Routes as trad in Besser Buttresses

Are you sure this is Goldirocks?

Start: The corner at the left-hand side of the upper cliff.

1. 35m (15) Up to the ledge below the overhang at 6 metres. Energetically over this and up the crack above.

2. 15m (-) Corner and chimney roof.

Up the buttress, finishing up "Middle Line" or scrambling off left.

Start: Smooth buttress just left of the first pitch of "Middle Line".

Watch out for the pile of bricks. Climb the middle of the central buttress, starting up the right-slanting corner.

On the right wall of the three buttresses is a large flake system. Climb easily up to the roof. Traverse left under the roof and go up the crack.

Climb the wall on the uphill buttress easily until beneath the big split in the roof. After the initial juggy section, the orange wall below the roof is the crux. The roof is relatively easy.