Routes as trad in Morfydd Wall

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Showing all 34 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
24 Rocky

Start up high in 'Major Mitchell Gully', above the massive boulder, and opposite 'Brontosaurus' (described under 'Dunes' Buttress). May in fact be right up at the top of the gully on a small block when the gully is very narrow and further up than Brontosaurus (on opposite wall, but not directlyopposite.) From the bottom left of the small wall, step up R then up the left hand line.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

Trad 12m
23 Bullwinkle

Start 1.5 metres right of Rocky. Up out to the RH arete, take this to the buckets, then go L and up seam to a block.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Greg Pritchard, 1993

Trad 12m
18 Natchez Trace

A sloping corner crack then jam through the overhang at the top.

Start: Start above 'Trench Warfare', under a little wall which faces 'Dunes Buttress' and is on the same level as the start of 'Thunder Crack' (which is described under the 'Bluff Major' section). Easiest access is to rap in after getting to the top either by scrambling up the wall opposite 'Missing Link' or by walking in from the Bluff lookout car park.

FA: Rod Young & Jeremy Boreham, 1977

Trad 15m
26 Anxious Boys with Power Toys

Plenty of angst here.

Start: Start 10m up L from 'Trench Warfare'.

FA: Gordon Poultney, Donna Bridge & David Jones + 1, 1993

Mixed 15m, 2
24 Trench Warfare

Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to thrutch leftwards up the long diagonal, starting with a tricky traverse in from the L, and finishing rather strenuously.

Start: Start towards the uphill end of the wall, although quite a way down from the massive boulder which blocks the gully.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Tony Marian, 1980

Trad 35m
19 Firedance

The subtle weakness in frictional rock 20m up left from Deeply Techo. Lots of gear if you can hang out to place it; small wires are very handy

Start: Start 20m up L from DT.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Keith Egerton, 1977

Trad 15m
19 Bearbrass

Some nice rock and climbing in the shade and close to camp. The ledge below the crux slab makes it advisable to break into two pitches. Start as for Firedance.

  1. 23m 16 Up a couple of metres until able to move right onto the obvious traverse line which rapidly eases (make sure to protect the second ). After 10 or 12 metres of traversing right, move up right of a bushy crack and up grey wall (FH, tiny cams) to ledge below black slab.

  2. 10m 19 Off block up centre of black slab. Travel light, 2 FH and a wire or two. 30m abseil.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Steve Greig, 19 Feb 2018

Mixed 33m, 2, 3
24 Deeply Techo

Climb boldly to first bolt then traverse left to second bolt. Employ some inventive footwork to reach the alcove, a good rest and a nest of gear. Take a breath then move left and motor up on slopers to the top.

Start: Start as for 'Feral Chicken'.

FA: Mike Law, 1981

Trad 20m
22 Feral Chicken

Climb warily to first ring bolt on good holds (or stick clip if you're from NSW or like your ankles). Move right a move and up to (often seeping) pocket. Continue upwards via bomber gear to a horizontal. Move up past perfect wire slot, then head left into corner past large scar and some tricky moves on slopes to finish.

Start: Start 3m L of L.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1980

Mixed 20m, 1
23 Feral Chicken Direct Finish

An unlikely sequence of good moves. After the original crux, continue straight up the wall to the anchors.

FA: Glenn Tempest, 7 Mar 2017

Mixed 20m, 1
25 Feral Fee-box

Fridge hugging.

Start: Start 2m R of FC.

FA: Gordon Poultney & Chris Shepherd + 3, 1994

Mixed 12m, 3
15 Lennox

Start under the chimney in the centre of the wall.

Thrash up the steep flaring chimney, finishing right.

FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst, 1967

Trad 30m
21 Slap the Philanthropist

Good linkup of the start of Philanthropist into the finish of Slap Happy that avoids the desperately hard start of Slap Happy. Gear is pumpy to place on top wall.

Trad 30m
15 The Philanthropist

3m up 'Lennox', then head diagonally R to ledge, 2m further R, then up flake. Take lots of cams.

Start: Start as for L.

FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter, 1984

Trad 30m
24 Petrol Solutions

As for 'Slap Happy' to the ledge, then follow the bolts.

Start: Start as for SH.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Gordon Poultney, 1994

Mixed 30m, 3
23 Slap Happy

Short crack, bulge past bolt and gain the ledge near the R end of The Philanthropist's diagonal. Continue straight up the thin crack above the ledge.

Start: Start 2m R of L.

FA: Chris Shepherd & Rod Young, 1980

Mixed 30m, 1
23 Kool Aid

Up the slab L of Kincaid to a desperate slap for a jug. Finish L of Kincaid if you can be bothered (contrived). Just toproped off the chains.

FA: Douglas Hockly, 2010

Trad 20m
18 Kinkaid

A sweet slab.

FA: Mike Law & Chris Baxter, 1980

Trad 20m
18 Housemaid's Knee

The L arete of the chimney, with a small yellow groove.

Start: Start just L of G.

FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter, 1985

Trad 15m
9 Gazollika

Start on the L wall, then the R. Bridge airily to an awkward and runout finish L around the roof.

Start: Start on the next buttress uphill from 'Morfydd', at a chimney with a square roof.

FA: Chris Baxter & Dorothy McManus, 1968

Trad 20m
17 Leadership Spill

Direct finish to No Place For Foxes. A little light on gear.

FA: Gareth Llewellin & Ben Carter, 8 Jan 2015

Trad 25m
15 No Place for Foxes

Start below tiny steep corner in arete R of G. Pull up the buckety arete, up to ledge and up groove.

Start: Start just R of G.

FA: Paul Daniels & Maureen Gallagher, 1984

Trad 30m
15 No Space for Boxes

From the ledge on NPFF, head up intermittant flakes leading onto the right wall and up to anchor on NS.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 8 Dec 2015

Trad 30m
24 No Standing

Very good climbing - Choose either crack to start (both tough), then follow the thin diagonal line with good gear up to and past an old piton. (pin can be backed up with modern small cams and isn't really needed any more)

Start: Start in the middle of the buttress L of 'Morfydd'.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979

Trad 25m
25 Standing on Principles

Short groove with piton to join NS. Where NS goes L, step R and up seam.

Start: Start 2m R of NS.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Kim Carrigan, 1985

Trad 20m
19 Stillborn

The line delineating the L side of the Morphydd pillar is freshly cleaned. Desperate start protected by a 1 RP leads to sustained, thought provoking crack climbing. Traverse off to NS anchors.

FA: Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst & Keith Lockwood, 1967

Trad 20m
25 Master Blaster

Just right of Stillborn, head up past pockets to intermittent crack. Written up as finishing L into the scrappy finish of 'Stillborn', or step R to finish up Morfyne (much better).

Note: The added bolts have been removed as there is good gear now with modern gear, (especially near the pin which should not be trusted by it's self), but can you hang on to place it. The High bolt on Morfyne should also be backed up.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Carole Bradley, 1980

Trad 28m
24 Morfyne

Close to 'Morfydd' at times, but still a very appealing wall.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Morfydd'.

Note: the top bolt should be backed up easy to do in the horizontal just below.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Glenn Tempest, Louise Shepherd & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Trad 30m
19 Morfydd

Not given many stars until recently, this is now widely considered one of the finest 19s at 'Arapiles'. It used to be 20 so don't expect a soft touch.

Start: Start under the prominent line up the south face of the pinnacle.

FA: John Moore & Chris Dewhirst, 1968

Trad 30m
22 Mojito

This is really Visual Laxative VS, joining VL immediately after the first bolt and retroing the crux.

FFA: Enga Lokey, 8 Aug 2016

Mixed 28m, 2
23 Visual Laxative

Accidently retoroed but probably benefits from it as it might now actually get climbed. Start 5m R of 'Morfydd'. Shallow groove to ledge then L and up concave face (crux) to second ledge. Weave R then L through juggy overhang then R up seam to finish L of arete. Some loose feeling rock.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Natalie Green, 1979

Mixed 35m, 2, 1
20 Televisual Laxative

As for Visual Laxative to the first ledge, then dodge the crux by going straight up the flake to the second ledge.

FA: Oz & Douglas Hockly, 2015

Trad 35m
12 Bygone

The retrobolt eliminated serious fall potential, making this route a must for confident leaders at the grade ... but don't expect to be sewing it up with gear every metre.

Start: The east face of the 'Morfydd' pinnacle faces the back of 'Fang Buttress'. Start under this face.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1967

Mixed 30m, 1
24 The Munchkins Stole My Water Bottle

Start: Start in the gully right of 'Bygone', below the crack near arete.

Looks rather serious.

FA: Hoskins & Smith, 1995

Trad 25m

Showing all 34 routes.