Routes as trad in Bald Head

The easiest and tradiiest route on the wall - was the last to be climbed! Rap in from The Opportunistic Pathogen or Rocket Girl anchors to shared belay with The Dimerisation Interface. Both ways involve swinging across. From here follow the incredibly obvious cliff splitting crack to the top. Real trad climbers will ignore all the bolts next to the crack in the first 15m. Enjoy the pump! Bring a double rack with x1 #5 or #6. Belay off the double bolts on the slabby bit of rock about 10m up the hill from the cliff edge.

Corner crack in position to die for. The rock is solid and the climb is well protected. Soft for the grade. Find two carrots at the top to rap down to a mini ledge. Start on the left of a boulder to climb up.

A much better mixed outing than its near neighbor, with a decent amount of well protected exposure. Rap either 50m from CTL anchor (down chain) or 60m from DUB higher near tree on ledge (The DUB are accessed by NOT going along the fixed ropes. Instead, 10m east (before) the fixed ropes, scramble 50m straight down the spur/ridge (take care, but it's not bad), then keep an eye out for a tree on a ledge to your left, which is where you will find the DUB). Make sure to not absiel all the way to the ground - the route starts off a vegetated ledge. Abseil too far and a 60m rope will not make it to the ground!

Bring 15 draws including a few long ones, a very small rack of wires, and single cams between 0.3 and 3. All bolts glue in SS, no bolt plates necessary. Starts beneath Ubolt 5m left of CTL.

1. 18m (14) Traverse above bolt into corner. Up to hand traverse beneath large block. Stay low for 4m easy runout before stepping up to large ledge. Step down at FH to ledge and single u-bolt belay.

2. 32m (21) Up veering left through steep horizontal breaks supplemented with bolts. Pass mantle then be sure to place #1 cam in pocket a few moves above next ubolt. Continue up through orange rock to good horizontal for #3 cam then steeply passing a few more bolts, up to spectacular spacious DUBB on prow of arete.

3. 15m (14) Walk directly right and into stemming corner (previously climbed?), up this then right onto face at chockstone/tree, up to ledge and single ubolt anchor backed up with med/large cam 3 metres behind.

A mixed route with bolted belays. All bolts are glue in FH's , ringbolts or Ubolts. No boltplates necessary.

Bring standard single rack including micro cams and DOUBLE #4 AND #5 CAMALOTS!!

First pitch is concealed by left arete of Redbelly Wall. Although the climb is 15m left of Redbelly , the small shute between them is loose. Approach by walking along small undercut ledge behind the detached block that forms the base of Redbelly. This brings you to base of wide corner and ringbolt. Stickclip the bolt as getting of the ground is tough.

1. 25m (18) Up awkwardly for a few meters then up passing three RBs to a DRB. A few #5 cams are handy both at the start and end of this route.

2. 15m (18) Ooze up, plug a #5 in and head out to arete passing a few bolts and a hidden hold. Tentatively place a few cams in break and carry on up arete jugs past a few more bolts to an arete slapping move. Belay on large comfortable ledge.

3. 20m (20) Re-establish belay at bolts 5m left under face. Up past small cam and wire then a few bolts. Pop a med cam in break then head right to a good handjam reach. Clip ubolt then froth on the crux of the whole route. Carry on over top and up to base of next obvious corner.

4. 20m (16) Plug in a big cam then up the corner. Stem left below first FH and continue through steep corner. Extend your last peice in crack and possibly place tiny cam on face on left before stepping left 2m on face to avoid dirty loose finish. 2xFH belay on edge above nice pedestal.

Stay roped up for loose edge and belay from cam, tree, or threads above on track.

Predominantly bolted route (no brackets required) but long pitches require a bit of gear too. Rap from big gumtree growing 15 meters before the dead casuarina on main ledge (Purkinje Arette belay). Rap directly down slope 15m to top anchor. Then 2 35 mtr rappels (f.a used 80mtr rope, unsure if 70 makes it). Of course you can walk to base via either of the established rap points at either end of crag, but this works well.

Gear 12 short draws, four alpine draws. Single rack up to #4, no wires, no micros. Double cams in #1, #2, #3

1. 35mtr 18 Up crack (f.a had gloves), past home made hanger/dynabolt and continue up corner, veering right when appropriate.

2. 35mtr 20 Pull on first bolt if you like (f.a didnt but much nicer!) then up. A single rack will suffice though maybe 2x #2 would be good.

Exit via u bolt on right toward casuarina so your not pulling rope up slope above. Not the worst route. A little wolganesque adventure.

Start: A blatantly obvious wide crack with 2 roofs on the first pitch. This is the first crack you will come to as you exit from dry creek bed approach. A small tree is directly in front of the start of the crack, and a rusty carabiner and old shoe mark the start of the climb.

1. 35m (18) Pleasant climbing up the wide crack, sling the occasional chockstone. Pull through roof on huge holds hand size crack to next roof, step left and up to comfy belay in sentry box.

2. 45m (18) Steeply out of sentry box on to wall, continue up wall via crack/flake to stance (steep for the grade). Short crack then corner to large sloping ledge, belay at large gum tree.

3. 40m (18) Rightward arching crack for a few metres to join leftward arching corner with large groove in the left wall. Up the corner then step left and continue up the groove to loose ledge. Traverse 5m left over big block to small stance directly under flake of pitch 4. Belay #3 and #3.5 friend in wall above ledge.

4. 35m (18) Pull on to wall using big ironstones. Vertical wall climbing using flake for gear for a few metres then the angle eases, ramble up to final headwall. If doing direct finish, belay from carrot bolts at base of wall, or if doing the original finish traverse right across wall to ledge and belay 10m before chimney.

5. 50m (16) Traverse into chimney/gully. Climb up until gully steepens then escape right along ledge to arete (belay). A few moves to top.

Vertical slab climbing over 150m of open air. Mostly protected by carrot bolts (take bolt plates) except for a few Cam placements to prevent run-outs. Rock is a bit brittle, currently graded 20, but will probably get harder as holds continue to break. With the last pitch of Weld Party 10 meters to right this may be more popular.....or less.

Start: On the ledge at the top of Pitch 4 of 'Serendipitous Cracks', go straight up the main wall following a line of carrot bolts, instead of traversing right and heading up the Chimney for pitch 5 of 'Serendipitous Cracks'.

Ground up attempt on crack system. Left facing corner 70m left of the start of Weld Party. P1. 30m. 20 Up the corner to semi hanging belay 3m below the roof. P2. 12m. 18M1 Up to roof, finger sized crack, traverse left, mostly aid till roof ends. Belay from gear under roof and single bolt slightly higher and left. Crack above is still unclimbed. Rap 40m to ground.

Starts several hundred metres right of 'Serendipitous Cracks', and about 100m left of the Hat Hill Creek waterfall. The climb is the small left facing corner crack in the middle of the steep yellow wall of sand, and is distinguished by two gnarled fig trees at the base of the corner.

1. 48m 18 Follow the horribly loose and chossy corner until you eventually reach a ledge liberally covered in large loose blocks and sand dunes. Calm down from the ascent then organise a retreat, using the dead, rotten tree, and a large slung flake that looks disturbingly loose.

Further pitches may be possible, but the territory looks steep and uncompromising, and the "rock" looks like it gets worse before getting better. Make sure you take double ropes if you intend to retreat (it's a full 50m rap).

Unprotected in places, take some big gear. Start at the crack system near the right end of the lower wall, 60m left of the detached pillar straight underneath chimney (way right of Serendipity Cracks).

1. 50m (14) Steep orange corner below fault.

2. 50m (17) Climb the wide corner to the roof to crack and on to slab to ledge.

3. 45m (19) Shallow, white chimney for a couple of moments, then right onto wall to ledge past carrot. Up bulges then crack through overhang and corner to ledge.

4. 25m (16) Corner and right to carrot on ledge. Scrabby crack on left and up to ledge.

5. 30m (16) Crack to belay on right.

100 meters west of Beche de Merle is a 90 meter pillar with a steep crack and chimney line on its left hand side. Start from high terrace, small cairn marks the start. Great climbing if you enjoy adventurous trad. Climb carefully - there is some soft rock, but protection is good where you need it. Pitches 5, 6 & 7 have bolts with fixed hangers.

Suggested rack: 1 set aliens or similar tiny cams, black diamond 2 x 0.3 to 1, 3 x 2 to 4, 1 x 5, 1 set of wires, 1 x red offset wire for pitch 5, lots of long slings.

P1, 15 meters, (20) Start at rightwards arching flake which is 1.5m right of a corner and 10m left of the fall line of the main crack system. Climb arching flake to ledge, walk right to belay. A #6 cam is handy to protect the first two meters, but you're not likely to place it anywhere else on the route.

P2, 30 meters, (20) Twin cracks to small overlap, step right, crack steepens, jamb and stem for 8m, crack widens, be careful of the big block, wide crack up to roof, move left to semi-hanging belay on cams (4, 5 & 0.5) in horizontal breaks.

P3, 30 meters, (17) Enjoyable wall and chimney, protected by spaced cams in horizontal breaks. Comfortable belay stance, large cams at shoulder height also a fixed 5m thread (rap anchor) at foot level.

P4, 40 meters, (18) Chimney, good climbing, some soft rock, protection via cams in horizontal breaks. When you reach the shale, move into the chimney, over large boulders and up to very top of the pillar on shale. Belay off 2 rings above you on the headwall.

P5, 30 meters, (21) Place gear and then commit to a big step into the thin corner for 8 metres, bomber small gear and crucial red offset. At the roof, step left to a bolt, then commit to a move on the arete and get prepared for a bowl quivering exposed traverse left for 5 more bolts to belay on edge of grey wall. 2 rings for belay.

P6, 30 meters, (21) Diagonally right across grey wall to shallow left facing corner, small cams, further right to bolt then up and right again to hanging arête, up past 4 bolts to ledge. Belay on 2 fixed hangers.

P7, 25 meters, (21) Straight up the orange and grey vertical wall protected by cams in horizontals and wires in unique slots and 3 bolts. Pumpy but lots of rests. Easy top out then walk up the slope 10m to 2 rings at your feet.

Can be accessed by abseil from the top of the wall. Belay on 2 rings. Vertical wall with amazingly solid small hold and lots of big holds. Straight up wall, fixed hangers plus horizontal break at 3/4 height for bomber 0.75 and 1 cam. Walk up loose slope 10m to 2 rings for belay.