Showing all 18 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Pimple Buttress | |||||
20 | ★ Pimple
Hard start (bolted) then a fairly easy trad finish. No lower off. | 10m, 1 | |||
Ladder of Gloom Area | |||||
21 | ★ Savage Cabbage
Good crack climb, lots of nuts for reassurance. FA: Scott Butler & James Holbrook, 1980 | 8m | |||
4 | Cenotaph Corner
Climb the obvious corner. Beware of the brown snake that likes the top out jug on the left hand side. Seriously, beware in summer Start: often used as the descent route. | 8m | |||
14 | The Mantle Machine
Start just right of the 'Barrelling section' of rock. Move up leftwards mantling the overhangs to finish just right of the Ladder. Start: 4m right of 'Ladder of Death' FA: Hayden Brotchie, 1996 | 12m, 2 | |||
15 | Crusty the crack
Up crack system, fiddly gear in poor rock, so don't fall | 12m | |||
Cave of Soap | |||||
23 | ★★ Soap
The steep overhanging crack on the left side of the cave. Start: left hand line in the big cave 30m right of 'The Mantle Machine'. FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980 | 15m | |||
Blackboard Wall | |||||
17 | ★ Gash
Climb up into pod shaped chimney, then struggle out to continue up crack. Not well travelled, fiddly gear placments. Start: 3m right of 'Alison' | 12m | |||
12 | ★ Marsala
Reputedly tough for the grade. Either layback, jam or face climb - whatever floats your boat. Has been mistaken for the descent gully!!! Start: Corner crack at the 'Blackboard' righthand end. | 8m | |||
Kid Free Area | |||||
14 | Too Cold For Shandy
Up LH ramp or take direct start. Pass rock hollow and up to chicken head. Mantel platform above. Take a few slings and get creative. DUB Lower off. FA: Brendon Flanagan & Kerrylee Kirk, 27 Jun 2020 | 12m | |||
Glamorpus Area | |||||
15 R | ★ Julian's Finest Hour
Up the black wall using very marginal gear placements. Start: 8m left of 'Grumpy Old Men' (sounds like the FA of Prowl and Prejudice) FA: Julian Anderson, 1990 | 6m | |||
17 | Black hand crack
Up steep hand crack right of UtD to finish on those anchors. | 10m | |||
9 | Lentil Lollipops
Marked LL. A slightly steep start followed by a thin chimney to a solid corner. Take care with pro. Tree belay at top. FA: Geoffry Heath & James Holbrook, 1980 | 15m | |||
Positive Ape Factor Area | |||||
14 | ★ Heidi Bloom
Cool trad line follows crack 2m Left on MT. Easy Climbing to face then bomber #2 protects the crux then use fixed gear to lower off and clean. Add a grade if you’re shorter. Might be historical but it’s anyone’s guess FFA: Marcus Kumar & robin kumar, 3 Jan | 10m | |||
19 | Who Cares
Steep start then up seam just right of arete. At the cave, head right (BR). Take care with pro. Start: Left arete of nice orange wall. | 12m | |||
22 | ★★ Positive Ape Factor
Easy up the cracks then a huge reach to horizontal break. Take care up the final corner - it's quite hard and runout. Start: Below obvious orange corner. | 12m | |||
21 | ★ Positive Ape Factor (Variant Finish)
Wander up PAF to the right leading flake. Out via flake past the remnants of a bolt (well protected by any number of nuts/cams 80cm left or a bomber 0.2 cam underneath). Take care with the furthest part of the flake as it is cracked and flexing. | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Kenneth's Climb
Plenty of good protection - med/large cams and nut placements in the top half. Start: 2m right of DG, the crack. There is often a python (Kenneth) hanging around. | 10m | |||
4 | Manufactured by Schweppes (solo)
The more commonly used access ramp / new carpark. 3m R of 'Wall Thing'. Always soloed. Be careful in the wet FA: Unknown | 10m |
Showing all 18 routes.