Routes as trad in Amnesty Wall Area

During or after rain a waterfall tumbles over the cliff directly below the Crankstart Amphitheatre. If it isn't flowing, start climbing! The newer sport routes on either side have effectively retrobolted a fair portion of this route.

Start: Starts a metre to the right of 'The Tyrants Grasp' but on the ground level.

The good fight.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Chinese Water Torture' at the incipient corner.

Easy choss crack climbing.

Start: Start beneath the right side of the 'Amnesia' Pillar.

1. 20m (13) Up mossy slab for 5m to roof. Skirt right under this for 3m. Up wide right facing chossy mossy flake to belay on ledge behind pillar.

2. 25m (13) Up the orange wall to traverse right until able to move up the guano covered pillar. Continue right to jugs and up.

Wandery arete and ledge climbing on suss rock.

Start: The arete just right of 'Amnesia'.

1. 15m (15) Up the right side of the arete, side runner at 5m, to the cave.

2. 10m (15) Up the flake on the left side of the arete to the top of the pinnacle. Cross over to the main cliff and finish up 'Private Investigations' (a tyrolean traverse should not be required).

Wall climbing mediocrity.

Start: Located about 10m left of the chimney on north facing grey wall that sits at a 90 degree offset to the main cliff.

Start: Start at the steep flake on the left side of the wall. Up the flake to traverse right 5m at the obvious horizontal, then the line above to the top.

Start 3m right of 'Western Ayatollahs' at a short, shallow, left-facing corner. Take some medium cams and wires for placements between the bolts. Up the corner past a fixed hanger. Pull up right onto the shoulder and move up past the second fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Straight up the orange wall past three more fixed hangers.

The original, and still one of the best. Take a normal trad rack.

Starts at the thin seam with a fixed hanger.

Excellent, varied climbing up the dominant line on the proudest section of this wonderful wall. The spectacular and exposed finish is the icing on the cake. Take a reasonably full trad rack. Climb the first 6m as for 'Crank Start' to the obvious horizontal break. Move a metre right into the line and follow this up to surmount the rightward-leaning pillar to a seat beneath the final headwall. Move past a fixed hanger and around the little roof, then clip the next fixed hanger and make some spectacular moves up and right around the lip of the summit roof.

Old school trad wall climbing. Some of the rock is a bit fragile in places.

Excellent gymnastic climbing with crux sections at each of the three fixed hangers. Straightens out 'Pass Laws' and adds a direct finish. Take some trad gear to augment the fixed protection. Start as for the bouldery start of 'Pass Laws' then, instead of the little shimmy left, up and right, head straight up past the second hanger to the obvious traverse line. Continue up directly, past the third hanger.(Upgraded from 24 to 25)

Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Pass Laws'. It is easy to stick clip the first hanger if you so wish. Pull into the grey scoop and out right, then up to the big horizontal break (RB). Through the bulge, past a fixed hanger (crux) and up past four more. A few wires are handy to protect the top.

Starts about 3 or 4 metres right of 'Sendero Luminoso' and a couple of metres left of the easy stuff. Up the wall past a fixed hanger to the horizontal break. Move a couple of metres left to a pocket and head up immediately right of this through the bulge past a second fixed hanger. Trend left to join 'Sendero Luminoso' at its fourth bolt and follow that route to the top.

A great climb that deserves more ascents.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Private Investigations', from the boulder.

Better than some and worse than others. The second pitch is nice.

Start: Starts in the bushes 5m down right of 'No Fixed Address'.

1. 15m (16) Up steep initial wall via a horizontal break, then up ledge (small tree on left) and a slabby arete to a mega-ledge.

2. 10m (16) The big corner at the back of the ledge.

A landmark stunning layback.

Start: This left facing ultra wide corner crack is hard to miss.

Delicate slabbing and one of the best long beginner routes in the area. A slight variant of this route was claimed as Swiss Cheese 47m 14 by Richard Morris in 1986.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Layback' And Think at left end of slabby wall.

1. 16m (13) Up the thin slab (crux with marginal gear) moving left towards the arete. Pass the left side of small tree via thin right leading crack to belay below a slight bulge. You can link this pitch with the 2nd pitch on a 60m rope for a good long adventure.

2. 40m (10) Follow the left leading juggy crack for 10m, up the wall above for another 10m passing a wide crack then straight through the small overhang to large belay ledge with bollards galore.

3. 30m (7) Follow your nose up easy jugs to the top. This pitch is pretty crappy. Best to just bail off left or find the rap slings and descend.

A good slabby line but a little mossy in places. Protecton can be fiddly to find and place in certain sections.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Paperclip' on ledge accessed by scrambling up under chockstone.

Looks more intimidating than the original.

Start: Start as for 'Orange Blossom Special'.

Variant middle to 'Orange Blossom Special'.

Start: From the block at the base of 'Orange Blossom Special', traverse about 2m out left then straight up via yellow streak to join Orange Blossum Special at the left end of the roof. A #5 hex protects the high crux.

Struggles to stay away from the jugs on the left. Another pleasant slab but has silly bolting with huge runouts.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'The Wide Crack Adventure', but on top of ledge accessed via chockstones under block. You can also start as for 'The Wide Crack Adventure' and head rightwards at 5m.

Runout slab climbing.

Start: Start as for 'The Pregnancy Factor', but follow the flake for 2m more past the dark rock then straight up on good turtle shell rock just to the left of the BR on 'The Pregnancy Factor'.

A splitter line from afar which seems to have been un-recorded for some strange reason. Another good beginner route.

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Paperclip' below striking wide crack line blasting up slab.