Routes as sport in Eastern Suburbs

From DUBB move delicately out right onto exposed wall and follow bolts straight up through reachy dynamic moves. mantle over ledge and keep going up to DUB. Harder for shorties. Take care of rope going over edges on lower off

Open project. Easy start through sandy jugs to gain flake. Crux section through next 2 bolts to anchors. Grade 18 down low if all the holds don't get ripped off. Belayers stay sharp and beware of sandstone meteors

Start: 25 left of (old?) sewer outlet on edge of buttress.

Newer stainless FH visible next to rusted carrot from top, yet beware the wonders of galvanic corrosion.

"The muddy, greasy wall 25m right of the shit outlet"

2 or 3 bolts to fixed carabiner lower off. All of the bolts are hideously rusted.

Start: Under the massive rooves, 50m south of the main wall. Can only be accessed at low tide and with a small swell. Apparently people have bouldered here in the past as well.

Up to BR just above lip, traverse left then follow 3 BRs to the top. All of the bolts are very badly weathered.

Start: At far left hand end of main wall.

Head up to the first BR on WBBB, then straight up the wall above, passing 1 (?) more BR. The bolts are all badly weathered.

Start: As for WBBB.

Straight up the wall, passing 4 BRs. All of the bolts are hideously rusted.

Start: 3m right of SKP.

At the first BR of BaC, tend right past 3 more BRs. All of the bolts are badly weathered.

Start: As for BaC.

Up to first bolt on GaRUY, then traverse left and up past 4 more BRs to double BBs (?). All bolts are badly rusted.

Start: 10m right of MU.

On the south face of the boulder in front of the main wall. Jump start from small block below it.

On the boulder in front of the main cliff.

Thin and tenuous climbing past 3 RB to a triple bolt belay.

Far right. Big U bolt and two shiny carrots to rap down. Reachy mantel practice. Rebolted 2016.

The climb is divided in two sections, the bottom part is a crack but the nature has reclaim it but the top part is climbable and some kind soul took the time to re-bolt it, the bolts are in good condition.

Recommended to approach from the trop and abseil the 4 meters that are climbable.

The climb itself is a boulder problem with 3 moves. You really use 1 bolt + the anchors.

Very pleasant climbing. Holds look like carved in the rock by human hand with experience setting up routes at a gym.

Good finger training.

Someone re-bolted not long ago and bolts are in good condition, this is one of the few climbs that stays dry from the constant seeping.

Bolts are in pretty good condition as someone not long ago re-bolted it.

Unfortunately I've never seen this section of the wall dry, it seeps a lot.

Always we and very rusty bolts, probably nobody has climbed this after the war.

The route seems to follow the shape of a pipe carved in the wall, not sure what was there before but the whole wall has shapes like that.

Same than "Impossible Mission", super rusty bolts and always wet.

A few hangers to do this traverse. The bush is in the way so it could use some cleaning.

3 hangers and finish on a chain. The chain has a carabiner for easy descend.

Rock is sandy and the block you need to grab to start will break soon.

Very hard climbing with no foot holds.

Start at the left of the block, traverse along the balancy lip to the arete and then around the corner and up the face to DRB lower off. Same anchors as magic rings. Be aware of rope drag.

Starts at the right side of the block and traverses left along the lip then up to the DRB lower off shared with 'Lets Go Retro'.

Blunt arete with ring bolts.

As the name suggests, it is steep!

Start: At the large ringbolt in the rock platform on the northern side of a small bay. 3 RBs out roof to double RB lower off just over lip.

Easy honeycomb choss with bolts.

The route directly below the abseil. Honeycomb choss and alarmingly projecting bolts.

The steep arête / prow right of the abseil.

Start: left of the prow itself, then traverse right. Some of the bolts (especially in the initial conglomerate band) are hard to see.

Start as for "Not Wot It Seams". Up to BR, then up and traverse right for 10m to DBB.

Start: Off boulder to north facing wall 15m right of Poste Haste.

Apparently complicated epics involving pre-clipped draws and bat men.

Horrible start but gets nicer the higher you go.

Start: Start as for Smut. From the horrible undercut move at the first bolt traverse right across horizontal break and up wall and subtle groove on great rock. For a more enjoyable climb just pull on the first bolt (grade 20).

Sustained and pumpy climbing which gets better the higher you go. Rebolted, chipped and straightened out for the 21st century.

Start: Starts in the middle of the main wall.

The name says everything about the history of this climb! Start on the last conceivable piece of rock on the right side before it undercuts and turns to choss. Was originally led in two pitches?! Rebolted 2008.

Start: Up and left past RB then jugs to big ledge. Over rooflet, a bit right then back left to gain left facing small corner. At the top of this blast straight up the face above to lower-off. Original route headed left from the small corner and up past some 'interesting' fixed pegs that are still visible.

One of the best single sport routes on the sea cliffs? Sustained and interesting face climbing on excellent rock. Starts on right side of main wall at the line of shiny new u-bolts. Thin slippery start to jug, up small arete to long reach (sling) then hand traverse wildly left to gain flake and final sustained face finish. Because this route doesn't get much traffic it is highly recommended you rap this route first and brush the sand/salt that accumulates on the holds.

Needs a rebolt. Start 4m right of PM, at shallow corner. Head straight up corner (3 BRs), then step down 2m and traverse left for 3m. Head up and right past 2 more BRs then left to belay (possible to rap off from here). Pitch 2 is possible for another 15m (scary).

Starting 5 meters left of Arapiles inside the chimney, follow the line of BR's up. Pro in decent condition. Can link up with 2nd pitch of Arapiles.

Not a bad little pump fest, 23 if you’re tall, 25 if you’re short. If it wasn’t for the first hold being Perma sandy (a brush improves friction 1000% but the sand returns within a couple of weeks), then this route would be one of the better ones on the sea cliffs, as it stands its a good local campus ladder in a great position, on "mostly" incredible rock. Stick clip required for the first bolt

Proj

Right of cave, start up on metamorphic rock to ledge. Use a short draw or screwgate and a keen belayer past the 3rd bolt.

Project right of Pacific, finishing at Pacific anchors

Middle of big cave wall, 10m R of Harold would Go. Hard start (stickclip 1st ring) then up line past scissor block. Big move to finish. Careful when lowering past the scissor block. Rethreading the rope through the ring just left of it, as a redirect (you're still lowering off the double rings up top), totally avoids this problem.

Varied funkiness. Steep corner 2m R of Funky Moves then sandy moves up R to roof (hidden chip to clip high bolt after foot ledge fell on my head), L a move and up. For Eddie Aikau and Harold Holt (who I met 2 weeks before he drowned).

Interesting moves the whole way. This climbs the corners on the left edge of the big cave some 13m R of Matts Climb. Start up irritating slab or walk R and up into the cave and walk left to the line, step down to bolt belay. Up the line to a double U lower off (or topout to a 3 ring anchor 10m higher over the top). It replaces an old sandbag 15 (!) Jurds on Toast which probably climbed the start a bit further left then continued up the corner past 2 carrots (still rusting). Sling added after rockfall.

A suicidal route with almost every hold guaranteed to break on you. On the bright side every ascent is unique!

First 2 bolts as for Devils Sandpit, clip the 3rd bolt of TRAAF continue right and up the proud arete that looks great but climbs terribly, on holds that crumble beneath your fingers and toes (clip next bolt and ignore bolt on right of arete, going straight up instead).

Alternatively, traverse in from the walk-in ledge on the right, clipping the bolt on right of arete and going up.

Much easier and more solid than it looks (fortunately). Start 2m R of The Devil's Sandpit and 6m L of Funky Moves (but at ground level). Follow line to lower-off below awesome breaking wave of rock. Start has good holds out left. The 2nd roof is easy, you throw a leg over a big flake on the lip, it's been jumped on but the belayer should stay off to the left till you're off it. Third roof can be done with all the good holds wet.

2m right of Matt's climb and just left of 3 roofs and a funeral. A burly move to the 2nd bolt then up easily to ledge, leave behind the jugs for slopers up rounded cracks to anchor.

Start on biggest boulder. Up the ledge and step right to crack then onwards through roofs. Better to be short or tall on this

Classic and varied. Same start as Pocks and straight up thin crack and wall above. Claudette Colvin was actually the person who wouldn't give up her seat - see drunk history .

About 3m right of the arete at the mouth of the gully, opposite the ladders, on 2nd biggest boulder. Clip 1st bolt with a screwgate and step left and up past another 8 Ubolts to a loweroff. 1st pitch retrobolted and straightened out 2014 (originally traversed in from right at roof). There is the old trad 2nd pitch over roof above (17ish).

Line on the left hand side (north) at the base of the steep narrow part of the gully. By car at base of steep section, 50m from the gully exit to the sea. Up on jugs (you can clip 1st bolt on Rainbow Connection and have your second unclip it later) and cross left onto ledge. up to ramp where you can pull on crimps or step right and to a hands off freakish slab. Then up easily through ledge and funkies up second ramp to anchor.

Start a metre right of Chicken of the Sea, head up and rightwards to finish up a thin crack. Varied and slightly wonky climbing on good rock

About 12m R of Rainbow Connection etc, and 10m L of pornflakes. Up tricky slab, ditto bulge, then easy corner to top

Pumpy! Extended with 20m of new climbing. About 40m back up the gully from the sea and 20m R of Rainbow Connection, below a chossy left tending flake. Up the flake moving left past 2 ledges. At top go right to hidden flake at anchor. Careful lowering and cleaning as it's very diagonal (leave 1st draw clipped then climb up and remove it) First crack was done as easy, scary trad (13!), extended by Eugene.

Long draws will cut drag.

Originally called 'Pornflakes' - Mikl's old rusted carrot can be seen on the first obvious ledge.

"A ficticious natural force". Originally a trad 18! Retrobolted and much saner. Awkward moves all the way. About 12m right of Pornflakes, and about 18m left of the ladder, on the left edge of an obvious orange wall with a crack running up the centre (SS).

Follow the cracks to a small roof, then head right and up to the top. heading left after the roof is easier and has its own bolt now.

This route (working title "The Frelling Wall") was abandoned when a large chunk of rock fell off and nearly brained the belayer (and made the route significantly harder - 24/25). It also seeps a lot. If you want to have go before the rest falls into the sea, all yours.

Up the flake to the roof, then blast out right onto great rock aiming for a rail, then up to meet the Tourist Route.

Bolted

Follow bolts right of ladder up arete, funky off the ledge. belay on anchor post and crappy fixed hangers. P2 is an unfinished project.

Full scale multipitch, seacliff atmosphere with modern protection. Originally done as a 4 pitch trad route, the top pitch is a chossy mess, and pitch one (described separately) is a good trad problem, so this is the middle 2 pitches. It climbs a slightly suspect flake, gear in the flake will tend to loosen it, so bolts on the left keep you and the rope out of the way if big edges come off the flake (I used double ropes). If the flake decides to go for a walk you're all dead anyway. Start by climbing the ladder and walking past the first arete (Posturing). After another 12m you scramble over a boulder and there's a small corner.

1. 12m (20) Hard start up the corner and traverse right to the arete, up onto belay ledge.

2. 18m (18) Head right past loose block (one already gone!) to right side of flake and layback up it. At the top head right to the corner and up to the belay.

To descend do a 30m rap back to the ledge. The rap overhangs the ledge slightly so you can bounce wildy and hope for the best, but better if the first person down clips the rap rope into the top 2 runners down P2 so they can get left and down to the walk round ledge. Next down takes the draws off and gets pulled (or bounces) onto the ledge.

Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays.

Several climbers has been threatened with fines by police for climbing this route (September 2019). The police are called out because locals think climbers are suicidal people ready to jump. Police deal with over 50 suicides a year along this coastline. Wear climbing helmets and try and look like a climber as much as possible. When belaying at the top be friendly to people walking past. It's best to rap back down the route rather than climb the fence and walk off.

Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp about 40m R of Obscurity (ringbolted corner).

1. 28m (19) Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay. Originally given 15 on trad!

2. 12m (18) Leftwards below choss and up right to belay.

3. 10m (20) Up to roof and a few stiff moves. Double U belay. Small 'stile' to help you over the sharp picket fence.

Up TC to the first break, then step right to the shallow corner (BR). Follow this (BRs) to the top. 6 BRs in total. Belay as for TC.

Popular. Start as for TC.

Blast straight up and over the small roof (BRs) to the obvious "eye". Continue straight up the wall (BRs) to double bolt belay. 8 BRs in total.

Still awaiting a free ascent. Start as for VT.

Up to the roof as for VT, then trend right, following the line of BRs up the left side of the black streak.

2m right of PtC.

Heads up the right hand edge of the black streak. Traverse right to line (BR) then blast straight up the wall passing BRs.

2m right of ObF, hard pull onto wall. Follow the line of manky BRs straight up the wall

3m right of M, on large white sloping boulder below chossy arete.

Step onto wall then dangle left around the arete. Head up the wall, trending right to stay near the arete.

Rebolted with 8 U bolts and new anchors. (June 2012)

Multipitch climb with ancient protection and even less natural protection. Start about 25 m R of Acute What on white choss wall. Below and just left of the corner in the middle of the east facing wall.

1. 6m Up to ledge (manky BB).

2. 19m (25) Head up to corner, passing loose block (manky BR and cams). Head up the wall just right of the corner, tending right over the void (rusty BRs; take a wire to protect the second). Manky BB for the belay.

6m left of Wag's Effort, below jug on lip.

A major thrash through 4 roofs and a mid-life crisis. Muscle up and leftward past bird crap, glued on holds and 9 RBs.

2m right of Wag's Effort.

Swarm up arete, balancy over roof with unique suction move, then up wall past a thin crux. 6 RBs to double RB lower off.

Start up easy wall left of corner through 3 RBs to ledge. Then up chossy, sandy, arete. Clip high Ubolt with lockiong biner to keep you off the ledge. 2 RBs through the honeycomb to a double RB lower. Take a hold home as a souvenir. At the rate the holds break off no 2 ascents will never be the same!

Two meters right of 'Iron Lady' Strenuous start, then straight up through 6 RBs. Awkward layaway to to double RB belay.

Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts. Warning: The last bolt before the anchors is loose.

Marked and 1m right of 'Redneck Brother'. Reachy start past first 2 RBs, then interesting moves through pocketed area, past 2 more RBs then straight up to final RB and to lower off. Triple BB anchors above for top roping.

Crag classic. Marked, 1m right of 'Mompox' "Perfectly" chipped holds leading up to left of the grassy pocket, past 4 BRs, then left of the seam through the crux, passing final BR to lower off. Double BB anchor for top roping. Seeps for a week after heavy rain.

2m right of 'Gloucester Buckets' Almost always found seeping and wet. Follow the streak

Start in the middle of wild cactus. Straight up past manky BR's

The following five routes are all on the north facing black wall that disappears into the chasm. The wall can be quite greasy and the base can be flooded after prolonged rain.

Funky and desperate. 3m right of LP, at the undercut arete. Delicate moves up the arete (2 RBs), then finish up the corner above. 2 RBs anchor. (Solo on F/A, then retrobolted)

1m right of K.

Boulder past BR to ledge, then up as you will. (solo on F/A)

Big, feels like El Cap after the other sports climbs in the area. Climb up with increasing difficulty to a bridging session then a pair of rooflets and finish at the 8th ring, a 50m rope just reaches.

The classic of the crag. After the initial loose session in 'The Devil's sandpit" the climbing is excellent and reachy. Start some 60m L of Rupture of the Deep at a flake / corner about 10 m up. Move up R and back left to base of route, then follow a flake line over bulge and slab to rap ring, 7 rings en route.

A short double roof crux. Start 10 L of Hot Axis up high, head up leftwards, thru roofs and up, 6 rings.

Maximum pump for the grade.Also sandy and scary at times. Start at the R end of the wall, up wall past 3 rings to ledge, up past another and into cave. Clip ring on lip and move R 1m and up overhung line to top.

A great little pump, start up small corner in the middle of the wall, 4 rings.

Steep climbing up the wall above Sea Kwarry Wall, with a big roof move. Start; on the ledge above Make Believe etc, go R and up wall and roof, 7 rings.

Venus' finest hour, 3 m L of MB, 4 rings, L at top

Eventual exhaustion, Start, 1m L of R, cave to start.