Routes as sport in Pão de Açúcar

Crux move (1st pitch) can be done on artificial instead. First pitch ends sort of in the middle of the variant traverse that connects "Via dos Italianos" and "Cavalo Louco".

1. Pitch 1 50m.

2. Pitch 2 40m.

Take 9 quickdraws, plus slings and extra biners. You can also add a couple of small to medium size cams to reduce run out in the first pitch when you cross the end of a crack.

A variant that starts on the first bolt of "Via dos Italianos" going to the right. Only 4 bolts but quite pumpy. Nice!

Another variant to the "Via dos Italianos", but starting a bit more to the right, between "Cisco Kid" and "Artéria da Alucinação". Technical. 4 bolts.

The CEPI route has been bolted as a sport route.

You need to downclimb or abseil from the base of "Pássaros de Fogo" to get to the start.

Another variant connecting "Via dos Italianos" to "Cavalo Louco". This time it goes from the anchors at the end of the second pitch of "Via dos Italianos" and moves to the left to reach the middle of the 4th pitch of "Cavalo Louco".

A variant to "Secundo Costa Neto", a route from the north face that ends on the west face and that is usually used as a continuation of "Via dos Italianos".

When connecting "Via dos Italianos" with "Secundo Costa Neto", you need to take the "Variante Darcy Ribeiro" at the end of "Via dos Italianos" (from 2nd anchors) to reach a big ledge with a rock and a crack (end of Cavalo Louco's 4th pitch). You will then move diagonally to the left until you reach the 5th pitch anchors of "Secundo Costa Neto". For "Variante Troglodita", before you reach the anchors, you follow a line of bolts going straight up for another 20m until you reach a ledge where you can stop (single bolt). The next pitch goes up and slightly to the right, until you reach a big roof. Stop there and then go back to "Secundo Costa Neto" around to the left, until you get to the top of the roof, onto a ledge. To reach the summit, go to the right to the start of an arete and follow it up, then right around the roof, left and up.

Starting a few meters to the right of "Escadinha de Jacó".

1. Pitch 1: 35m; Up and to the right to reach double rings.

2. Pitch 2: 50m; Straight up to double rings.

3. Pitch 3: 25m; to the right to reach a ledge with double rings.

Take 11 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners.

Bolts are well-placed and not run-out.

A 4 pitch technical face and slab climb up the south face of Pao de Acucar. Starts on the east side of south face; 4th line from the right - the line next (left) to "As de Espadas". Starting quite easy, becomes harder and better as you move up. The crux comes at the end of the last pitch.

1. Pitch 1: 40m Going up and then traversing left at the last bolt before double rings;

2. Pitch 2: 50m Up 11 bolts then traverses left to double rings.

3. Pitch 3: 25m Straight up - the hardest pitch with the crux towards the very end.

12 quickdraws plus slings and extra carabiners. Spaced bolts but not runout.

Up the ramp that goes to "Chaminé Stop". Belay from the bolt on ledge, after passing 3 bolts and 25m. 10 bolts to DBB.

Goes left after first pitch of "As Lacas Também Amam".

Revolta is a stunning and very steep, sustained flaring thin crack. The route is on the west face of the Totem. The views are spectacular with engaging and technical climbing. The crux is right at the end, and is unprotectable for 2-3 meters until the chains.

Starts from end of "As Lacas Também Amam" making for an 8-10 pitch route but there are other options. Walk left through vegetation and slightly up to ledge where you'll find double bolts for the belay. Pretty much straight up from there.

Take nuts, double cams from #0.3 (blue) to #2 (yellow) camalot, draws and slings.

Starts from end of "Revolta dos Gravatás". Abseil 20m to ledge on the left. Quite exposed.

Starts from base, just before ramp that goes to Chaminé Stop. Diagonally left.

Starts from 2nd bolt on slab that takes you to "Chaminé Stop" and joins "Cacoete" after 11 bolts

Most people only climb the first pitch (20m) as 2nd pitch is a grade III in the Brazilian system with quite an exposed traverse that takes you to "Lagartão". Starts a few meters to the left of "Cacoete".

Connects "Limiar da Loucura" and "Lagartão". Very exposed traverse.

Parallel to "As Lacas Também Amam".

Starts before the first belay station for "As Lacas Também Amam".

Aid climbing through roof towards the end of "Chaminé Stop".

This route an absolutely spectacular route with splitter cracks and technical face moves. On the north face of the Totem, which is on the south face of the Pao de Acucar.

It's actually a combination of several routes on the Totem formation that were established over the course of several years. Combination of "Sika em Frente" to "Limiar das Lacas" to "As Lacas Também Amam" to "Revolta dos Gravatas" to "Lagartao".

Need to abseil from the end of "Revolta dos Gravatás" to "A Um Passo do Espaço" (20m).

Take about 12 draws, including runners, and a single rack from a .3 to a #2 Camalot.