This route is actually a condensation of pitches from separate routes by Rick & Rob. Pitch 1 is Rick's Yoni, after this, it morphs into Rob's Jug City and_?
5 pitches of (in reality) mundane climbing in a rather spectacular position.
17m 15 - Off the flat rock (the "coffee table"), up the obvious crack & weakness left, to to ledge & trad belay.
35m 17 - From the belay, you should be able to spot a small overhang with a semicircular waterstain beneath. The route passes right of this, then angle left towards a large belay ledge & DBB.
42m 18 - A poorly protected, airy pitch, that ends in a hanging belay. Traverse Right, along the belay ledge a few metres, then angle up Right to join an obvious line of weakness. Continue up & over a slight bulge, trending Right to a hanging belay (nest of wires), at a small ledge. (NB: do not be tempted to head left into the big corner & off-width!)
25m 17 - From the hanging belay, traverse Right a few metres, then angle up towards the prominent rock horn. Mantle onto the horn & avoid the manky vegetated groove by a juggy mantle onto the ledge on the Left. Continue trending up Right, to belay in a wide groove between a tree (?) & the wall.
12m 10 - Exit over easy bulges until safe ground is reached.
Descent options:
A) Walk off from here: follow the watercourse up to the Saddle, then the hiker's track back down.
Traverse carefully (harness & long sling on), in Left over a large boulder to the carrot bolt on top. Clipping into this (bolt plate), traverse across the gap to the DBB rap station. Next DBB is about 45-50m on the face Left. Next DBB is about 30m on the large belay ledge. From here about 35-40m to the ground. (NB: the topo does NOT show the second rap point as it is not on the route.)
From the ledge overlooking Waterfall Wall (Grogan Wall), a bold traverse across the face of the waterfall to the outcrop on the otherside. Make your way up this to top.
Do not attempt this climb after rain as the waterfall remains wet.
A bold route through some mega-exposed territory.
(Description provided to me & shown on photo by the late Kevin Pearl.)