Routes as ice in Japan

Various waterfallls and routes ranging from 5m to 30m. Many can be linked together and top out at Iou Dake 硫黄岳

About 5 falls ranging from 5-40m.

From the top there is access to other ice rotes, Dai Doshin　大同心 or Ko Doushin　小同心 apine / rock routes.

Falls up to 15m

Popular ice climb cragging area.

Rotue up the river that goes to the top. Up to 15 waterafalls, small to big

main ice fall (Honryū, 本流) 3 falls but the first fall is normally skipped since it is directly over the pond at the base and doesn't often freeze

Left route (左ルート), 2 pitches, F1 50m and F2 40m (Japanese grade VI)

Central route (中央ルート), 2 pitches, F1 45m and F2 40m (Japanese grade VI-)

Right route (右ルート), 2 pitches, F1 40m and F2 35m WI5+ (Japanese grade VI-)

Ichinotaki (一の滝), 7m WI3+

Ninotaki (二の滝), 55m WI4+ (Japanese grade V+)

Sannotaki (三の滝), 30m WI4

Honryū right flank falls (右側壁の氷瀑) – 50m WI4+ (Japanese grade V+ to VI)

兜岩山の斜面にカブコロン Namenekofōru, kabukoron Overhanging ice formation with delicate climbing and very little protection over the first 15m. You will need to be an experienced climber to attempt this climb.

Supposedly one of the best ice routes in japan if conditions are right. 1000m+ of altitude gain on near continuous ice.

After about 1500m ascent approach up Kuroto Ridge 黒戸尾根 (regular summer hiking trail), descend 700m north from 5th station 五合目 to either above or below Senjo Taki　仙丈滝 (might not be frozen). Follow the river to the summit.

Bivy / camp near 5th station 五合目 and allow for a very very long day.

Same start as O-Ren Dani Right Fork 黄連谷右俣 but takes the left hand valley about 1/3 of the way up.

This route tops out at 8th station 八合目