Routes as trad in Sphinx Rock

The next nine routes are on the long and narrow boulder behind the Sphinx proper.

The first route on the left hand end of the boulder. Don’t fall off, there isn’t any gear… Bridge onto the wall then up until a few moves right are necessary to gain a small ledge just below the top. Nut and SLCD belay. FA: Scott Camps (Solo) April 1986

Not well protected either. Start in the middle of the wall as per Snow White. Head diagonally left to a shallow runner slot, before continuing left on jugs until it is possible to move up and right to finish.

Steep and strenuous, overhanging about two metres over ten. Starts on the opposite side of the causeway about twenty metres right of Vagabond. From the bolt step left over the void and head steeply up past a second bolt and slinging a spike. Step left and up the water streak to finish.

From Vakula The Smith, scramble around to eastern side of the opposite boulder. To the left of the chimney is an arête.

Up with difficulty to the huge jug on the arête and then continue up the slab to the top.

Up the obvious chimney (to the left of Alex in Wonderland) to the rap station.

Four metres right of Alex In Wonderland head up to a bolt via a hollow sounding flake and then on to a small ledge on the right. Left and up past two more bolts. SLCD belay. Rap as for Alex In Wonderland.

Fantastic clean overhanging splitter crack found down gully from Space and Energy block. Hands to offwidth. Toprope, trad lead or boulder problem, it's up to you.