Routes as sport in North Face

Probably the hardest route on Mt Keira. Start 3 meters left of 'Great Balls Of Boogey Woogy'. Up the wall to horizontals then crank crank crank to the top.

3 ring bolts and an optional rusty dogger bolt plate at the crux to a new double ring anchor.

[Apr-2012 new lower off] Strenuous face climbing for last 2 bolts! Start 2 meters left of Pakistan. Climb past the horizontals then follow the rings to the top. Plus has original top belay bolts.

Start on the rock platform, up jutting features to the 1st ledge. Bridge corners to get to 2nd ledge. Now it gets harder - grasp for pockets and thin footholds to reach the diagonal ridge. Slap direct to the anchors with a huge lunge off the ridge gaston, or pike right and use the arete if you are not tall enough.

[May 2012 - Loweroffs and 2 ring bolts]

The Opposing face of Nordwand.

Step up on horizontals using crack for purchase. Reach to the ledge and walk left along the diagonal then pull up. Spread arms wide for flacks, watch foot placement, some of the small flakes are weak.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route.

On the short wall starting from the halfway ledge (3m left of Debut Deview). Up wall past rusty bolt going left at top. Pro. = 2 rusty bolts

[May 2012 - Lower offs] Layback off crack , step up and then reach left and clip 1st bolt.

[May 2012 - new Loweroffs and bolts]

From the path - up the arete , pull up to the 1st platform then up the razor arete to the second platform. Hunt for the holds and smear up to the top.

From the top you can also exit via Sand Pit Wall Exit route, thus making it a multi pitch route

Thin face climbing. Balancy and technical. Start about 7 meters around from Fascination, at easy short arete under roof at the base of the cliff, OR solo up the corner to belay at wall. Up wall and flake. 4 rings to double rings at top.

Original grade was 24 but we think it could be a couple grades higher. Old guide description is to traverse in from the right at the upper sand pit ledge, but it is more conventional and accessible to just start at the ground as per Fizzgig. At the traverse clip the first bolt of Cheap Wine, then head diagonally upwards to finish as per Cheap Wine anchor.

The traverse is spacey. Start as for Fizzgig. Up easy ground to steep wall (ringbolt). Traverse out left across wall just above the undercut roof (ringbolt). Up wall at left side of arete (ringbolt) to double bolt belay.

Up the first 3 bolts on wallyard grave, then go right across crack into lip of roof and trend up and right to double ring anchor. (An easier variation can be done by going up the crack another meter before branching right, but beware there is a funnel web in the good pocket

The wall left of Grot Heap Groove. Up the middle of the wall finishing up the thin crack in the wall and top wall. This route has been retro-bolted with 4 additional rings and is now a sport route.

[May 2012 - loweroffs and start ringbolt added]

An excellent direct route with great views The arete left of Wallyard Grave. Follow the arete and right wall past fixed brackets to reach top arete. Climb arete until forced back right onto wall (crux) and up wall past last bracket to lower-offs. - 5 Expansion bolts & 1 RB.

From the top of WGA rappel over edge to the right (facing out) to small ledge. Climb back up wall past rusting bolts.

From the base of WGA walk around left and scramble up to next climbs at a crack with initials 'FOY'