on FA

Undercut start just left of trimmed dead tree which marks Inconsequential. Steeply up to climb arête, sharing bolts and anchors with Inconsequential

Start by climbing dead trimmed tree leaning against cliff then step left to bolt and up face and arête

Start as for DF but step right to arête. Continue up black face past many bolts before veering right to arête at top. Chains.

Immediately r of MTLG, climb bolted arête and face above in 2 pitches. Second pitch has red painted bolts

Climb the arête right of Orgasmatron on bolts to chains up an interesting fin up high. The first 6 m are breccia/ choss so to avoid killing belayer stick clip second FH and aid your way through to the start of decent rock. This route is quite run out through easy bits, a light rack including wires can be useful. The route finishes at the top of a pillar, not the top of the cliff.

Ring bolted route 4 m right of where track meets wall. Choss to roof then up face passing spaced large ring bolts. Chains to left after topping out. Some trad gear could be placed in horizontals, but that wouldn't help the runouts that much.

Start down, right of Revival. Follow bolts up yellow rock through overlap just left of arête to chains

Starts on top of pointed boulder and heads to chain belay after surmounting large block, going up its right side.

Start on top of knobbly ramp 10 m left of DOS. Head left across wall then up face. An aid bolt just before crack up high helps get into crack. A #3 cam can be helpful above last bolt. Chain belay. Would probably go free at 25.

The left of 2 seams in an alcove with orange rock ."22" chiselled at base. Head out onto arête when out of groove, then back right on face to shared anchor with the 23.

The right of the seams in the orange alcove. Up steeply then right onto face and back left over small roof to shared anchors. "23" chiselled at base.

Climb up pedestal and ascend knobbly bulge then right on grey rock

Up friable rock trending left to corner and onto arete then cracks and blocks to anchor on ledge

Immediately left of 'Patient Scruff'. Bolts through short roof to anchor on ledge

Up the arete.

Up the left side of the arete.

Start: The arete left of 'Mis Led'

Looks like this partially retro-bolts the top half of 'Morning Glory'.

Start: Just to the right of 'Morning Glory'.

Follow bolts, stepping weirdly left then up and back right before a final thrutch through vegetation to DBB.

The first sport route on the east face just to the left of OoEF. Start up face just right of column and wide crack where it meets cliff. Angle up face going right, then up to shared anchors with 'Opening on the Eastern Front'. Camouflage black 8mm expansion bolts and hangers. Was originally done with one point of aid, but this has been eliminated.

10m L of 'Wondrous Beauty'. Sustained steep face climbing. Trends right and steps right around arête at top. Shares chains with WB.

Left of ES up open book seam, hangers removed, studs remain, a work in progress

10 m left of ES, up rib of rock aiming for corner and roof. Move right under roof to semi hanging belay at 30 m or continue to top. Belay at 2 FHs. Cannot abseil from these, abseil possible over SPE with care.

50m left of start of east face. At the toe of the first black buttress, heading up and right to prominent overhanging dihedral. The route runs below this to belay at stance level with top of dihedral. Then up open corner to top. 22 faintly initialled at start

1. 30m (19) 12 quickdraws. Can abseil from chains to ground

2. 15m (22) 6 quickdraws. Up to DBB. Walk off.

Starts at the toe of the second black buttress, 3 m left of BC. Up for 5 bolts on poor rock then goes left and through 2 roofs on better rock to DBB at 30 m. Route realigned on some small aperture hangers, take narrow profile quickdraws.

From the belay ledge of WTC continue up the line to top. Possible to abseil in from a variety of hardware.

15 m L of Barely credible and about 15 m R of where the wall changes direction down towards the base of the orange buttress. Large white streaks on the rock. This follows a R trending blocky ramp. Pitch 1 30 m grade 19. High first bolt, follow poor rock for 30 m to belay at chain. Possible to abseil from here. Pitch 2 16 m up on better rock with hard move through bulge 19 A0, or grade 22 to top out

Start just right of pedestal where cliff changes course and 3 m left of SO. “18” unfortunately painted at start. Follow bolts to top. Trends right for first half then back left in a crack system. Unclear if it is independent of SO, but it seems to be. Some loose rock. Chain belay, double ropes needed to get to ground.

The groove up the centre of the ampitheatre to DBB. Starts at small pedestal onto column and steps right as it starts to steepen into main line.

Bolted climb to right of Whinging Cripple on arete at start of sector. Heads left to share anchor with WC. May be renamed by JF, but this is what RB wanted it called

The buttress immediately left of alcove, just left of arete that marks the start of this sector.

Up and through shallow roof to small hanging chimney. Up to nice climbing above. At large roof, move right to chain anchor with single fixed biner.

This route starts opposite the large gum at the top of a rise. It climbs a black groove to under a large roof at 25m where it exits airily left to chains. Watch rope length. The space between bolts and the need to do moves at the grade well above the previous bolt will mean you want to be solid at the grade. As with many of the bolts in this sector, a spinning hanger does not indicate a loose bolt. If the nut is tight the bolt is fine. If the nut is loose, tighten it!

The central line in an attractive groove. Start under stepped diamond shape roof at 10m. First bolt removed. Stick clip second bolt.

The left line up another groove

bolted hanging crack 1m left of 'Capricious'.

Start under low roof angling left into long groove with some tricky moves. Can be supplemented with cams if desired. Step left to belay at chain/ fixed biner at 30 m. A second pitch goes to top, with 2 bolts and cams to chains at grade 12. 55m to ground.

continue past 2 more bolts to chain after finishing either Exslovenian or Snuggles The Dragon.

2m L of ES, undercut start with friable rock and up into steeper groove to anchors shared with route to left. Watch rope length.

Starts left of corner, stepping across right, then left again after some friable rock to thin crack. Shares last bolt and anchors with DMG

Undercut start on left side of arete and up left face, heading right to anchors before slab. Anchors fixed hangers only at present with single maillion.

Climb the seam past 3 bolts ( stick clip advised) to the double ring bolt belay at the top of Flake.

Open book corner and flake to rooflet at 5 m, then up face and thin groove to DBB in alcove

Slab to low roof. Tricky moves past second bolt, then continue up to the right of prow, moving right at top to shared anchors.

The sharp overhanging arete 15 m right of waterfall. Start on ground, not up ramp. Optional small finger size wire or cam after last bolt. Optional small wires to start, or use a long stick. Walk back to DBB.

Lay away the thin seam 5m right of Fools Gold. Start on ramp. Optional cam or nut in pocket between first and second bolts. DBB

From pedestal of rock launch up the centre of the buttress on RB to DBB, with occasional moves on the left arête. Finish with hands on top of cliff.

originally done by Anthony Brennan on trad. Starts left of water course, 100 m right of Beat on Brat areajust left of large block in alcove. Slightly overhanging crack to ledge then blast up left facing dihedral to tricky exit and chain belay.

Start as for Meritorious, but at ledge go left to arête. DBB above on slab, not for lowering off. Move right to chain anchor to clean.

Step off boulder under corner and head right and up under roof to finish up dihedral. Shared anchors with ST

Step off boulder as for UTCB but take the left hand face and arête to chain anchors

The bolted seam right of BOB

The face left of BOB.