Routes as sport in Wards Hill

The first line at the extreme R end of the crag. The short arete - a hard start, then easy past another bolt to a single ring lower off.

The second most R route on the crag.Hard, thin moves up the face left of the arete. Single ring bolt belay. Can use an extender as well as a draw on Areptile's single ring bolt for additional protection.

The black streak 2 metres left of arete. Straight up for 2 or 3 bolts then diagonally left to double ring bolt anchor. Sustained and good fun

Bouldery start up to the labial feature,then straight up to the same anchors as BP

A delightful stroll up the centre of the wall 3 metres left of the cave climb. High first bolt appears high but is easier then it looks. Fun climb. This route shares a double ring bolt lower off with George's Daughter.

The line of clean rock directly below the DRB, 1.5m L of Centrepiece and 1m R of the crappy 23. Clean rock and good moves including multiple underclings.

The far L climb on the first cliff. L of Georges daughter. Ring bolted.

As you come down to the main wall there is a cave with 3 short routes up a pocketed overhanging wall that converge on the one anchor. Ginger is the right route of the 3.

The line up the middle of the cave. the shortest route in the cave.

The left hand route up the corner of the cave moving R as you get higher and finishing at the anchors in the middle of the roof. There is a much harder variant if you elect not to use the rail at the top. Just pockets

Hard moves to horizontal fissure, bolt up into cave rim and short wall with bolt above

As for Will o'the Wasp , at 4 metres move right to double bolt belay in back of cave. Crux climb the overhang and short hard wall above

Starts directly below left end of cave 3. Up past a chipped undercling and a few more chipped holds to slopey mantle into cave. Straight up rim of cave and hard move past bolt to finish.

Sustained classic 2 metres left of Will o'the Wasp is a thin seam running up to a little roof at 6 metres. Hard moves over the roof then the thin crack above to finish on the right end of the overhanging block. The start is affected by random seepage, making the second clip a bit desperate sometimes.

This climb starts and finishes beneath the left end of the overhanging block. Climb the vague bulge (bolt) onto a sloping ledge and a balancy clip. Continue diagonally right and up past crux, then back left below the block to anchors. One of the best on the coast. Paul riviere

Starts off block beneath a flake 2 metres left of Flash Me. Straight up past flake and a balancy undercling move out left a bit. Then tending right and finishing left of overhanging block at the same anchors as Flash Me. Sustained classic Paul riviere

Clip the first bolt for LA but keep left and follow the line of bolts trending L and then straight up. Techo

Tough arete. Undercut start, past 2 rings to some amazingly formed pockets, up arete to lower off on slopey top.

recently 2014. crux may be hard than 25 but I was stronger back then. The undercut arete. start as for Malabar and move L.

the often wet overhanging arete that starts just before the big overhand. Look for the cairn to stand on. Chipped. Rebolted 2014

The orange overhanging open book corner to the L of the wet cave. The hardest part is keeping your feet dry on the bottom of the route.

The wall/slab L of Orangtang. Rebolted 2014