Routes as sport in Mt Stuart

Possibly the first bolted climb at Mt Stuart. Could have originally been done as an aid climb.

Rumour has it that there was climbing done on Mt Stuart in the 1970s. The only evidence was this large boulder with a line of three rusty bolts, which stands 20m back from the Playground cliffline. The Playground at that time still had a lot of loose rock and vegetation on it, and was thought that there was no climbing on the cliff face until 1981.

No anchors on the top.

p1. Another sustained climb on excellent rock. Start 3m L of PM below a ledge and large scoop. Climb up and L, following the line of bolts to the crux. Pull up R, then hard L to a big fin and then to the chains. p2. Straight up from the anchor to the summit. Fully bolted since December 2021

True king line of Stuart, all the best parts mixed into one route! FFA was done from ground rather then from the anchors of P1 on Midlife Crisis.

A direct start to Mainstage, one main boulder right into where it all kicks off. The start of the route isn't so hard.

A boulder problem on a rope, probably height dependant. Don't forget to clip!

Pretty tricky movements down low to some interesting holds up high. Better off just going to Harvey's Marbles.

Technical slightly slabbed climbing following the bolts.

Rap off the chains at top of The Pinnacle down to tree about 20m down where the semi-hanging anchor is. Pull the rope and follow the bolts to end up on big ledge on the left and follow through the cave to an opening. Sling a boulder to make a belay. If you don't like run outs this top part probably isn't for you can feel very exposed. Originally meant to go straight up the face and back to chains but Mark ran out of bolts.

Starts a few metres left of Black Widow.

Intimidating. A fine climb with a thoughtful and sequency crux. Climb up the crack to the first roof, which is ascended on the R and continue up through the second and third roofs to the chains.

A flaky arête about 22m L of M. Requires a gentle touch.

1. 30m 23. Start just L of arete and enjoy long and interesting climbing past 8 BRs to a DBB. Switches to R side of the arete after 8th BR.

2. 10m 16. More of the same past 2 BRs.

To the left of Spontaneous Ritual is a wall. Blast up this to glory.

Start on "Fist Full of Ants"and move right to the arete (using trad pro) then up through two small roofs then up finger flake on the right past 3 carrots to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

For a while the hardest route on Mt Stuart. Up the wall a few metres R of SP through the biggest section of roof and straight up. Numerous FH's

Start in the middle of the rock and follow a straight line up. The crux it just below the top cliff.

Start as BOMF, following line of bolts trending right and finishing up AF. Unsure of grade, so if you get on it please list what you think it is.

When too much fun is really is too much. A bouldery start at the R of the black streak to good holds, L past the 2nd bolt and R after the 3rd into the luminous lichen and a sequential crux L past the 4th and 5th bolt to finish up the face R of TMFs last bolt which you can clip if you want. You can also do this asa variant finish to TMF, joining it at AFs 2nd bolt.

Short and sweet. The short face with 3 FHs up hill in the gully. L of the chimney and starts in the little corner on the L. DRBB lower off now on side of pinnacle for this route.

Start as "Gone in 60 Seconds" then trend left at the FH half way up.

Slightly overhanging face climb on thin often chossy crimps. Two bolts and anchors added Jan 2018 for top half.

Start 2m right of "Gone in 60 Seconds" on 3 ring bolts then followed by 5 plates. This had to get completed eventually.

A bouldery direct start to any of the 3 previous routes. Up to the 1st bolt, over the roof and diagonally past it. Don't fall clipping the 2nd bolt as you may hit the tree.

Straight up into the Martin traverse and up past the bolts. DBB. (originally natural anchor from boulders and chockstone).

Excellent thin wall with the crux at the top. Wicked from start to finish. Scramble up ramp rising up on L, which is about 10m R of JB, to big ledge with trees; this is is the base of the route.

Can be done with or without bridging at the start. The left wall is used a few times to bridge in the lower half of the route. Climb up the sustained wall just R of the chimney Eridanus passing six FH's. Crux is near the top.

Start up E, R after the 1st bolt and up past several FHs. Bridge R at the first bolt and take some RPs for between the bolts if you like.

Starting on the arête to the left of "Par 3". This fun climb is a mega classic with spectacular views and providing a true feeling of exposure. This awe inspiring climb offering excellent photo opportunities with powerful starting moves and an interesting mix of crimps and balancey high block steps for the rest, up to the lower-off.

Start 1m right of Warlock. Finishes above the obvious cave. Boulder problem on a rope.

Link from Par 3 straight up for 3 more bolts and into Warlock anchors.

On the right face from looking at the blank slab close to arete. 3 bolts and anchor.

Questionable at best.. ha ha.

Closed project, please stay off

From NFSATJ, walk right and continue around the corner. The route goes up the pillar at the border of The Fortress and The Neutral Zone, about 6m L of "PU"[13476073]. Ascend the steep pillar with four 45 degree FHs and finish on the same upper terrace as the start of RW and BR.

On pinnacle direct across from Pleasure Unit start. Has a tree growing over the start. No anchor at top.

3m left of Unknown Name 1 just around arete. No anchor at top.

Descend to lower ledge to start. This line has it all - laybacks, face, technical corner, arête and a spicy slab to finish.

Top shelf climbing up the pumpy, pocketed wall.

Shares the first 2 RB of Equilibre Instable extended the second RB, then Traverse left to line of FH's. Short but punchy with heart breaker to finish.

A series of balancy boulders separated by rests. Take care of the cruxy move leaving the halfway ledge.

Much more than your average crimp ladder, several aesthetic rails and unlikely kneebars guide the way through this sustained quest.

The photogenic orange arete with two boulders separated by classic technical moves.

Up black wall through small roof then follow FH going left. Not sure if there is any anchors at top. Can't remember the names of the routes...Rik and Mark climbed these soon after succeeding on Uncertain Fate. Lost contact with Rik...

Same start as "Unknown Name 1" to 3rd FH then follow the right line of FH.

Located about 25m L of "Deliverance"[13477921] just between "Great Wall"[12248785] & "Colorado Wall", the route starts on the 5m high, free-standing rock pillar and ascends the overhanging, pocketed main wall.

1. 15m 24. Start by bridging across between the pillar and the main wall to clip the first of six FHs. Sustained climbing up the seam with huecos leading to a ledge and double rings.

2. 16m 21. Up the left side of giant flake to gain featured orange groove.

Access via 35m rap from bolts above Lionsgate. Exceptionally steep and pumpy by Stuart standards.

3m R of CRH. Tough boulder though the initial steepness then continuous climbing up the flakey wall.

Classic sports route for the grade. Crux at beginning for some. After last bolt, move right around the final roof and bolt of chains DBB. They are hidden from above so not good for access to the wall.

Short, powerful and pumpy.

Your first mission, should you choose to accept it, is to get to the 3rd bolt. From here make your choice and rendezvous to the UTR anchor on the right or the SM anchor on the left.

Your first mission, should you choose to accept it, is to get to the 3rd bolt. From here make your choice and rendezvous to the UTR anchor on the right or the SM anchor on the left.

Features a reachy move - "Come on span man, span that thing!"

Cruxy start on small crimps, floods in the wet!

Who doesn't like a spicy finish? At the second last bolt traverse left and into the corner. Once you are in the corner then come back right onto the exposed juggy face to reach the anchor.

After a powerful mid section, take your time to read the rock at the top.

Quest up the featured trench and join right into the finish of Rust in Peace.

Punchy boulder crux.

Operation pumper with an explosive finish.

Flows nicely on crimpy solid rock.

Crux-less, sustained climbing. Start as for SQ for first 4 bolts then trend left to link in to DBP.

Sustained and continuous line on small holds leading to a reachy and juggy finish.

The MEGA link up! Starts up first two bolts of DBP, then diagonally R across the entire wall to finish at UTR.

Steep, long and powerful. Grade 27 if you avoid using the jug shield to the right at the 6th bolt of Death by Parsnip.

The fig tree at the start is in. Trend slightly left at the roof below the anchor for finish crux to anchor jugs.

Shares same finish as Pressure Drop.

Climbs the prominent arete which is surprisingly featured! A brilliant climb with a challenging start. Recommend to clip the 2nd bolt early before entering the start crux moves to the obvious ledge above. The optional two bolt extension ('Turn to Gold') is thin, and goes at grade 24.

It's better, down where it's steeper, under the vines!

Sustained and requires you to keep at it

Starts up the black section with obvious two finger pocket.

A killer finish, strong fingers required!

Climbs the striking arete!

Shares same 1st three bolts as Slab Ambassadors and then traverses right onto the arete and shares same anchor as Devocean. Optional grade 21 finish if traverse left at end via one extra bolt to reach Slab Ambassadors anchor.

After 1st 3 bolts trends left. A slabtastic finish and a must do for any slab connoisseur!

The crimpy start moves can be bypassed by entering via the Mr Brownstone crack to the left.

Climbs up the exposed and bouldery arete.

The final evolution, has a flying start.

The evolution of Charmander, shares the Charmander anchor. Starts on steep and fiery face left of the arete.

Short and exposed finish. Significantly easier finish if you go right and then traverse left along top jugs to reach the anchor.

Finger lock the stop-a-block.

An excellent crag warm up and beginner climb, using the fig tree at the start is part of the delight!

Direct start to Rainbow Drop. Starts 2m left on the goldish rock and links into RD after 6 bolts.

Originally went R to the top through the splitter crack. Much more pleasant to repeat using the added bolts and the anchor located under the roof.

Ventures through the overhanging roof.

Joins briefly into the Golden ticket finish jug and then traverses out right and up the magical headwall for a fairy-tale finish!

Features it's own golden ticket move half way up.

A magnificent climb! Starts up the steep and short wall around the corner at ground level located below the main arete. Mantle onto the ledge and then journey up the inspiring and technical arete. Trend left for finish moves to anchor.

Climbs up to the technical open book corner.

At the ledge before the anchor climb to the left for an easier finish. Grade 21 if you climb direct up arete using the right hand face ('Purple Rain' finish).