Another fine route by this crack climbing team. The cliff splitting line up the left side of the Crimson Tower. At the top of the chimney (40m) belay on the ledge. Second pitch launches out right across mega exposure to reach summit.
Two pitches of outragous steep and interesting climbing, with a very thin and reachy crux pitch. One of the last major walls in the 'Grampians' to be climbed? Originally equipped by Jono Schmidt and Neil mid 2007, it took five months before Neil could convince anyone else to go in to try it! This route could be led in one giant pitch, but you would need more than 25 quickdraws and a double sized rack. The climb stays mostly dry even in torrential rain - as tested on the first ascent!
Start: Starts on the far left of the Crimson Tower, on sloping rock platforms. Bring a large cam to belay from.
30m (25) Step right (FH) and across crimpy slab and into shallow corner. Up this on small wires/cams to rooflet and juggy grey wall. Up reachy flake to big heuco, then crux crimpy face above to belay in large horizontal slot. For the hanging belay anchors use RB above, and medium cams to the left. Six bolts in total on this pitch.
30m (24) Stunning location. Out roof and up exposed headwall past 4 ringbolts to base of left facing corner. Up this on trad then step right, to final difficult grey wall. Rap off with DOUBLE 60m ropes. 50m ropes will NOT reach the ground.
