Routes as trad in Belougery Spire

A classic climb up a steep, exposed wall and slab on good rock. An excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbungles. Can be climbed in two pitches.

Scramble up to below the red-brown wall in middle of W Face, between prominent buttress and Abseil Gully (10 m L of Abseil Gully). Start just left of the 'V'

1. 15m To prominent ledge.

2. 35m Up close to corner for 10m and then head diagonally right to belay on Tourist Traverse. Some parties stick to the corner cracks.

3. 30m Step left to avoid small overhang. Up, superb climbing with good pro. Belay on block to avoid severe rope drag.

4. 15m Easy slab.

Start 3 m L of Abseil Gully, below bulging rock.

1. 22m (crux) Up R over bulge. Up.

2. 10m Up to belay on Tourist Traverse ledge.

3. 33 m Up until angle eases. Thread belay.

4. 15 m Easily to middle peak.

The route of the original ascent of Belougery Spire by Eric Dark and Osmar White in 1932, interpreted from a description of the FA in Walkabout 1-4-36, which said'...one pitch is a three· hundred-foot traverse across the face of the mountain on a ledge from a foot to three feet wide, with sheer rock wall above and a drop of a thousand feet below'. This clearly describes pitches two and three of this route.

Start: At the far right hand end of the Halfway Ledge below the obvious, vegetated gully.

1: 20m As for pitch one of Abseil Gully. Up corner/gully to chains on right.

2: 50 m Traverse left across the middle of the face on the big ledge (tending up at the end) and into the vegetated gully.

3: 40m At very end of ledge is a fine chimney, which leads to the famous 'Anti·Marilyn' squeeze hole. It is not really tight although presumably Marilyn couldn't do it. It is possible to climb around to the left of the squeeze hole too.

4: 20m Easy climbing to the summit.

Start: At the far right hand end of the Halfway Ledge below the obvious, vegetated gully.

1. 16 m From L end of corner· gully go up to tree on R.

2. 5 m Crack above. Small tree belay.

3. 22 m Traverse 5 m L. The little overhang requires some cogitation. Up past tree. Finiish up R side of gully. Belay off descent anchors on L. Scramble to top.

This route was once thought to be Eric Dark's and Osmar White's original route to the summit. This is almost certainly not the case. However, since this route is already well known as Dr Dark's Chimney it is probably less confusing to retain this name as a tribute to Eric Dark's achievements in the Warrumbungles. From the top of the water-worn gully that leads to Half-way Ledge on W face, turn R up steep, vegetated gully. Many parties prefer to avoid this gully by climbing first two pitches of If the Spirit Moveth.

1-2: 60 m Scrubby gully on R, carefully, to large ledge at base of slabs leading up to chimney. Belay off bush.

3: 25 m Diagonally R up slabs to short crack. Crack to ledge below main chimney.

4: 35 m (crux) Chimney to where it opens out. Belay.

Easy scramble to S summit.

Shares start of If the Spirit Moveth (same first two pitches), continues to Doctor Dark's Chimney belay ledge, then goes L of Doctor Dark's Chimney and up wall.

Follow track to W Face. Continue along track behind detached pinnacle and scramble up first narrow gully to narrow ledge.

1. 35 m Up small ramp, then up over small overhang. Meander up to tree belay. Scramble to ledge and follow track L along cliff line. Track dips to a narrow belay stance about 5 m past bottom of dip (near finish of Doctor Dark's Chimney pitch two. Vertigo is round comer to L.)

2. 40 m Steep slab (adequate pro), tending slightly R, to small overhang. Poor rock. Overhang (crux), then easier climbing for about 20 m to small, vertical crack.

3. 15 m Scramble to top, with belay tree for Doctor Dark's Chimney visible on R, at end of chimney.

A fantastic varied crack high up on the west face of the spire. It provides a superb low(er) commitment but engaging approach to the south summit pinnacle on the spire. Excellent protection, clean rock and stellar crack climbing which all in one combo is a rarity in the Bungles. Stays in the shade till after midday (1 to 2pm ish in September).

Start on the upper ledge system (above and south of the Vertigo ledges) reached via pitch 1 and 2 of Dr Dark's Chimmney (the scrubby gully accessed from the base of the Abseil Gully), or pitch 1 and 2 of If the Spirit Moveth (and No Birthdays on Pluto).

Done as one 50-55m pitch to the summit. Start 10m right (facing in) from the slab pitch (pitch 3) of Dr Dark's Chimmney. From the broad ledge below the slabs, solo easy ground up and right to a good belay stance in the grassy recess below a chockstone belay. The finger crack through a small bulge (crux) can be seen 8m above.

The crack eases and widens after the crux bulge and after 25-30m arches left to join Dr Darks Chimmney for the final 20-25m. Belaying once the Chimney is reached would also be an option.

Led ground up by Rick with Peregrines buzzing about in magic conditions.

Originally done in a combo with the first ascent of Fan Tail.

When done as a combo with either Fan Tail, or Meet Me At The Crux, it provides an excellent contemporary and engaging route to the summit. The scrubby gully and halfway ledges provide easy access and bail options for lower commitment on shorter days.

The following two routes, one a variant of the other have only vague route descriptions. They start at the top of the first gully that leads up to Halfway Ledge on W Face. The upper pitches of both climbs lie R of Doctor Dark's Chimney; the first follows a wall and a rib, the second a gully.

Start where access track reaches SW Arete.

1. Up gully above. Traverse to nose.

2. Continue up nose on gully side. Walk to top of pinnacle.

3. Traverse R under Doctor Dark's Chimney.

4. Exposure increases dramatically as you traverse R across a difficult nose. Veer up at about 45 degrees to base of rib.

5. To S summit.

Attributed by Bryden Allen in 63 to Davis and Pettigrew. Description is from an earlier, more detailed record.

One of many variants on If the Spirit Moveth. Variants are possible up to the foot of Dr Dark's Chimney, and from there on to S Face. A better description might read 'Up SW Arete to foot of Dr Dark's Chimney. Traverse R to face. Up'.

Start above access gully on SW Arete.

1. 18 m Up corner on R, traverse L. Up to large block, then grassy ledge.

2. 12 m Mantelshelf, then up to tree belay. Walk to foot of Dr Dark's Chimney.

3. 24 m Traverse R. Up to tree belay in gully.

4. 30 m (crux) Up in gully, then R. Up to R past jug. Thread belay near tea-tree.

5. 36 m Up to rib. Up rubble, then chimney to bush belay.

6. 30 m Easily up.

This route and Missing You Marcelle provide a direct start to the upper Halfway Ledge at the base of Vertigo, as opposed to the scramble approach up the lower part of the Abseil Gully.

While the previous description suggested the route starts from ground level, it is more likely that it starts at the top of the large lower (first) main vegetated ledge that is reached after the scramble up and over from Belougary Pinnacle as per the access to the Halfway Ledge. They likely climb the wall left of the water-worn gully below the Halfway Ledge and Vertigo. During a new route ascent on the lower west face (from ground level) no bolts or easy grade 10 lines from ground level were found which indicates the higher start.

Start somewhere left of the beginning of the water worn gully used to scramble up used to access the Halfway Ledge, the Abseil Gully and Vertigo.

1. 13m Walk L along rotten ledge. Round corner to bolt, then up.

2. 32 m Up gully on L, finishing on R to Half-way ledge.

Finish up route of choice. The topo line is a guess. Please update this if you confirm it.

Excellent climbing. Start as for West Face Direct Start.

Steeply L up line of steps to old bolt, then R to stance. Wall above to tree belay.

The topo line is a guess. Please update this if you confirm it.

An excellent modern style trad route up a series of unlikely features through a steep, intricate and pumpy weakness. Very different more sporty climbing compared to most other rock on the spires.

Might be one star at present as it still has lots of loose rock on it after the first ascent. However, after a good clean on abseil or more ascents, it will offer solid and superb rock.

Protection is fiddly and intricate to place but entirely adequate with modern tactics. Long slings and double ropes are essential. Med RPs, full rack plus double cams up to BD/WildCountry(WC) No.1, critical micro cams (WC 0.1 to 0.2).

Led ground up by Simmo with 1 rest below the crux, after all the obvious foot and hand holds kept breaking off !

Shares the same start as More Than a Pretty Face and Meet Me At The Crux.

Start at ground level at a small right-leaning overlap about 80 m down the scree gully and overhung blocky wall that extends from Belougery Pinnacle. This is where the orange and grey stone on the left meets water-streaked black and white blocky stone under the lowest point of the Vee emerging from the first large vegetated ledge on the spire.

Breach the overlap going left through a small ledge where a grass tree (Xanthorrhoea) is growing (sneaky good 0.5 WC cam), with delicate and committing moves to pull into the bottom grooves of More Than a Pretty Face, med bomber RP and 0.75 WC higher up.

Begin an intricate right traverse across the black and white blocky water-streaked rock to gain a small corner below rooflet. Excellent but fiddly wires and micro cams. Treat all footers and hand holds with much caution until it gets more cleaned up.

Sort out more excellent but intricate wires and micro cams from the corner, then commit to the cryptic and pumpy crux through the rooflet, then trend back left over the pumpy bulge, bomber micro cam, to strenuously gain a finger crack and easier ground.

Re-compose and follow the line of least resistance trending slightly right up the divine and still thought-provoking, water-worn stone to the lowest part of the Vee of the large lower vegetated ledge. Good wires and med cams.

Another excellent contemporary style route added by Simm_o and Rick during 2022. Led onsight ground up. P1 Rick, P2 Simm_o.

Follows a series of funky grooves and cracks on the lower pitch to a steep bulging and exposed finger crack on the upper pitch with easier corners and face climbing to the top.

Double standard rack. Double ropes reccommended.

Currently marred by some appalling rock and dicey but easy moves at the beginning of pitch 2. However, after a further clean on abseil (and potentially but not necessarily a bolt), it will offer excellent climbing up a strong line.

Start as for 'More Than a Pretty Face' and 'Fan Tail'.

P1 grade 20, 25 m - After gaining the beginning of the grooves shared by 'More Than a Pretty Face', follow the first groove and crack up then step delicately right into a trench above and right (take care on some still loose rock). Good med cams and wires. More delicate moves to exit up and left out of the trench onto easier ground. Up to belay ( small/med cams and wires) on the right end (facing in) of an orange ledge next to the righthand of two small figs.

P2 grade 20, 40 m - From the belay move delicately along the (at present very loose blocky) ledge and balance up to place a decent high small wire just up and right of the second fig. Step back down off the ledge and gingerly but easily hand traverse left across precarious loose blocks and poor pro to the end of the ledge. More easy but dicey moves up to gain bomber gear in the start of the finger crack proper.

Follow the finger crack (crux) 8m through a series of exposed bulges and balancy moves with excellent small wires and cams, to pull over a final bulge to a rest.

Follow the easier well protected corners up until a rooflet caps the last corner.

Escape the roofs to the right by a committing step right onto the face (great small/med cams) then up another 20m over easier well protected ground trending slightly right to belay stances where the buttress rounds over into the large vegetated gully.

An appealing line with quality climbing. Start on the lower West Face (below the Halfway Ledge), about 2/3 way down the scree descent towards Pegasus and 60m right of that route.

1. 25m Hand traverse left onto the brown wall, move up onto block and easily left 5m to crack (runners). Climb wall on right then up groove and right wall to ledge.

2. 22m (crux) Traverse left over loose rock and up to shallow corner. Up past fig to belay below roof.

3. 22m Continue up corner to roof and traverse left onto blocky wall. Straight up superb rock to where the cliff lays back.

4. 50m Easily up the ridge to the halfway Ledge.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

Goes up the north west buttress for about 150m to the terrace, then takes a line between the upper part of Scunge Gully and Vertigo.

Start: The first obvious entry to the cliff on the way down from the pinnacle to the start of Scunge Gully i.e. roughly 30 metres right of Scunge Gully.

1. 21m Steeply leftwards up ramp below a red wall crowned by overhangs.

2. 27m To top of ramp, then step left from the corner to outflank overhangs. 2 old pitons at belay.

3. 33m Look out for the fixed bearing race! Up right hand wall of corner. Step right at about 9m to avoid overhangs. Up into groove which trends rightwards. Chockstone.

4. 30m Good chockstone at the head of the groove, up right and over bulges. Then right to a detached block.

5. 27m Left to shallow groove, thence easy ground to tree.

6. 21m Avoid vegetated gully by steep slabs behind tree. Cross the terrace.

7. 34m The fault line which starts midway between Vertigo and the upper half of Scunge Gully is followed steeply up right. Some loose rock before stepping left and up on good rock. To avoid the horror rock on this pitch, it is possible to traverse off right into Vertigo at about half height.

8. 60m Another 12m leads to Tourist Traverse.

If you want to do the Quality crux pitch of Caucasus Corner and skip the loose blocks above then this is the route for you. After Pitch 5 on the large green ledge walk 50m north to the join Pegasus's last two pitches.

Start about 30m right of Scunge Gully.

1. 45m (14) Up for 9m, then diagonally left and up to the foot of a corner sloping steeply right.

2. 26m (17) Up corner to bush then step left and up 5m to comfortable belay ledge

3. 36m (13) Out left to the rib and up easily to the right hand base of the projecting buttress (the base of the corner). Somewhat loose.

4. 28m (16) Traverse right and up steep wall to the right of corner. Belay on ledge above small layback.

5. 21m (14) Up corner and finish through loose blocks. Scramble up to large green ledge. (First ascent party camped here!)

6. 33m (15) Traverse left and slightly down (delicate) across the wall, across to foot of huge corner. Resist temptation to go high , although it looks like it is easier and has more pro you will be disappointed in both departments. The desperate looking wall offers lots of nice hidden protection and good incut holds.

7. 24m (15) Up corner to belay on block under impending wall on left. (beneath rotten rock bridge)

8. 18m (14) Out right, avoid loose blocks and up wall. The original route went to (peg) stance below an overhang on the right but this belay offers limited protection (other than the peg). A better alternative is to look for a belay to the left of the corner.

9. 24m (14) Diagonally left (loose blocks) through the line of weakness across the face leading out to the arete. Good ledge on extreme edge. Peg belay 2m above.

10. 21m (14) Round corner to left and past first groove. Up second groove to ledge.

11. 21m (14) Up to right then from peg in small corner go up nose on left and into groove. Belay on a big ledge on the right, under small overhangs.

12. 33m (15) Right and swing through overhangs. Left and up to peg, then on to summit.

When at top there is a 10m abseil into gully then one more short scramble/pitch to true summit.

Where CC moves left out of the corner buckle up and blast straight up the line and overlaps above past 4(?) well spaced fixed hangers and trad. On an earlier attempt pre bolts the leader fell 30m to land largely unharmed (physically at least) on the slabs below the belayer. He then promptly gave up climbing! The other half of the party returned, placed minimal hardware and finished the job.

Start midway between Scunge Gully and Caucasus Corner, below buttress.

1. 40 m Up to slab at 15 m. Traverse R below steepening, then up to Caucasus Corner first belay.

2. 25 m (crux) From below belay, move L to lip of undercut buttress, then up to base of orange crack. Now L, then steep wall. A glorious pitch.

3. 35 m Buttress to Caucasus Corner third belay.

4. 15 m Shattered groove to tree and ledge on L of prow.

5. 30 m Wall on L of prow starting near arete, the middle of face. Poor pro. Take small cams.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

One of the longest climbs in the 'Bungles. A good deal harder if the final chimney can't be squeezed! Start: Above the scunge (in the centre) of the north face, up scrubby gully, to chimney leading right.

1. 12m Up to large Moreton Bay figs.

2. 33m Delicate, then up through scrub.

3. 15m Right towards rib, can stop in corner.

4. 24m To large platform. Belay on rib.

5. 9m Up left to peg.

6. 24m Continue up to tree.

7. 18m Long stretch to the gully and up (?).

8. 24m Up, some rotten rock.

9. 27m One comes to a bush!!

10. 24m To the conspicuous chimney.

11. 24m To a good chockstone.

12. 15m Up chimney (13) or outside it (15), more exposed over rotten rock to stance.

13. 27m Up, then easily to right.

14. 24m Pleasant little walls.

15. 21m Pleasant Sunday strolling!!

Pleasant and varied.

1. 50 m Start up Scunge Gully for 20 m, than buttress on L.

2. 40 m Buttress and chimney-gully on R.

3. 25 m (crux) Chimney to orange alcove. Take L-most line to buttress, then up to small ledge.

4. 30 m Buttress and loose crack to base of orange headwall.

5. 20 m Traverse 6 m L, then up orange groove to bottom of chimney. Loose.

6. 28 m Chimney.

7. 40 m Move R to buttress. Cracks to piton.

8. 40 m As for Caucasus Corner.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

Rattles around a bit but eventually gets there. Starts as for Scunge Gully and finishes on Out and Beyond.

1. 35m Up to scunge then leftwards up buttress as for Napawi. Belay at sprawling fig.

2. 50m Continue up buttress for about 15m then leftwards on a rising traverse across brown wall. The objective is to get past the overhanging orange headwall above. The last 10m go straight up and straight left to semi hanging belay in crack (this is the top of the huge orange gash left of Scunge Gully, with white bird marks just below the belay).

3. 40m Traverse left into chimney. When it closes down, traverse left into another chimney. Up to top, step left and up to bushy ledge.

4. 50m Move up small buttress on left then back right above overhang. Climb bushy groove or cleaner buttress to big scrubby ledge. Straight up behind ledge to belay on brown blocky wall.

5. 40m Up left to short chimney. Up to top then up trending left to two old pitons (6th belay of Out and Beyond).

6-7) 80m As for Out and Beyond. Rising traverse up right towards wide corner, back left to pitons on ledge below left end of overhang, traverse left below overhang into groove and up.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

Magnificent. Start at the lowest point of the face, under prominent pinnacle. Easy slabs lead up 60m to a prominent pinnacle.

1. 24m Climb onto the "bridge" between the pinnacle and the face via a short wall R.H. corner south of the pinnacle - vicious fight with scrub at top. N.B. This pitch may be avoided by a long traverse along a scrubby ledge, higher up from the left.

2. 36m Most novel! From top of pinnacle, carefully bridge the 2m gap to face short wall, then a long delicate, exposed traverse to the right to a large broken boulder.

3. 30m Upwards.

4. 30m Right, then up through scrub.

5. 30m General scrub-bash, or else rock to the left.

6. 30m Magnificent rock wall to right of L.H. corner system. (See direct finish)

7. 9m Traverse right and up delicately, to stance.

8. 30m Traverse right, back up left to airy belay beneath overhang.

9. 30m Cunningly avoid overhang by rightward traverse above corner. Easier to top.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it].

The corner system on Out and Beyond, pitch six.

6a) 27 m Crack-corner.

7a) 48 m The line.

Start: Scramble down about 60 m from Belougery Pinnacle to the large right-tending, vegetated, rising ledge system below a steep orange wall. The original route started from the ground about 100 m down from the Pinnacle but given the poor rock quality low down it is easier (and better) to traverse in on the ledge to what was the original start of Pitch 5. Scramble or climb 100 m or so up and over the top of the ledge to the base of the huge right leaning corner system.

1. 27m Buttress on right to tree.

2. 36m Traverse left 3m into gully, thence up (18m) and traverse right to a large slab. Up right to a gully sloping left.

3. 33m Up gully then back right to piton.

4. 27m Up left then back right to strong tree.

5. 27m To summit ridge.

[The topo line may be incorrect. Please update it. In fact, it isnt even clear if it goes to the summit ridge on the left or right at the end...]. The length of the route seems too short too.

The original first three pitches are described below but there are many variations to access the main corner system if you choose this direct option.

1. 30m Up a vertical, right facing, 12m chimney then out right till stopped by an overhang. Awkwardly back into the chimney and squeeze up.

2. 18m Scramble left to base of small corner.

3. 27m To small ledge then on rotten rock to overhang. Left around nose then up to tree trunks.

4. 30m Scramble around and up right into gully bearing right

One of endless variants to gain the main, upper corner system if you start on ground, rather than the main ledge. Start 10m right of the East Face Route (original start).

Dark, mossy corner tending left; poor pro. Up to pocket, then up right. Now back left to join East Face Route at tree (original pitch 1 or 2).

As for East Face Route for 20 m, then rising traverse L across If The Spirit Moveth and finally across Doctor Dark's Chimney up high.

[The topo line is a complete guess. Please update it].

Some contrived scrambling to an amazing chimney pitch with simple quality climbing to the top. Slight amounts of bushbashing. DO NOT DO WHEN WET, the chimney is dark and mossy and is probably unclimbable within a few days of serious rain, Otherwise good when dry.

1. 40m (6) starts at the lowest most northern part of the cliff. Easy scramble up white chossy rock to the left. Head towards the detached pinnacle. Belay at a small ledge with a large cave to the right.

2. 25m (10) Pull over the easy mantle off the ledge and follow wandering line of least resistance south towards the visible peak detached from the main wall. past tree and bushes. Belay on top of pillar with shattered large blocks.

3. 20m (5) Go left along the natural bridge between pillar and wall up to corner on the right at base of crack.

4. 20m (14) Up wide slightly overhanging crack top out on left and push back to main wall. Belay in a grassy 3m gap between the orange main wall and the darker detached pillar.

5. 20m walk left through the bush following the main wall till tree with old sling and carabiner. Belay off the tree.

6. 25m (14) Go left till the ledge drops away, up left over somewhat tricky moves with good gear. Continue up good rock trending slightly right towards obvious dark chimney. Smash through grass and bush for last 5m. Belay in the chimney.

7. 30m (12) smash up an awesome chimney, with good gear in the back. Pull over the top and head directly back following the wall through grass. belay off large loose block on ledge. careful to not drop any rocks onto belayer stuck in chimney

8. 20m (10) couple of hard moves straight left off the belay over small wall onto grassy ledge. Walk back to the next wall and then 5m left to the obvious crack system.

9. 25m (14) straight up following crack. Past old piton towards bush on ledge below next crack.

10. 30m (17) continue up the obvious crack feature, gets steep towards the top. Be careful what you stand on as there are a couple of loose blocks. pull over the slight overhang and then straight up trending right to belay on the small ledge right before the wall gets vertical.

11. 60m (12) A rope stretcher, may be better done in two pitches if there is time. Head horizontally right for 30m with good gear until darker and more bushy rock. Then smash up through an easy but unprotected bush to top out.

Start on NW side of pinnacle (away from Belougery Spire).

Up through small roofs.