Routes as sport in The Gallery

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

Start 5m right of 'Bang, Bang You're Dead!'. Balancy start past U-bolt. 5 more FHs (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.

Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FH¹s. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off.

One move wonder and a soft touch.

Not a one move wonder, and not a soft touch.

Orange overhung arête 10m below and 20m left of the Gallery main cave. Ringbolts! Stick clip first bolt.

Tough boulderery start of the cairn. Follow the dyke feature to anchor. Thin, technical and sustained.

Fight your way through a selection of sharpish pillows to a blissful ramble.

A bit more pump than the other two

Classic pumping leads into a tricky traverse L to an exposed stance on the arete. Finish up on huge buckets.

Navigate your way through the maze of chalk on some of the biggest holds you're ever likely to find at this grade. Easier than 'Weaveworld' and a popular "warmup".

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

Linkup of a more petite fashion.

No prizes for guessing which routes...

It's 3 o'clock..tick tock..

A hard bouldery start, then it's a pumpy fight up and L to the same chain as the previous routes.

Starts as CTS finishes up MP. Classic pumping.

Popular with the euros. Up the next line R to a big dyno. Finish off L in the cave. Upgraded due to broken hold

The RH finish to 'Le Petit Mort'. Keep on truckin' up the steep headwall after doind most of LPM. Some people start up Chasin' the 'Shadow' instead, but they are silly.

Starts as koala, into monkey direct. Finishes as nicotine headwall. Power Endurance.

The line of the crag. Long steep pumper straight through the guts of the wall. To descend either; back-clean, lower off 'Nicotine' bolts (careful traversing over), or top out and untie (and leave your draws there for the next punter).

Bouldery start into monkey puzzle.

Break off left after 3rd bolt of Koala into MPD.

Link 'Monkey' Direct into Koala

Rock isn't as good as the other routes here, but it has a couple interesting moves.

Really steep, but a few sneaky rests take the sting out a bit (if you find them).

Make sure your belayer is paying attention when you are clipping. It's not a serious route or a death route, but it could be messy.

Next line right of GT. Crux at the lip, so watch your back (as for previous route).

Mega R to L traverse. Start in the back of the cave R of Pigs. Up through Pigs, cross GT at the 3rd bolt, pull the lip of Koala, move past MP and 'Nicotine', then finish as for LPM.

Linkup el supremo. First 3 bolts on TT, move R acros CTS and LPM, join MP at fifth bolt. Finish up MP.

A good one to do when the crag is realy busy!

Start from the left end of the cave. 3m up, cross right then straight up past RBs.