Routes as sport in Lion's Head

Excellent climbing, through varied moves, sequences and hidden holds - there is a potential dyno move...can be mitigated by stemming and using a small crimp!

Climb the arete and the face on the very left side of the ledge.

F.A. Martin Suchma

Left of Ladyslipper.

Technical climbing with a footwork crux

Climb is located in the (climber's) left side of the ledge in black rock. Fun!

Great techy climb, long! Moves through thin crimpy section high up. On (climber's) right side of ledge.

Nice start leads to hidden sequence , left or right, it goes. Then pocket sequence crux at top to a big move to a jug.

On the Manitou ledge - which is the higher ledge to climber's left atop Mandate ledge. Climb the tree and use the rope to get up. Easiest way out, is to lower off the climb once done, down to Mandate ledge.

Climber's left of Scalphunter on the Manitou ledge.

Hidden holds and specific sequence unlock the seemingly intimidating start of this climb. If it feels harder than Scalphunter, keep looking!!

Great route. Located at the very (climber's) left of the chossy ledge. Climbs through chains. Clip into first chain and unclip after traversing to clip the second chain to save drag.

Powerful and bouldery in almost its entirety. Great moves, just have to commit! Climb is located at farthest (climber's right) of the chossy ledge. Starts at obivous "fin" feature in the seam. This route is wet early in the season - it gets dryer and dryer through August - September.

Climb is located on (climber's) very left side of ledge.

Bouldery start through large flake on sidepulls and then moves onto some smaller holds on face.

Hanging belay. Very exposed.

Lions Heads classic moderate line. Rap off the left side of the lookout and charge up the dihedral at the base to the high first bolt. Pitch 2 is a cruiser 5.10a, with lovely exposure, but requires some questing for hidden bolts.

Tricky first move so clip the first bolt on the way to the hanging belay

F.A. Bob Bennell, Cinta Bennell

Now has a ground start. Rap spot is marked with a blue M for the hanging belay.

F.A. Bob Bennell, Cinta Bennell

Now has a ground start. Look for the namesake pipe on route.

Can be located at top of cliff by blue letter "C" painted on the rock.

Great face climbing through thin holds with a steep finish. When I last checked (summer '14), all bolts were rusty and hanging belay had some old webbing. Take care if you decide to lead this route (HANGING BELAY). Else, I recommend either rope soloing or toprope.

Middle exit. Exposed traverse. Start just left of the Crucible tree.

Right exit. Exposed traverse. Start just left of the Crucible tree.

Furthest left exit. Exposed traverse. Start just left of the Crucible tree.

A fantasic route unlike anything else on the cliff. Do some tricky moves getting over to a fused corner.

Black rock vertical slab crux.

Height dependent cruxes. Immaculate rock.

Sport route just 8 feet left of a prominent offwidth crack. A short face climb leads to a right tending hand crack. Be sure to mantel before traversing too far right, otherwise you will end up on the aforementioned offwidth Trad route. Flowy gym like climbing to the anchors with great movement and power.

Start right of the offwidth crack of "Boys Cracking up"

Variation of 30 Years in the Making. Exit right.

Reach dependant boulder crux on Lorelai boulder at the beach.

Classic line at the Lorelai beach.

Rightmost of the three lines on the Lorelai beach.

Dihedral feature low to roofs.

Start about 7m left of “Drunken Master” on top a huge pile of chossAn outstanding line. Start on the clean vertical face 5m left of the previous route. Grab a good rest then tackle the steeper ground above. Keep trending right through amazing features. Stick-clip the first bolt and head right after the second bolt. This route will stay dry in the rain.

A line bolted by Mark Smith. It finishes under the huge roof between Batman and Express.

Start about 7m left of “Drunken Master” on top a huge pile of choss. Stick-clip the first bolt and head right after the second bolt. This route will stay dry in the rain.

Start on “Drunken Master”. After the crux of that route head left across wild exposed terrain above the huge roof of “Batman”. Jump.

Long and varied route that features a sub anchor for lowering. Possible to multipitch, but far better style to send it as a long continuous pitch. Top out and sub anchors.

A beautiful climb for a full 35m, Techy and totally natural. Start from the ground 4m east of Titan

Start on “Titan” and traverse into Man in Me after pulling over the lip. Use long draws to avoid rope drag.

Link up. Start as Man in Me and traverse into the upper headwall of Titan after the good holds.

The first 5.14 in Ontario

Left most line on the Lost at Sea Ledge sharing a common slab start with Lost at Sea and Dandelion Whine. Left trending slab leads to multiple pockets and small slab sections before finishing on overhanging large jug style pockets.

Starts from ledge from a slab into some steep climbing in Hueco-like holds. Fun! ... but not for the average beginner!

Right most line on the Lost at Sea Ledge sharing a common start with Lost at Sea and New Way Out. Short slab start leads to tricky two finger pocket sequences, then a short slab section before finishing on overhanging large jug style pockets.

A classic at Lion's Head. Climbs the black rock on the right side of the ledge.

Top down (hanging belay) original variation of "I Wonder Where the Hanging Belays Are".

Newer ground up variation of "I Wonder Where the Lions Are". This short ground up extension lengthens the single pitch to roughly 30m and increases the grade.

Same start as I Wonder Where the Lion's Are, but breaks right. Hard at the end.

L'hommage to the legend John Weir.

Unclimbed project that breaks left off of Grey Matter.