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Routes as sport in The Dihedrals

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Showing all 36 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.7 Lichen It Sport
5.6 Easy Reader

FA: Alan Watts & JoAnn Miller-Watts, 1989

Sport 18m, 5
5.8 Ginger Snap

FA: Alan Watts & JoAnn Miller-Watts, 1989

Sport 18m, 4
5.8 Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut

FA: Matt Canham, Don Gonthier & Rodney Spencer, 1999

Sport 20m, 7
5.12b Crossfire Sport 35m
5.12c Karate Wall

A brilliant, long pitch of Smith Rock crimping. Bolted line just left of Karate Crack. Follow bolts and a few healthy runouts to the top of the wall.

Sport 35m
5.12b Latest Rage Sport
5.12b Watts Tots

A great route with delicate climbing and fun moves. Start on the shelf on the left side of the Latest Rage buttress and climb an aesthetic face that gets a little harder the higher you go. The middle is tough, but the ending is no walk.

FA: Alan Watts

Sport 23m, 5
5.10d Trivial Pursuit Sport
5.10a Tator Tots Sport
5.12a Latin Lover

Another technical and balancy Dihedrals climb. A tricky thin traversing crux comes near the top by the last bolt, but the rest of the route isn't that easy to figure out either.

FA: Jean Marc Troussier, 1986

Sport 20m, 7
5.12b Peepshow Sport
5.11d Almost Nothing Sport
5.12b Take a Powder Sport 25m
5.12c Powder in the Eyes Sport
5.13b French Connection Sport
5.14a To Bolt Or Not To Be

The first 5.14a in America.

FA: Jean Baptiste Tribout, 1986

Sport 41m, 14
5.12c Last Waltz Sport
5.12c Last Waltz Direct Sport
5.11c Moondance

Nice face climbing until you reach a small ledge, rest, then up the thin, technical corner.

Sport 30m
5.10b Wedding Day Sport 25m, 7
5.11c Middle-Aged Vandal

Several weird cruxy sections broken up by a couple of hands-free stances to ponder your life decisions. The hardest move guards the easy mantle out to the anchor, it ain't over till it's over.

FA: Alan Watts, 1986

Sport 18m
5.12b The Flat Earth

A devious mid-section crux and a brief mono encounter surrounded by a much easier opening and conclusion characterises this route. Get it while it's still standing. The flaky jugs for the first two bolts surely won't be there for long.

FA: Eric Horst, 1991

Sport 18m
5.12c Heinous Cling

The best route of its grade at Smith. With a dynamic crux coming near the top, a climber needs to be careful to avoid getting pumped on the technical crimps and pockets below. The route is perfect in pretty much every way. The falls are clean and the climbing exciting, and this route should be on every climber's tick-list.

Although the route extends to the top of the cliff, the upper section is rarely done. Both pitches together bump the grade to a very pumpy 5.12c with a couple of good runouts at the top. Most ascents of this route stop at the anchors halfway up (5.12a).

FA: Alan Watts, 1984

Sport 33m
5.12a Heinous Cling (1st Anchor)

If you're going all the way, check out the full Heinous Cling. For most of us, the fun will stop at the first anchor.

Begin up a seam and pockets with an optional gear placement (BD 0.4 or 0.5) in the horizontal crack. Continue up pockets and good holds. Manage your pump in preparation for more difficulties prior to reaching the final bolt.

FA: Alan Watts, 1984

Sport 30m, 5
5.13a Darkness at Noon Sport 35m, 10
5.12c Chain Reaction Sport
5.8 Rebirth

Same chimney as Rattlesnake, but in front of the lodged chalk stone. Opening move to get into the chimney is challenging. Due to erosion the chimney only starts around shoulder height, so it's a pretty committing move to get lodged in there before the first bolt. Would have felt better with a stick clip for this one.

Sport 4
5.9 Ancylostoma Sport 50m
5.7 Bunny Face

Knobby route, really nice warm up and pretty route

Sport 2
5.10a Methuselah's Column Sport
5.9 Helium Woman Sport
5.10a Captain Xenolith

Battle through the early nubbin and edges crux and then cruise to the finis

Sport 21m
5.12c Go Dog Go Sport
5.12b Vision Sport
5.5 Night Flight Sport 20m

Showing all 36 routes.

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