Routes as trad in Family Rock Slabs

Goto west side of slab, above large square cut block at sea level and identify the v shape groove cut out of flake. Abseil to there using two to three raps. Find track that skirts beneath large boulders to find first set of rap anchors. Set up new raps where ever possible as the face has limited protection. Once at bottom, slab climb your way out of there. There is very limited protection, with one or two pieces per pitch, and up is the only way out. No one will hear your screams. Bold.

The thin left-trending crack that makes up the left side of the big 'V'.

1. 40m (12)

2. 20m (12)

3. 40m (14)

Up the middle of the slab from the start of ;Just Jazzin'and finishing as for 'Born again Crustacean'. Bolt plates are required, as is a small purple cam or TCU for the top pitch.

P1: 45m, 16 From the DBB at the start of teh diagonal crack ('Just Jazzin') climb slightly right and up to belay on horizontal ledge (again DBB) - 8 BR's

P2: 45m, 13 Meandering pitch to belay on the right of the big overlap (DBB; there is a DBB also half way) - 7 BR's

P3: 25m, 11 Up past 2 Br's to flake (cam). Another BR 3m above the flake blow last steep step (DBB) - 3 BR's

Start on ledge on the left side of the broken pillar, just above the boulders.

P1: 45m, 12 Move up slab to belay at the left trending crack (crab crawl).

P2: 45m, 5 Up the easy left trending crack

P3: 40m, 13 Continue up crack past a BR 4m before the crack closes. Past two more BR's before the line rises then traverse left along ledge to DBB.

P4: Up past two BR's to flake (small cam), then another BR after 3m just below the last steep step. 3 BR's