Routes as sport in Calico Basin

Not on the main wall, but on a pinnacle which is below the east end of the approach ledge.

Unknown sport route left of Shallow Fried Crackin. Good face climb. Anchor bolts.

Face climb to the right of Shallow fried Crackin. Good face climb. Anchor bolts.-

Left bolt line - climbs the arete just to the right of the big chimney.

Bolt route just to the right of Cocopuss.

The obvious arrete at the front of the crag.

Featured in Climbing magazine's "America's Best 100 sport climbs" (Oct 2015). The rock is a little hollow in places, but well bolted. All pitches have a 5.9 crux which makes this route a sensational journey up a beautiful wall.

The bolted route between Red Riding Hood and Physical Grafitti, starting off raised platform left of Physical Graffiti.

P1) 70ft, 5.9, steep juggy wall. 8 bolts.

P2) 80ft, 5.8, slabby friction climbing. 8 bolts.

P3) 70ft, 5.8, a little friction, then steep juggy finish to anchor. 8 bolts.

Descent:

Option 1) climb a 4th pitch of low 5th class past 2 bolts to another anchor, maybe 30 foot, then walk off climber's left and down the descent gully.

Option 2) Rappel from the top of pitch 3, 2 x 60m ropes reach the ground with about 1 foot spare, make sure your 60m ropes are 60m!

Option 3) Rappel the route with 3 single rope rappels.

The last 20-25ft or so has no protection until the bolted anchors, but this is deliberate as it goes at 5.0 after the 4th bolt.

On the giant "Golden Nugget" boulder 50 yards west (?) of Sunny & Steep, on the south facing side of the boulder.