Showing all 60 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
14 | Gollum
Start: Ledge 25m right of sandy cave.
FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1975 | 55m, 3 | |||
17 | Smeagol
Start: Right hand crack 20m right of Gollum.
FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974 | 55m, 2 | |||
11 | Yagi Link
Start: 20m Right of Smeagol.
FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ What's in a Name?
Start: 25m Right of YL.
FA: Hugh Ward & Howard Bevin, 1974 | 50m, 2 | |||
12 | Scottish Legacy
Start: 15m Right of WIAN?
FA: Pete Taylor & Brian Ratter, 1974 | 50m, 2 | |||
13 | ★★ Anthrax Ripple
Start: 13m Right of SL.
FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1975 | 50m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★ Anthrax Ripple RHV
| 25m | |||
12 | ★ Homesick
Start: 20m right of AR.
| 50m, 2 | |||
5 | ★ Garbage Guts Gully
Start: 10m Right of AR. FA: Pete Taylor & Wendy Hasling, 1974 | 60m | |||
20 | ★ Wild One
Start 40m right of GGG.
FA: Kim Carrigan, Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974 | 70m, 3 | |||
17 | Death March
Start 5m right of WO on ledge.
FA: Rick White & Colin Monteath, 1971 | 60m, 4 | |||
15 | Sarsparilla Slab Variant Start
Start 6m right of SS.
FA: John Ewbank, Robert Smith & John Smith, 1964 | 30m | |||
8 | Scunge Gully
Start 30m right of SS scramble.
FA: George Owens, Ross Johnson & Alan Eagle, 1968 | 36m, 2 | |||
7 | Omega et Alpha
Start 12m right of SC at base of slab.
FA: Ross Johnson & Alan Eagle, 1968 | 48m, 3 | |||
8 | ★ The Pulpit
6m right of OA.
FA: Ian Gaskin, George Owens & Lucy Harrison, 1963 | 39m, 3 | |||
14 | ★★ Go! Cat
Start 25m TP.
FA: George Harrison & Ralph Harvey, 1970 | 55m, 3 | |||
13 | ★ Square
Start 5m right of GC.
FA: Keith Royce & Fergus Bell, 1971 | 40m, 3 | |||
9 | Diarrhoea Chimney
Start 60m right of S.
FA: Ian Gaskin & Lucy Harrison, 1963 | 72m, 3 | |||
19 | Not Recommended for Children
Start 25m right MM.
FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1974 | 76m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ Time Lord
125m right of NRFC at the big chimney.
FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974 | 70m, 3 | |||
16 | ★★ No Complications
FA: Ian Lewis & Pete Moris, 1974 | 57m, 2 | |||
14 | ★ Ichthyosis
Start 6m right of NC.
FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1975 | 82m | |||
19 | Unfinished Crack Start Variation No. 1
Start 20m right of I.
FA: Dave White & Mike Law, 1973 | 43m, 2 | |||
15 | Unfinished Crack Start Variation No. 2
Start 18m right of UCSVN1. 18m Corner to roof, left to corner, around roof and up to ledge. FA: Mike Law & Dave White, 1973 | 18m | |||
13 | Unfinished Crack
Start 3m right of UCVN2.
FA: Allan Gordon & George Owens, 1965 | 70m, 4 | |||
14 | Mango
Start 25m right of UC.
FA: Andrew Stewart & Peter Loder, 1972 | 60m, 3 | |||
20 | ★ The Last Samurai
A jaw dropping line. Walk from Newnes campsite on maintrail left of river for approx 150 meters then turn left uphill on obvious trail between two stone cairns. Wind your way up into a saddle and up and left you will see a large white patch of cliff. Break trail and mosey up spur to elevated platform just right of white rock and base of route (shiny bolts). Starts just right of large white patch of rock, below prominent crack line. Bring doubles in the small size cams and a number 6 camalot (trust me , you will know when to place it). You can link pitch 1&2 but its a long one. If linking pitch 1 + 2 bring alot of everything. P1.(20) Up to base of crack passing 7 stainless BR's then delicately up crack to small stance above good large wire at 25 meters. Belay is med/large cams. P2. (20) Continue up crack 25m to semi hanging DRB. F.A built rebelay at next ledge though easier to just belay from semi hanging DRB. P3. (18) Strenous moves to get onto wall employing small trees , up crack for a few meters then veering right on ironstone passing 6 BR's up to DRB on ledge. 65m rap from here to ground. If accessing Upper Baldy ignore the belay at the top of pitch 3 (DRB). Instead, step left 2mtrs to BR , mantle and belay just above at new DUB rap station. (From here it is exactly 70 meters to ground). FFA: Eww & Marty Doolan, 6 Jun 2015 | 70m, 3, 7 | |||
16 | Viper
Start Approx 100m right of M.
FA: Matt Dunstan & Roark Muhlen, 1974 | 54m, 2 | |||
9 | The Chain
Start 60m right of V.
FA: Douglass Moss & George Owens, 1964 | 48m, 4 | |||
16 | ★★ Secret Swinger
Start 20m right of TC.
This is a good route to access the 'Upper Cliff' FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974 | 74m, 3 | |||
17 | Shrike
Start 2m right of SS.
FA: Steve Moon & Nat Nicolas, 1983 | 35m, 2, 3 | |||
14 | ★★ Polymorphic
Start 120m right of S.
FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974 | 60m, 2 | |||
19 | ★★ Ghoul
Start 10m right of P.
A good looking continuous line splitting the face, starting above a low pedestal. The good jambing runs out at about 40m at a small alcove which makes for a comfortable belay. Could be done as one pitch if you've managed rope drag. Length from rap/belay tree at top to ground is a little less than 60m. Good access to Upper Cliff. FA: Pete Taylor, Ian Lewis & Pete Morris, 1974 | 60m, 2 | |||
15 | Xentric
Start 80m right of G.
FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974 | 60m, 2 | |||
17 | Dance of the Flower Pot Men
Start as for X.
FA: Tom Williams, Adrian Teague & Steve Moon, 1974 | 50m, 2 | |||
16 | ★★ Room to Move
Start 4m right of X.
Nice long corner handcrack, take plenty of hand-size gear. Unfortunately the first move is very cruxy, and as always in the Wolgan there is some dodgy rock. FA: Ian Lewis & Pete Morris, 1974 | 65m, 2 | |||
12 | Vial
Start 20m right of RTM.
FA: John Miller & George Owens, 1971 | 60m, 3 | |||
14 | Gorgonzola
Start 50m right of V.
FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974 | 60m, 2 | |||
16 | Crapulence
Start 20m right of G.
FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1974 | 58m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★ The Slider
Start 10m right of W.
FA: Ian Lewis & Pete Morris, 1974 | 60m, 2 | |||
17 | The Baldest
Start 10m right of TS.
FA: Mike Law & A.N.Other, 1976 | 55m, 2 | |||
20 | Chough
Start 65m right of TB. Up right to bolt then to crack. Up to next bolt then break. Bolt anchor. FA: Steve Moon & Nat Nicholas, 1983 | 20m, 2 | |||
14 | ★★★ Mordor
Start 15m right of C.
FA: Rod Young & Phillip Armstrong, 1976 | 70m, 2 | |||
17 | ★★ Aquiline
Start 20m right of M.
FA: Mike Law & Ian Lewis, 1974 | 63m, 2 | |||
19 | Ying Yang
Start 20m right of A.
FA: Steve Moon & Adrian Teague, 1982 | 20m | |||
12 | The Trickster
Start 6m right of YY.
FA: Philip Julian & George Owens | 69m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Zoro's Toaster
Enjoyable face climbing. Almost a sports route with 6 bolt runners. Starts 2m left of Zarathustra (marked). Traverse 5m right to big tree for rap off. | 28m | |||
15 | ★★ Zarathustra
Start 15m right of TT.
FA: Pete Taylor & Pete Morris, 1974 | 70m, 2 | |||
18 | ★★★ Inversion
Start 25m right of Z.
The first pitch is 40m to a tree-belay. You can traverse 5m left past a short jam crack (just below the aforementioned tree) to the anchors for Liquid Sky at the end of P1, and rap to the ground (a single 60m rope JUST reaches on stretch). FA: Mike Law & Ian Lewis, 1974 | 60m, 2 | |||
17 | Harry Bursts Open
Start as for I.
FA: Tom Williams & Steve Moon, 1982 | 55m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Mopoke
Start 25m right of I. 40m Up crack passing pegs then right at ledge and bolt. Trend right then head to another bolt. Up to top passing bolt. FA: Steve Moon & Nat Nicholas, 1983 | 40m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Steppenwolf
Start 8m right of M.
FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1974 FA: Matt Dunstan & Rick McGregor, 1977 | 62m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Woden
Start as for S.
55m abseil from tree at the top of the cliff to the ground. 2 ropes essential. FA: Mike Law & Kim Carrigan, 1974 | 55m, 2 | |||
17 | Fire-Power
Start 30m right of W.
FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974 | 55m, 2 | |||
16 | ★ Arms Race
Start 20m right of FP.
FA: Pete Taylor & Mike Law, 1974 | 73m, 3 | |||
15 | Falcon's Frolics
Start 20m right of AR.
FA: Paul Edwards, Pete Taylor, Pete Jenkins & Owen Manley, 1976 | 81m, 4 | |||
22 | ★ The Weirding Wall
Start 30m right of FF.
FA: Mike Law & Pete Taylor, 1974 FFA: Henry Barber & Ray Lassman, 1975 | 54m, 2, 1 | |||
25 | ★★★ Top of the Pops
Start 30m right of TWW.
FFA: Steve Bullen, 1984 FA: Giles Bradbury (with a rest), Steve Moon & Greg More, 1984 | 65m, 2, 4 | |||
24 | ★★★ Smash Hits
Classic almost-a-sport route with some wonderful sustained climbing and heartbreak crux right near the top. Stick-clip high RB then up sweet scoop past another RB to horizontal break (vital #3/#4 camalot - make it bomber, if it fails you hit the deck). Finish up wall above past three move RBs and a long runout to shared rap anchor with Top of the Pops. The bolts are weirdly placed so use long runners to avoid ropedrag. Route was rebolted in 2013. FA: Giles Bradbury (23 M0), 1984 FFA: Paul Thomson & Neil Monteith, 29 Aug 2014 | 30m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Lysander
Start 20m right of TOTP.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Mike Law, 1974 | 56m, 3 |
Showing all 60 routes.