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Routes as sport in The Lighthouse

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Showing all 25 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Superliner Area
20 Seahawk (Top Pitch only)

The top pitch of Seahawk from DBB. Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 35m, 13
23 All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only)

Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 2013

Sport 36m, 13
22 Captagon

A long pumper on pockets. A touch overhung. It's the ringbolted route squeezed between Destroyer and Voyager, but starting much lower on tiny 'ledge' with ring bolts.

Set by Neil Monteith, 26 Oct 2014

FA: Neil Monteith & ben lane, 19 Mar 2016

Sport 28m, 11
Red Riding Hood Area
23 Big Bad Wolf

Starts under the line of rings 3m left of "When the Levee Breaks". Hard crux and will be desperate if you are a little short.

FA: Will Watkins, 26 Oct 2012

Sport 20m
18 Hooray for Hippies

Best to rap off carrots for Sieze The Day access, and stop on good size ledge (enough for 3) belay off two rings, start looks intimidating but its fairly easy crux at mid height and the very top

FA: Rick, Paul, Gilles, Big G & Jonesy, 21 Oct 2012

Sport 28m
23 Sieze The Day

Rap off carrots, clipping some bolts on way down otherwise your stranded in space. Belay off double rings at small stance..Climbs switches on at halfway mark, if you don't like mono's you won't like this

FA: Rick Phillips & Paul Devine, 21 Oct 2012

Sport 28m
Liquid Insanity Area
24 Mister Bean

Clip first bolt of FL, then make way to arete passing another bolt. Follow arete passing 8 more bolts with one hidden around the left. Apparently grade 26 if you don't use the holds on the left of arete (but given one of the bolts is around there... .

FA: Greg James, 1992

Sport 30m, 10
22 Grandmas ta Flash

Ring bolts a couple of metres right of Neptune.

FFA: Mike

Sport 15m
23 Unorthodox Liasons

Climb direct up the wall to the left of the arete past 5 ring bolts. Challenging moves low down leads to pleasant upper section.

FA: Will Watkins & Rick fatty fillips, 10 Nov 2012

Sport 15m, 5
22 Fight or Flight

Line of carrot bolts to the right of Liquid Daze. Great moves on great rock. Starts off the vegitated block ledge.

FA: R.Dunn & Matt Scoles, 2006

Sport 15m
22 Just Technical
Sport 15m
22 We Are Amphibious

Ring-bolted arete with awesome pockets.

FA: Neil Monteith & Chris Trengove, 2007

Sport 10m
Rex Hunt's Area
21 Rex Hunt's Love Child

A super classic - and probably the best route around this grade on the sea cliffs. Do it!

Start: Abseil in from carrot and cams for backup. Start on the left hand side of the wall below the rings. Take some trad gear as well to supplement the bolts if you are not confident at the grade. That said, hanging around to place gear might mean you miss the tick! Falls are safe from the crux.

Warning: As of 4/1/18, the fixed hanger at the anchor is loose and needs replacing.

FA: Greg James, 1992

Sport 30m, 10
23 Two Minute Hate

Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star.

Sport 12m, 5
26 Kalani

Rap in off ring and carrot. Down to double ring belay. Moderate move past 1st ring and punchy crux near top. Enjoy

FA: Tim Booth, 20 May

Sport 13m, 8
27 Rani

Abseil off double rings to ledge. Double ring belay. Pre clip 1st ring as little spicy move down low. Cruise to mid height for punchy crux then go for ze sumeet

FA: Tim Booth, 11 Jun

Sport 10m, 8
24 Wifey's cookin one

Rap in off double rings to double rings at ledge. Up then punchy second half with a big chuck to a pocket to finish

FA: Tim Booth, 12 Nov 2017

Sport 10m, 8
Peristalsis Area
(Ivan's Project)

Bolted seam.

SportProject
(Zac's Project)

2m R.

SportProject
28 High Society

FA: Zac Vertress, 2006

Sport 25m
Lighthouse Lower Whalesong Buttress
20 Repulse

The face left of Whalesong with squillions of carrots - that are very hard to spot from below. Start on the left side of blunt arete at the foot of the buttress. Although generally the rock is excellent on this route, there are many large detached flakes that should have been removed with a hammer by the first ascent team. Be warned - get your belayer to wear a helmet. Don't believe the print guide topo - there is NO lower-off anchor at the top of this climb - just two carrots. You will need to finish up Superliner to get off.

FA: Robert Dunn & Werner Steyer, 2004

Sport 30m, 12
Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall
25 Seahawk
1 25 37m
2 25 12m
3 20 35m

Big, steep and on excellent rock for most of the way. The lower pitches start at sea level and feature amazing orange smooth rock. The upper easy pitch is a great single pitch in its own right with a variety of rock types (from smooth, to pocketed to slightly chossy). You can link pitch 1 & 2 together for one massive 50m pitch (as was done on the first ascent).

  1. 37m (25) Start up All Guns Blazing for four bolts then take the left line up the steep imposing wall. Crank endlessly to tiny ledge and double ring belay. You can link this with next pitch if you have the guns and draws.

  2. 12m (25) Bouldery moves up and right on delicious smooth rock to more major ledge.

  3. 35m (20) Carefully up the brittle undercut start then march up and slightly right through band after band of different rock types. This pitch is quite overhung but juggy most of the way.

FA: Matt Brooks (p 1, 2) & Neil Monteith (p3), 4 May 2013

Sport 84m, 3, 14
24 All Guns Blazing
1 23 36m
2 24 14m
3 23 36m

Multipitch sport route straight up the guts of the biggest and steepest section of Point Perp. Very sustained climbing on immaculate rock. The first pitch especially is an absolute stunner. It's 90m direct to sea level via free hanging abseil - a 100m rope, or two 50m tied together makes rap access easy (knot change required if using two 50m). Otherwise - fix a 50m rap rope and clip into bolts on the way down to the belay ledge at end of pitch 1. Then use a 70m rope doubled to make it to sea level. Don't attempt the lower pitches if the surf is up!

  1. 36m (23) Unrelenting pumper. Starts from sea level at left end of massive steep wall - starting off rock platform. Easy start up jugs to meet right end of rooflet at 10m. Now plow direct up the overhung wall above on mostly big jugs. They won't feel like jugs by the time you finish though! Finish with a spicy runout to small ledge on the left (bring a single bolt plate for this belay). Alternativly continue into 2nd pitch (50m pitch!) 10+ bolts in this pitch.

  2. 14m (24) A bouldery little number. Out right from the ledge and over tricky bulge (random FHs) and rightwards on great glossy rock to next ledge and bolt belay. 4 bolts.

  3. 36m (23) Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

Set by Neil Monteith

FA: Neil Monteith (p1, 3) & Matt Brooks (p2), 25 Apr 2013

Sport 86m, 3
20 Wedding Party

Easier variant to Seahawk's second pitch. From belay ledge climb right clipping first two bolts of Seahawk, then keep traversin right and up white polished wall past two expansion bolts to ledge. Climbed on Neil's wedding day!

FA: Neil Monteith & Jono 'Bestman' Schmidt, 31 Aug 2013

Sport 15m, 4
24 Atmosfear

Continous steep climbing on mostly big holds. Currently the right most line of bolts on the lower wall. Easy start up jugs then the angle starts to steepen and the holds get smaller. Keep fighting through a pumpy section to jugs. Finish up superb polished rock heading slightly left to double rings on ledge below top pitch of All Guns Blazing.

FA: Neil Monteith & Matt Brooks, 4 May 2013

Sport 50m, 18

Showing all 25 routes.