Showing all 19 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | Buried Standing Up
Obvious line but doesn't appeal. Pro is a bit awkward to place but good. Start 5m L of 'Mistaken Identity'. Up to and through the break in the overhang and continue. FA: Brendan Abernathy & Andy Reynolds, 1998 | 12m | |||
20 R | Mistaken Identity
A good wall leads to a corner with a rounded finish and fiddly pro. The second hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus'. Wall into corner. Corner with dodgy protection (2 each of #3 & #4 RPs for final moves, twist the RPs if you can). FA: Kieran Loughran & Bill Andrews, 1985 | 15m | |||
20 R | The Visiting Bloke
Dirty, with soft rock and sparse protection. The first hanging corner left of 'Epsilon Plus', 10m right of 'Mistaken Identity'. Easily up to corner then carefully up this to finish. FA: Peter Martin, Simon Priest & Andrew Brookes, 1989 | 20m | |||
22 X | Decadant Bolting
Death on a stick! It's a shame this route is ruined by macho bullshit runouts; if the 2 bolts were replaced, and another was added between them, it would actually be worthwhile. If you really want to prove you're a hero, don't whip out the drill in the first place! Start: Start two metres left of 'Identity Crisis', four metres right of Iron In The Soul. FA: Richard Smith & Kieran Loughran, 1991 | 15m, 2 | |||
21 R | Identity Crisis
Who am I? What's my purpose in life? What am I doing here? Serious climbing with poor protection and dirt. The distinctive twin seams up the centre of the face, 10m left of 'Epsilon Plus'. FA: Peter Martin & Chris Cope, 1989 | 15m | |||
22 | ★ Full Face Value
Good thin face with reachy crux at first bolt. Climb 'Identity Crisis' to first ledge. Right past FH, up and right, two BRs, and finish up right around bulge and up onto slab. Belay off trad in horizontal. FA: Rob Nabben & Andrew Stevens, 1991 | 15m, 3 | |||
15 R | Epsilon Plus
A complete body workout. Enjoy! This is one of the first recorded redpoints in 'Victoria'. Guild had previously practised the climb on top-rope. Heaven knows why he returned to lead it. Start: The obvious, extremely wide left-facing corner-crack that splits the centre of the crag. FA: Ian Guild & Chris Dewhirst, 1966 | 21m | |||
23 X | New Imperative
It's imperative that you don't fall (E5, 6a?)! Still, the ethic of this route is vastly superior to the partly bolted contrived boldness of Death on a Stick or 'Diazepam' (until it got retroed). Start: Start 5m R of 'Epsilon Plus'. FA: Jarod McCulloch, Peter Martin & Richard Bugg, 1989 | 20m | |||
20 | ★★ Benn Gunn
The initial corner is excellent but the second half of the climb is not so good. Beware of loose blocks at the top of the main corner. Even the obvious flake-roof should be treated with respect. Start: The attractive corner 15m R of 'Epsilon Plus'. FA: FA Andrew Thomson & David Mudie, 1970 FFA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 40m | |||
23 | Ordinary Bolted Arete
Big shiny ringbolts up short arete left of 'Crossfire'. Only has about 4m of truly indepedent climbing. FA: Christoph & Simon Wheeler, 2003 | 18m | |||
18 | ★★ Crossfire
A lovely orange corner leads to an exciting traverse. Slightly marred by a scrappy approach and finish. Start: Start below orange corner R of 'Benn Gunn'. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Glen Tempest, 1977 | 25m | |||
16 | ★ Schooner
A nice crack line which needs a bit more traffic to stay clean. While not as technically hard as 'Crossfire' the rock and protection is not as good and it makes for a hard lead. Start: Start up 'Crossfire' to first ledge. FA: Keith Egerton & Dave McLean, 1977 | 30m | |||
17 | Skip Transit Gloria
Steeper than it looks. Add some slings to a rack of small-medium wires and medium cams. Start: Start a few metres L of Let X=X. FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2007 | 13m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Let X=X
Pretty good. Sharp corner leading to roof on L side of terrace. Undercut start to corner, bridge past bracken to roof. Traverse L to large ledge. Rap. FA: Kieran Loughran, 1989 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Speaking French
The right wall and arete of Let X=X is not too hard but has it moments, particularly the finish which is sensational. The start of Let X=X provides the crux and requires trad gear. So a large rack doesn't have to be carried here is the trad gear used in order of use: #0.75 (green) Camalot, #0.4 (grey) Camalot, #0.5 (purple) Camalot, #3 (blue) Camalot, #0.75 (green) Camalot (extend with sling). Start: Start as for Let X=X FA: Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 2008 | 15m, 4 | |||
22 | Hop Skip and Thump
Trad route with a sting in the tail. Take slings, wires and cams to #3 Friend (gold Camalot). Jugs up the right side of the wall then traverses to the central weakness. Start just right of 'Walking and Falling' being careful not to disturb the bones behind you. Climb up onto the boulder sitting at the base of the wall. Climb steep but easy rock until able to traverse left along the break to below the central seam on the wall. Climb the seam past a FH just below the top to rap anchor. Gear Beta: Crucial gear for the hard move below the final bolt is gkijv tqem (two letter shift alphabetic code- don't decode if you want the full onsight experience). When rapping be careful to keep the rope out of a thin crack where it will jam badly. FA: Norm Booth & Kieran Loughran, 2007 | 20m, 1 | |||
15 | Skippy Takes a Shortcut
Interesting climbing on steep rock that appears fragile but holds up quite well. This supersedes a weak previous route "An Imaginary Life". Take wires, slings and cams to 2.5 Friend (Red Camalot). The current descent is to scramble around to the rap anchor for "Hop Skip and Thump" but it really needs its own rap anchor. Start about 15m R of Let X=X on the R side of a boulder at the foot of the chimney-gully, being careful not to step on Skippy's bones. Bridge between boulder and face and pull onto face (FH) and up shallow crack in face to overhang. Directly through overhang and up face (2FH) and on to top. Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman climbed the original route in March 1992. Loughran and Norm Booth did the direct version November 2007. FA: Keiran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992 | 15m, 3 | |||
15 | Spare Ribs
Takes rib/arete about 4 metres right of 'Skippy' Takes A 'Short Cut'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Canning, 2009 | 30m | |||
23 | Skippity Do Dah
Sherpa Tim leads the geriartrics to glory up this short but intense number. FA: Tim Lockwood, Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 2009 | 10m |
Showing all 19 routes.