Routes as trad in Ali's Area

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
9 R Ali's Face

Probably the most descended route at 'Arapiles' (by abseilers using Ali's rap anchor). May also be the least ascended.

Start: Start 5m L of Ali's.

FA: Steve Craddock & Bob Craddock, 1964

Trad 50m
3 Ali's

Climb the corner system, which these days is laced with long lengths of fixed chains to ease the way for soloing (this being the fastest way to get up to the 'Bluffs' climbing areas). If you do decide to solo up or down it, don't underestimate the polished rock and the deathfall potential.

Start: Start 15m R of 'Bygone', under the huge left-facing corner system, behind 'Fang Buttress'.

FA: The Craddocks?, 2000

Trad 60m
10 Debut

Climb Ali's, then 'Bluff Minor'. Not great rock but a great position.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Bob Bull, John Fahey, Chris Dewhirst & John Moore, 1965

Trad 80m
26 The Dude Abides

Climb the funky roof to the left of 'Nursery Rhymes' crack passing 2 bolts. Join 'Nursery Rhymes' on the arete and follow this to where it moves right. Move left instead passing a third bolt to gain an enormous hanging jug and a cramped rest. For full value avoid the temptation to bridge out left. From the jug step back right and crank a short boulder past a final bolt before finishing straight up the delightful headwall above. Bring a full set of wires to supplement the bolts.

Start: 1m left of 'Nursery Rhymes'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

Mixed 30m, 4
25 Nursery Rhymes

Attack the awesomely steep arete just R of Ali's, starting with a roof crack, R to a bulge, the crack just L of the arete, R along a break and up the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Trad 30m
21 Directathal

Take the L leaning diagonal crack on the R side of the arete, then the arete.

Start: Start as for Ali's.

FA: Glenn Tempest & Mike Law-Smith, 1981

Trad 30m
24 Tobermory

Start: Start as for 'Directathal'

FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2010

Mixed 25m, 2
22 Meanderthal

Up the diagonal crack of D then traverse 5m R to steep jugging.

Start: Start as for D.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Thomson & Kim Carrigan, 1978

Trad 30m
13 A Snortiblog in Paradise

Up the corner of S to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Start: Start at Ali's.

FA: Craig Roberts & Ryan Robertson, 1986

Trad 25m
12 Sisyphus

Start: Start at Ali\'s.

  1. 26m (9) Traverse 5m R then juggy corner and into cave on 'Orpheus' (which is described in the 'Bard Buttress' area).

  2. 18m (12) Bomb-bay chimney as for pitch 5 of 'Orpheus' then traverse R (probably better to go left instead and continue up 'Orpheus').

  3. 20m (9) 'Nasty' wall, then R, watch for loose blocks.

  4. 16m (9) R, then over big block.

FA: Two South Australians, 1965

Trad 80m, 4
12 Oedipus Complex

Follow S for 15m, then begin a long traverse. Pass 'Orpheus' and Eurydice's 2nd belay, and reverse THE traverse on Bard. Now downclimb the Bard.

Start: Start as for S.

FA: Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1968

Trad 66m

Showing all 11 routes.