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Routes as trad in Berowra

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Showing all 18 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Pimple Buttress
20 Pimple

Hard start (bolted) then a fairly easy trad finish. No lower off.

Mixed trad 10m, 1
Ladder of Gloom Area
21 Savage Cabbage

Good crack climb, lots of nuts for reassurance.

FA: Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980

Trad 8m
4 Cenotaph Corner

Climb the obvious corner. Beware of the brown snake that likes the top out jug on the left hand side.

Seriously, beware in summer

Start: often used as the descent route.

Trad 8m
14 The Mantle Machine

Start just right of the 'Barrelling section' of rock. Move up leftwards mantling the overhangs to finish just right of the Ladder.

Start: 4m right of 'Ladder of Death'

FA: Hayden Brotchie, 1996

Mixed trad 12m, 2
15 Crusty the crack

Up crack system, fiddly gear in poor rock, so don't fall

Trad 12m
Cave of Soap
23 Soap

The steep overhanging crack on the left side of the cave.

Start: left hand line in the big cave 30m right of 'The Mantle Machine'.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980

Trad 15m
Blackboard Wall
17 Gash

Climb up into pod shaped chimney, then struggle out to continue up crack. Not well travelled, fiddly gear placments.

Start: 3m right of 'Alison'

Trad 12m
12 Marsala

Reputedly tough for the grade. Either layback, jam or face climb - whatever floats your boat.

Has been mistaken for the descent gully!!!

Start: Corner crack at the 'Blackboard' righthand end.

Trad 8m
Kid Free Area
14 Too Cold For Shandy

Up LH ramp or take direct start. Pass rock hollow and up to chicken head. Mantel platform above. Take a few slings and get creative. DUB Lower off.

FA: Brendon Flanagan & Kerrylee Kirk, 27 Jun 2020

Trad 12m
Glamorpus Area
15 R Julian's Finest Hour

Up the black wall using very marginal gear placements.

Start: 8m left of 'Grumpy Old Men' (sounds like the FA of Prowl and Prejudice)

FA: Julian Anderson, 1990

Trad 6m
17 Black hand crack

Up steep hand crack right of UtD to finish on those anchors.

Trad 10m
9 Lentil Lollipops

Marked LL. A slightly steep start followed by a thin chimney to a solid corner. Take care with pro. Tree belay at top.

FA: Geoffry Heath & James Holbrook, 1980

Trad 15m
Positive Ape Factor Area
14 Heidi Bloom

Cool trad line follows crack 2m Left on MT. Easy Climbing to face then bomber #2 protects the crux then use fixed gear to lower off and clean. Add a grade if you’re shorter. Might be historical but it’s anyone’s guess

FFA: Marcus Kumar & robin kumar, 3 Jan

Trad 10m
19 Who Cares

Steep start then up seam just right of arete. At the cave, head right (BR). Take care with pro.

Start: Left arete of nice orange wall.

Trad 12m
22 Positive Ape Factor

Easy up the cracks then a huge reach to horizontal break. Take care up the final corner - it's quite hard and runout.

Start: Below obvious orange corner.

Trad 12m
21 Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish)

Wander up PAF to the right leading flake. Out via flake past the remnants of a bolt (well protected by any number of nuts/cams 80cm left or a bomber 0.2 cam underneath). Take care with the furthest part of the flake as it is cracked and flexing.

Trad 10m
14 Kenneth's Climb

Plenty of good protection - med/large cams and nut placements in the top half.

Start: 2m right of DG, the crack.

There is often a python (Kenneth) hanging around.

Trad 10m
4 Manufactured by Schweppes (solo)

The more commonly used access ramp / new carpark. 3m R of 'Wall Thing'. Always soloed. Be careful in the wet

FA: Unknown

Trad 10m

Showing all 18 routes.

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