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Routes as trad in Wonderland

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Showing all 53 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Warped Wall
23 Subliminal Erotica

2m left of the arete. A fine little wall. 2 bolts and a cam. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, 1993

Mixed 8m, 2
18 Hope and Glory

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: K. Bennett & G. Dean, 1993

Mixed 15m, 2
20 Bounty's Revenge

2m right of Hope and Glory. Climb through bucket in wall to first bolt. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean & K. Bennett, 1991

Mixed 15m, 2
15 Toto Takes the High Road

Climb Yellow Brick Road and then left up the face to a tree belay.

FA: Brian Cork & Ally Cork, 5 Aug

Trad 15m
4 Yellow Brick Road

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: K. Bennett & solo, 1991

Trad 6m
4 Moist Crack

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

FA: G. Dean & solo, 1991

Trad 6m
18 Blind Fury

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1993

Mixed 20m, 2
20 Warped Minds

A link up. Start up Wet Dreams. At the second bolt, traverse left to meet the anchors of Mind Warp.

FA: MK, 1998

Mixed 15m, 2
18 Oh the Humidity

The major offwidth corner just right of Wet Dreams. #5 cam at the start, #4 in the middle then traverse left to chain above Wet Dreams.

Trad 10m
19 Bush Christening

The main weakness through the imposing rooves, about 10m left of Tomorrow Boy. There are two bolts. One at the start and one under the roof.

FA: D. Rose

Mixed 20m, 2
25 On A Crimp And A Prayer

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

FA: B. Christian, 1996

Mixed 15m, 5
18 Rabid Dog

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

FA: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1993

Trad 20m
12 Charred Dog

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

  1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

  2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

FA: E. Sharp & B. Birchall, 1991

Trad 30m, 2
Canine Wall
24 Stairway To Heaven

The black wall around the corner from Warped Wall. Sustained climbing past about 4 bolts and trad gear to a chain belay.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993

Mixed 25m, 4
22 Hot Blooded

The right hand side of the black wall, about 4m left of the gully. Climb steep wall on superb rock. 4 bolts plus trad gear to a chain belay.

FA: G. Dean & K. Bennett, 1991

Mixed 20m, 4
21 Well Hung

1m left of Canine Conflagration. Excellent climbing on good rock. Up blocks to bottom of orange wall. Up wall to roof. 3 bolts and cams (for under the roof). Double bolt belay.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1992

Mixed 20m, 3
19 Canine Conflagration

Start at the 1m roof leading to a flake.

  1. Scamble up the block, move right under the roof and then up the flake to a ledge.

  2. From the right hand end of the ledge, follow the arete to the top.

FA: E. Sharp & B. Birchall, 1991

Trad 25m, 2
Grab the Gristle Area
10 Barn Storming

The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress.

FA: G. Dean (solo), 1991

Trad 8m
16 Eat The Meat

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993

Mixed 10m, 2
19 Don't Chew The Fat

A fine little wall to the right of the arete. A small cam and then two bolts. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1992

Mixed 10m, 2
20 Bitter Fingers

2m right of 'Don't Chew the Fat'. Up the short crack and move left at top to exit.

FA: R. Curtis & E. Sharp, 1991

Trad 10m
18 My Sugerlumps

Starts in the middle of the slab 5m right of "Grab The Gristle". Directly up with good gear in the breaks then punch through the overhang. Climb up then left to a tree belay.

FA: Josiah Hess & Lukas, Oct 2016

Trad 12m
17 The Dodgy Brothers

Through the breaks to a cave.

FA: M. Kelly, 1997

Trad 10m
18 Tragically Sick

About 15 m right of Bitter Fingers, just past the small ridge. Up wall past one bolt. Same finish as Exterminator.

FA: G. Dean & K. Harry, 1993

Mixed 15m, 1
18 Sealed With A Glascow Kiss

Up wall using small cams.

FA: G. Dean, 1992

Trad 15m
19 Larry The Leisurely Lounge Lizard

A link-up. Climb Sealed With A Glascow Kiss for about 5m and then traverse right to finish up Basic Instinct.

FA: E. Houlton & M. Kelly, 1997

Mixed 15m, 1
18 Basic Instinct

A great wall route with superb moves on great rock. 3 bolts and trad gear.

Mixed 25m, 3
19 Pink Slip

About 8m right of 'Basic Instinct'. Make one move up left into crack then follow the crack to the tree A bit loose near the top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Ed Sharp, 1991

Trad 18m
Silk 'n' Steel Wall
19 Dick Dastardly

3m left of Bartman. climb the thin flake to the ledge then up the wall. One bolt plus small cams. Tree belay.

FA: G. Dean, K. Bennett & W. Anderson, 1992

Mixed 15m, 1
17 Bartman

The left of two cracks 1m apart. Small cams and then step left to chains. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

FA: G. Dean & Brett, 1991

Trad 15m
16 King Aurther

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

FA: G. Dean & K. Bennett, 1991

Trad 15m
26 Pseudomonas

8m left of 'Fast Day in Paradise', starting below the fragmented crack. Varietal, unique and quality climbing. Hard boulder problem to get established in the crack, following this all the way up until it fades into a flared, shallow seam at half height and then straight up thin wall through breaks, with a cruisy finish up the final headwall to top out and tree belay. Generous and solid gear placements grace the entirety of the route.

FFA: Daniel Ryan, Mar 2014

Trad 15m
21 Silk 'N' Steel

Classic. - Start at large corner with huge roof. Up corner to traverse line on left wall. Follow this out to arete, move around arete and up crack to projecting tooth of rock. Move out left onto wall and then straight up wall to top. If you can deal with the first few feet of loose(ish) rock it is well worth it for the fun 'no hands rest' on the tooth of rock and for the excellent finish up the final wall.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1991

Trad 20m
23 Misery

10m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the flake and then the crack. Veer left and up. 3 bolts plus trad gear.

FA: G. Dean & W. Anderson, 1992

Mixed 25m, 3
18 Dicky Knee

Up short wall (2 bolts) then up flared crack to a slightly overhanging finish (trad gear) to a bolt belay.

FA: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1991

Mixed 20m, 2
19 Fat Rich Constables

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Shares a start with Punters and Collectors. Head left from the crack, up wall with cams and 3 bolts.

Named after the great 'Animal' (an infamous climber of the era).

FA: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1991

Mixed 16m, 3
14 Punters And Collectors

About 20m right of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. Climb the crack, lay-backing all the way. Large cams.

FA: A. Stephens, P. Horn (Mongrel), J. Lewis & L. Dickson, 1991

Trad 12m
17 Dead Poets

Wall 2m right of Punters and Collectors. 1 bolt plus trad gear to tree anchor.

FA: G. Dean & A. Stephens, 1991

Mixed 15m, 1
10 Jester

The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams.

FA: K. Bennett & G. Dean, 1991

Trad 15m
Overdrive Wall
18 Burke's Backyard

The left, overhanging crack to small tree belay. Requires a full rack.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist (Gristle), 1992

Trad 20m
19 Adrenaline Overdrive

Start 5m right of 'Zarzoff'. An obvious V corner with roof. Up corner. Exit roof on left and up crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1991

Trad 15m
Whipping wall
17 Working The Dog

The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.

FA: G. Gilchrist & G. Dean, 1993

Mixed 12m, 2
19 Whipping Boy

The arete just right of the descent gully, about 15m left of Dino's Dilemma. A blocky wall/arete with ledges. 2 bolts plus trad gear to a trad belay. Up corner to ledge, mantle onto next ledge then power out through the small overhang on big holds.

FA: A. Stephens & G. Dean, 1992

Mixed 12m, 2
14 Alice In Wonderland

A great little number just right of Whipping Boy. A couple of bolts and trad gear. Up easy rock to corner then head left.

FA: G. Dean & K. Harry, 1992

Mixed 20m, 2
18 Dino's Dilemma

The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.

FA: G. Dean & K. Bennett, 1991

Trad 15m
15 Knuckle Sandwich

The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall et al, 1991

Trad 10m
13 Cave Bird

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

FA: Dick & Party, 1991

Trad 10m
20 Dead Heart

Zig-zag crack to under large boulder then exit right. Originally done with all trad gear but a bolt was added 2 years later by the first ascentionist.

FA: G. Dean & K. Bennett, 1991

Trad 15m
16 Getting Up

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

FA: Richard Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1991

Trad
The Top Tier
16 Time Waster

The first crack on the left side of the tier. U crack through the dirt to the top. A great climb if you are sick in the head.

FA: G. Dean & G. Gilchrist, 1993

Trad 10m
16 Twister

The crack 2m right of Blue Sky Mining.

FA: G. Gilchrist & G. Dean, 1993

Trad 10m
20 Blue Sky Mining

2m right of Twister. Up a pumpy, overhanging wall past a bolt and some silver stick (?), through a roof, past some cams to two new arms!!!

FA: G. Gilchrist & G. Binnett, 1993

Mixed 10m, 1
16 Fart Arse

8m right of Blue Sky Mining. Up onto ledge then up crack past a bolt to top.

FA: G. Dean, G. Gilchrist & G. Binnett, 1993

Mixed 10m, 1

Showing all 53 routes.