Showing all 53 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
8 | ★ Mission Over Tokyo Gunigalg Gully Connection
The easiest way to the top of Taipan if you want to pre-place gear or take photos from rap. It is also a great beginners' route with (mostly) excellent rock, big features and good pro. Start by squeezing up a chimney feature adjacent to the Peregrinator Boulder (3m L of the tricky starting crack of Mission Over Tokyo). Climb most of the first pitch of Mission Over Tokyo, eventually arriving at a DRBB. Step left across the void of the Gunigalg Gully chimney. Easily up the slabby left wall of this, into the boulder choked gully (DRBB). If you wish to reach the summit, scramble up the short right wall (poor protection). FA: Andy Pollitt?, 2000 | 50m | |||
18 | ★ Mission Over Tokyo
A couple of exciting moves but the rest is ordinary. Start about 10m down left of Atomic Tadpole at far left edge of wall and about 15m right of the major vile-looking chimney of Gunigalg Gully.
FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws (alt), 1988 | 55m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Atomic Tadpole
An attractive climb with an intimidating finish. Usually done in a single pitch. Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the boulder, at the base of the nice face crack in the middle of the grey slab.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 40m, 2 | |||
24 | ★★ Posy
A selection of the various flowers, plus some nice poses of its own. Start on top of the big boulder perched on the ledge between Atomic Tadpole and Tokyo Rose (but it's a better more sustained pitch if you start up UG). Trend R up the easy slab (adequate pro found on the R). Cross Tokyo Rose, then join Ukrainian Geranium for 8m over bulges to the start of the upper slab. Now traverse 3m R to FH in major grey streak, then up to break. Move R to join Sordid Orchids Direct past it's final 2 FHs, to rap anchor (28m). Full set of cams and wires, and several long draws (or double ropes). FA: Will Monks & Mike File, 2005 | 30m, 3 | |||
18 | ★★ Tokyo Connection
Takes in the good pitches of Tokyo Rose and Mission over Tokyo, and avoids the rubbish. Start as for Tokyo Rose.
| 45m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Tokyo Rose
Obvious line, but the second pitch is ordinary. Improved by finishing up the second pitch of Mission Over Tokyo (i.e. by doing Tokyo Connection instead). Start in the square orange corner at the right side of the grey slab, about 8m R of Atomic Tadpole, on the elevated ledge.
FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1987 | 50m, 2 | |||
20 | ★★ Ukrainian Geranium
This ground-up effort felt all the more intrepid for being established in single-digit temperatures with no fewer than three hailstorms on the way. It's the best moderate route down this end of the wall. Start 2m R of Tokyo Rose (Tokyo Connection), and 2m L of Sordid Orchids, on the elevated ledge.
FA: Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff (alt) & Joe Goding, 2004 | 45m, 2 | |||
26 | ★★ Sordid Orchids Direct
Extends the first pitch of Sordid Orchids by 12m and adds three bolts. Sustained wall climbing with crimpers and reach moves. Climbs more like a Blue Mountains wall climb rather than a Taipan steep sloper fest. Start as for Sordid Orchids. Climb Sordid Orchids to horizontal break after last RB. Instead of traversing off right into the birdshit, head straight up wall above (FH), step left and then up again (2 FHs). After the last bolt, traverse right into Sordid Orchids pitch 2 and climb this for 2m to a loweroff. Above the anchor is the aid move on Sordid Orchids pitch 2. FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2005 | 28m, 5 | |||
25 | ★★ Sordid Orchids Pitch 1
| 20m, 2 | |||
29 | ★ Black Adder
A beautiful natural line but unpopular due to its rusting bolts and bizarre traversing. Start at the first anchor of Sordid Orchids, on the guano-stained ledge. Drop down, traverse 4m right and go up flake to roof. Right below roof for 5m and over lip (crux). Traverse 5m right to finish beside Clean Sweep. Approx 5 bolts? FA: Pete Cresswell & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 40m | |||
26 | ★★ Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
The dyno identifies many dinosaurs. A superb climb up the intermittent flake system. Start 10m R of Sordid Orchids on the elevated ledge, which at this end is about 10m above ground level. Follow the thin flake past a sea of fixed rubbish to a pin. Hard moves lead straight through the dyno, then traverse R to the continuation of the flake. At the roof move R and up a shallow groove to the top. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 35m | |||
Dinosaurs LHF
In 2009 some new bolts appeared in the groove which goes up the steep bulge about 5m L of the finish of DDD. This is being approached via a cool girdle from Sordid/Blackadder (2 ropes, drop 1 halfway), but could also start up DDD. There were already some old carrots here... Carrigan's? | |||||
23 M1 | ★★★ Dance of Life Clean Sweep Connection
Some link-ups are hardly worth recording, but this one is notable because it avoids the cruxy moves of each route, leaving amazing sustained climbing around grade 22 with bomber pro the whole way. In fact, you'd be hard pressed to find a better 23 in the Grampians. Follow Dance of Life to the horizontal break 10m below the top, step L 3m, and finish up the lovely well protected blunt arete of Clean Sweep. Needs double ropes to do it in a single (ultraclassic) pitch. Has also been done by going further L along the break to Dinosaurs Don't Dyno. FA: 2004 FA: Will Monks, James Pfrunder & Kevin Lindorff, 2004 | 45m, 1 | |||
21 | ★★ The Mint
Fun traversing on superb aesthetic stone. Full set of cams. Has also been done by starting up the unpleasant flakes 10m L of Great Divide (see 16a on topo). You can do a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push). Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the far right hand end of the elevated ledge. Put your belayer on the wide ledge 6m below the start, so they can see the crux.
FA: Will Monks, Mark Rewi (alt) & Neil Monteith | 42m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ The Great Divide
Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws. Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Martin Scheel, 1984 | 50m, 2, 3 | |||
25 | ★★ Divided Years
Steep scoopy World Party start then thin technical finish. Well protected and convenient for climbers who end up on the ledge above the left end of Taipan. Start on top of Taipan Wall: this route is a rap in and climb out affair between The Great Divide and Daedalus. Locate double rap rings on ledge about 10m south of the Clean Sweep rap chains. Rap down wall aiming for double ring belay at right end of horizontal break. You will need to be pushing off and swinging in to reach this anchor - the wall is steep! Traverse left across horizontal (FH), then up into water funnel scoop (two FHs) to small cave. Out right side of this cave on crimpers past final FH to juggy gritty finish. #3 SLCD and a few medium wires are all that is required in the trad department. Its a 40m Rap to the ground from the Rap-Anchors on the Belay at the start of this route. FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005 | 16m, 4 | |||
26 | The Chick is Trouble
A nice mini-pitch, although the crux is several grades tougher than the rest. Start 15m R of Great Divide, below the flake which is a few metres L of Seventh Banana pitch 1. Easy grey rock leads to roof. Turn the lip with difficulty (FH), to gain the flake. Nice moves up flake and face, to the first belay of Seventh Banana. Rap off (20m). FA: Ross Taylor, 1999 | 15m, 1 | |||
28 R | ★★★ Daedelus
This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line. Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana. Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Between the last 2 RBs it rejoins Seventh Banana for a few metres, then heads left again. 6 RB's & DRB anchor. There's some optional cam placements but they don't reduce the runouts much. Rebolted 2017. FA: Julian Saunders (26M1) & Dave Jones (28), 1997 | 28m | |||
27 | ★★★ The Seventh Banana
A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins. Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.
FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson FA: FA Nick Reeves, Dave Mudie & Steve Due (alt), 1975 | 55m, 2, 6 | |||
23 | ★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1
| 20m | |||
21 | ★★ Sirocco Pitch 1
| 20m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★★ Sirocco
Another classic up this unlikely looking section of cliff. The crux at the start of the second pitch is ridiculously hard, and can be quite demoralising. Some prominent international climbers have suggested up to 8a for this move! It is also enjoyable, and far easier, to either (a) pull on that one bolt to reduce the grade to 25M1, or (b) freeclimb around to the R past the 1st bolt of Father O then back L into Sirocco before the 2nd bolt of Father O. Start about 20m R of The Seventh Banana, and 3m L of The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989 | 52m, 2, 5 | |||
26 | Father Sirocco (linkup)
Some consider this a route that isn't worth recording; others consider it to be better than either of the two original routes that it links! It is easier than either of the original (sandbagged) lines - maybe that accounts for its popularity. Start up Father O to its second bolt, then traverse delicately left to join Sirocco's second bolt. Finish up Sirocco. | 30m, 5 | |||
26 | ★★★ Father Oblivion
Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many Taipan 26s, but easier than Sirocco so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams. Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006. A great 25ish variant avoids the crux past the 2nd bolt by moving L below it, joining Sirocco for a few moves then rejoining Father O above the 2nd bolt. An independent start has also been done off the ledge, its protected by tiny trad and, instead of sharing the first few metres of Sirocco p2 off the L end of the ledge, it goes up and a bit left from the middle of the ledge to the 1st bolt of Father O. FA: Simon Mentz, 1991 | 52m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★ Pythonesque
A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt. FA: Will Monks, 2013 | 35m | |||
31 | Cardigan Street
HB had previously dabbled in this vicinity while searching for a second pitch for Mirage, but after he declared the second pitch groove "impossible" nobody bothered with it for years. Luckily no one told Stuart, who sauntered in and snared one of Taipan's very best. Unfortunately the first pitch is ridiculously cruxy, so most people rap in to do pitch 2 only. Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Pitch 2: Stuart Wyithe (late) & Pitch 1: Garth Miller (2nd shot!), 1995 | 60m, 3, 11 | |||
27 | ★★★ Mirage
Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (pitch 1), 1990 FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | 35m, 2, 15 | |||
HB's 'It Might Go' Line (project - closed)
This is what Malcolm's original thinking was for the 2nd pitch of Mirage. Apparently he thinks it might go so best stay off. Start atop the first pitch of Mirage. FA: Equipped Malcolm Matheson ~?, 1990 | 35m, 3 | ||||
25 R | ★★ Arabic Mint
A great section of traversing, the addition of which enables a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push). Start at the end of The Mint (the first anchor of Sirocco). Can also be worked from the ground by starting up the first 15m of Mirage. Reverse the Sirocco pitch 1 traverse, then take the Mirage traverse to the white corner. Swing R to obvious slot on arete, up a little then back down to a break which leads into Lawrence of Arabia. Cams to #5 & wires. Descent requires creativity if not continuing into LoA. Be aware that the slot on the arete captures your rope, which doesn't seem to create drag or rope cutting potential for the leader, but does create rope cutting potential if the second falls off the crux (as happened on the first ascent: the sheath was completely severed but thankfully the core survived). The leader should consider obstructing the slot and/or padding the problematic sharp edge, and/or the second should try to flick the rope out of the slot before leaving the corner. FA: Will Monks & Adam Demmert, 2008 | 25m | |||
25 R | ★★★ Medusa
The main attraction is a seductive groove on the second pitch reminiscent of Cardigan St, but with lesser quality rock and a sullied history. For those who "only" climb 25, the first pitch is very worthwhile in its own right and deserves a lot more traffic than it gets - especially since the old bolts were replaced (2009). Start as for The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Pitch 1: Gordon Poultney & Simon Carter early, 1995 | 35m, 2, 3 | |||
Medusa (Pitch 2) (open project)
| 25m | ||||
26 | Snake in the Grass
Goes left from 7th Pillar LHV to finish at the top of Mirage P1. FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | ||||
24 | Hydra
Climb 7th Pillar LHV almost to end of rightwards traverse and go up scoopy line past 2 bolts to bolted anchor. FA: Graeme Dick, 25 Jun 2016 | 30m, 3 | |||
23 R | ★★★ The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant
A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m). Start as for The Seventh Pillar. Follow R-tending line of weakness for 18m to the major roof-capped horizontal break. Swing L into the rounded flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by 8m rightwards runout to the horizontal (gear). Traverse 10m further right along this to rap rings (22m rap, can just barely lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous. FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece & Eddy Ozols, 1980 | 46m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★★ The Seventh Pillar LHV (Consumer Version)
Climb The Seventh Pillar LHV to the top of the flake, clip the bolts, gaze rightwards at the rising, unprotected traverse, and say 'take'. Lower off with mixed feelings of guilt and relief. | 25m | |||
21 | ★★ The Seventh Pillar Right Hand Variant
Fantastic sustained moves and position. Start at the original 2nd belay of Seventh Pillar (i.e. at the guano-stained stance halfway up the 2nd pitch as now described). Extend high pro, then step down from the belay to traverse 3m R to incipient flakes. Up past 2 FHs and straight up grey streak (med wire) to gain major break. Move L to belay as for the original. FA: Will Monks & Kevin Lindorff | 14m, 2 | |||
28 | Seventh Pillar Direct Finish
A superbly positioned bouldery little pitch. Makes a logical 3rd pitch for The Great Affair now that that has been freed. Start at the second belay of The Seventh Pillar. Blast up the surprisingly overhung headwall, trending a little R, past 2RBs and a medium cam. Lower off anchor. Rebolted 2018. FFA: Dave Jones (2000ish?) | 12m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★★ Lawrence of Arabia
2 long traversing pitches which give fantastic perspectives on the daunting territory above. Take lots of cams of all sizes. Start as for The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson (alt) & Richard Smith, 1991 | 55m, 2 | |||
26 | Slytherin
Start from the ground as for The Great Affair. Trend diagonally L past 2 new bolts to ledge. Continue L and up 7th pillar LHV flake, then finish as for Snake in the Grass to Mirage ledge. 3 cruxes separated by rests. FA: Graeme Dick, 16 Jul 2016 | 30m, 3 | |||
33 | ★★ The Great Affair
Demanding bouldery cruxes and intimidatingly huge dynos. According to Dave Jones, 'Malcolm only ever bolted this because he'd just done Mirage and thought he could dyno the full height of the cliff'. Start about 15m R of The Seventh Pillar, 2-3m R of Slytherin.
Set: Malcolm Matheson (and DS added by Nalle 2017), 1993 FFA: Dave Jones freed pitch 3 ~2000, Nalle Hukkatival p1 & p2 Oct 2017, Oct 2017 | 60m, 3, 8 | |||
★★★ Quetzalcoatl LHV (Closed project)
Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Use fixed rope on Feather Boa to access.
| 55m, 2, 9 | ||||
29 | Quetzalcoatl (project - open)
Start at a hanging belay in Lawrence of Arabia, about 15m R of the Seventh Pillar bolt ladder. Use fixed rope on Feather Boa to access.
FA: Equipped Dave Jones, 2000 | 54m, 2 | |||
29 | ★★★ Feather Boa
The magical long sustained main pitch uninterrupted by rests is something special, even by Taipan's lofty standards. After some high profile spankings it seems to be settling in as being about a grade harder (not a grade easier!) than Serpentine, so Dave's original grade of 28 has been bumped up to a solid 29...and may not stop there! Start in Lawrence of Arabia, about 6-8m R of Quetzalcoatl and 5-6m L of Scud Buster. It's best to fix a rope 8m to the ground so you can belay from the ground and jug/batman to start.
FA: Dave Jones, 1998 | 61m, 3 | |||
29 | ★★ Kundalini
Starts as for Feather Boa until a few metres below the main roof, then go right through the roof and up the headwall for a few more metres to an anchor in the middle of nowhere where the holds run out. FA: Jai Critchley, 2015 | 40m | |||
34 | Askleipos
Extension to Kundalini. Adds another 7m of hard climbing on thin crimps and pockets and a final jump to the ledge. FA: Alex Megos, 2015 | 25m | |||
24 | ★ Scud Buster
Some fantastic slabbing in the prime central part of Taipan. Hard for 24. Start at the first belay of Lawrence of Arabia, which is most conveniently accessed by jugging 8m up the FB or Serpentine fixed ropes, if they're there. From the R end of the roof-like section of the horizontal, head up on pockets (thread, #3-4 cam). Continue slabbing past 4 hangerless bolts (rebolted 2011) to ledge below main roof. Traverse 5m R (small-med cams) to the first belay of Serpentine. Rap off (20m). FA: Richard Smith & Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 75m, 4 | |||
29 | ★★★ Angst
Makes Rage an independent line to the top, providing another awesome pitch up the most majestic part of Taipan. Start as for Serpentine pitch 2. Follow Rage for 5 bolts then head left to wide runnel, follow right side of runnel to just below roof, span left across runnel, then up to roof. Follow right side of next runnel to top. Another variant has been bolted (see 41b in topo) which moves left after only 1 or 2 bolts of Rage and up the faint arete to join into Angst. FFA: adam demmert, 2011 | 40m, 9 | |||
29 | ★★★ Rage
A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Significantly harder than Serpentine. Pull through initial roof on Serpentine p2 then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 35m, 7 | |||
29 | ★★★ Serpentine
This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1988 FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 1988 | 75m, 2, 11 | |||
24 | ★ Serpentine Pitch 1
FA: Malcolm Matheson | 30m | |||
Serpentine Direct Start
This is the bolted line directly below Serpentine's first belay. Some Serpentine aspirants stick-clip their way up this to avoid doing Serpentine's first pitch! 1 FH below the Lawrence of Arabia break, then a few more FHs up the faint arete above before joining Serpentine's first pitch for the last 10m to the belay (25m rap). Set: Equipped by Nick White?, 2000 FFA: Nalle Hukkataival, 2017 | 25m | ||||
30 | ★★★ Naja
After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.
FA: Equipped Steve Monksish? & sent by Dave Jones, 1990 | 45m, 2, 8 | |||
27 | ★ Naja pitch 1
| 25m |
Showing all 53 routes.