Routes as trad in Henham Track Area

To commemorate Greg Child’s 36th birthday. First line at left end of cliff, left of huge overhangs. Take a #3½ SLCD. Right-facing corner to roof. Traverse right under it. Up thin crack, step right up corner.

1. 10m Good finger-crack left of Checkpoint Charlie to below roof.

2. 20m Traverse left to arête, then up it.

Very pleasant. Crux at second BR, then sustained 21 to top. Wall 4m right of Uneasy Alliance. Seam starts above two low BRs. Follow this to ledge. Diagonally right up wall (two more BRs)to finish steeply.

Makes an excellent climb. From the mantel onNATO (18), veer up right on headwall to its right arête. Up.

Easier version of Tank Tracks. Start from large, mossy boulder 3m up righ tof Tank Tracks. Up and left on rib (loose blocks) to join Tank Tracks just left of yellow rooflet. Up Tank Tracks.

Graded 13/14 on the FA, upped to 16 on the second ascent, any other bids? Right of main face and left of face with distinctive off-width is a grey buttress. Climb this (steep start) and veer up left.

Starts right of Red Sky. Climb shallow corner then through overlap. Continue up, finishing to the right.

Good one. Seam and face 1½m right of Red Sky. Step left at top to avoid headwall.

Good position. Left arête of The Flying Game. Starts in corner at thin seam on left side of arête. A few hurried moves bring you right on to arête, then up staying right of arête.

The ‘distinctive off-width’ between Red Sky (actually 16 rather than 13/14 incidentally) and Writers’ Block in fact requires no off-widthing. Take a #4SLCD and a #2 Big Bro (#5 SLCD size).

Great, but poorly protected down low. Up grey wall to seam in middle of face right of off-width. Over small roof and climb horizontal breaks on wall above.

Loose and dirty. Up attractive finger-crack 4m right of Writers’ Block. Hand crack directly above. Step right above overhang, up.

Climb finger-crack as for Waiting For Mars. Climb right break in overhang,then take line of least resistance on wall above.

Excellent, sustained. Starts on terrace up right of Writer’s Block. Left out of cave, then left seam. Step right at roof, then scurfy up wall above.

Enjoyable, with a hard start. Curving sickle left of Cold War. Step across trench at left end of block. BR. Now up left side of cave, then arête.

Good climbing but not easily protected.Step off block across trench a few metres right of the above climb and climb up left on wall into cave. Step right and climb groove.

Steep corner-crack up right of Cold War.

Beautiful, steep climbing. Up buttress at far right end of cliff. Step left under bulge, then up and right to break (#3½ Friend) below final bulge.

The first crack line in the face 1m right of a corner Up corner and crack then steep country to a sandy exit.

Around right of the Fanaticism face is a short corner loading to twin ramps. Up corner, then lower left leading ramp, step up into upper ramp then weakness to top.

Crack just left of prominent yellow arête on outcrop just right of Fanaticism.

Start at the first prominent corner fine. Up steep corner and through bulge near top (the first ascent was done in two pitches).

Crack, then overhang in middle of face 5-10m left of Glass Ceiling.

Start as for Beggars Can’t Be Choosers then step right onto nose and continue up to ledge below roof. Move left and finish up Beggars Can’t Be Choosers (a crack through a bulge).

Crack at right end of compact wall, finishing by a diabolical wave-like over-hang, then easy ground.

At the far end of the cliff is a major detached block. Just right and above this is a square buttress. Up front of buttress finishing at a difficult crack.

About a quarter of the way along the cliff from left is a blocky pinnacle in front of the face (landmark). Charlotte’s Web is more or less above this and follows a major black corner.

From Western Bloc this looks an excellent stepped hand-crack 3m right of Charlotte’s Web. Loose blocksa bound. There is a gully 10m right of Family Affair.

Right of family affair is an arete. Start just right of the arete up steep wall to protection and holds. Continue easily up crack

Right of Yesterday's Pig and about in the middle of the cliff is a large block leaning against a wall forming a small belay cave. Start from the belay cave taking the overhanging crack on the left wall. When the crack finishes move about 1m left to join a second crack. At the top of this crack step Right around the bulge then move up and step back left to finish up blank top face.

One of the better lines. Right-arching seam leading to crack (with distinctive clump of grass), then easy ground, between two gullies near right end of cliff.

The LH crack just left of Ham Jam.

At the far RHS of the cliff is a less than vertical wall with 2 cracks.Ham Jam takes the RH crack. Start just past a block and up to a flake that is almost detached. Continue up crack to top. Move right on last move.

Line right of middle of first buttress on north bank.

From ledge on right side of Shock Rockbuttress, go up beside boulder to little corner and overhang. Step right, up crack and corner.

Wanders. On left side of next buttress(with a big prow) four minutes’ walk up north side of valley. Up, step left, up, right to corner under overhang, up, left, right.

Major corner towards left end of what appears to be fourth outcrop up north side of creek. Gritty black rock. (Out-crop is distinguished by a yellow over-hanging section above a huge fallen block about 20m right of Redundancy Package.)

Beguiling overhanging crack leading to steep wall climbing with a sting in the tail. Recommended. Line 4m right of Redundancy Package.

A major but frustrating line. The offending block should go. Last outcrop on north side of creek, near head of valley, has two major cracks. This is the left one. Huge loose block at top ofcrux section was avoided by the leader climbing down a little, then finishing up left above tree. Seconded direct.

Excellent crack right of Bum Steer.

Up wall on left of arête 9m left of Young Ones Reign. Right to arête at vague horizontal. Up to ledge, then steep crack.

Main corner 3m left of Back Slider.

Zigzag line 43m left of right end of middle cliff.

Short corners 50m left of Geriatricks. Finish up right-facing corner below tree.

The left of two lines at left of middle cliff

Start left of Frying and Crying. Corner to roof, then left and up crack.

Subtle line with hard start 6m right of pillar near right end of right-hand cliff and immediately left of conifer (not used).

Crack up left side of The Bonatti Pillow’s pillar.

Front of pillar 3m right of Grimace and 1m right of Tin Men.

Steep but with amazingly commodious holds. Start up right arête of cave 2mleft of On The Road Again. Up.

Groove 2m left of Grimace.

‘The only way to overcome temptation is to yield to it.’ Oscar Wilde. Up bulging wall 2m right of Wimping Out and just left of cave.

Groove 1m right of Dirty Weekend.

Take the biggest pro (to 18cm!). Off-width behind pinnacle between Jodd and Solid As A Rock.

Tell ‘em you led Oz’s first! Start as for Jodd. Follow flake up and out left.

Short V-groove 2m left of Greasy Daze. Left from top of this, then up.

Crack just left of descent gully left of Solid As A Rock.

Line 2m right of Frying And Crying.

Middle of face then small left-facing corner about 170m left of Grrr (on left-hand cliff). This climb is at left end of wall capped by roof.

Seams 50m right of Unorthodox.

Cairned. Crack 5m left of yellow corner in middle of middle cliff.

Indeed. Poor pro but good climbing. Seamed arête 2m right of Grrr.

The line of the cliff. Hard start, then easing. Corner 2m right of You Can’t Always Get What You Want.

The short will know it on this and next climb. Cairned. RP crack, hand-crack, seam 2m right of Fanx.

Cairned. Seam, short corner 2m right of The Land Of Nod.

Balancy face climbing. Cairned. Use tree to get on to face above overhang towards upper left end of cliff, step right in break below final, short wall and finish up finger-crack.

Splitter hand-crack. Cairned. Steep start into major corner 15m right of It Started With A Kiss. Step up left to foot of steep crack in left wall. Up this to roof, right to crack through bulge. Up.

Short but good. Cairned. Prominent, black, right facing corner 40m up right of Humping In Cornwall. Tricky exit.

Cairned. Slender buttress split by crack/seam below and just right of It Ended With A Bang. (Rope thrown over nearby branch to protect start.)

Cairned crack in wall 50m horizontally left of 3m pinnacle (landmark) on walking track to Castle Rock. That is, on upper right side of Bechervaise Rocks, 50m up right of Pulling Faces. Crack to horizontal break. Step right and climb wall.

From saddle east of cliff (mentioned indescription of alternative approach), scramble down left towards main cliff. An outcrop is passed in 100m. This climb is corner-crack towards right side of this outcrop. Cairned. Follow line,then finish directly up wall.

Thin crack up left arête of main cliff (down right of Dancing At Lughnasa).

1. 15m(crux) Crack, then step right to ledge.

2. 15m Main, orange corner

Right one of two beautiful, orange corners just right of The Hot Sun. Cornerto ledge on left. Steep little wall above corner, then up right to short crack. Roped scramble above.

Excellent, black finger-crack in corner above block 10m right of Vesuvius. Abseil from tree on ledge.

Corner 4m right of Signs And Wonders. Harder than it looks. Abseil from tree on ledge.

Major corner system 6m right of Shaken, Not Stirred. Up and left into line. Up it over perched block to scrubby ledge. Easily up and a little right.

Steep and exciting climbing. Near right side of highest and steepest but-tress are two pinnacles against face. From top of right one, climb wall to line which leads to overhang immediately left of landmark guano stain. Traverse left to bottomless line. Pull up into this, then step right above overhang into crack (some loose rock). Finish up this line.

Similar to A Whole Generation Lost in Space. Cairned. Line right of A Whole Generation Lost In Space. Up easily to roof. Step left to cave. Steep cracks. Exit right at final roof.

A health hazard for elderly gentlemen; take care with pro and rock. Groove 2m right of A Crash Course For The Ravers. Up to ledge on right side of scoop. Steeply back left, groove above.

Just round right arête of main wall (5m right of Spice Girls) is smooth, slightly overhanging wall with crack thinner than fingers. Use both trees to get going, then climb (wider) crack above.