Showing all 12 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | ★ Highway to the Dangerzone
1
15
2
21
Climbs the prominent crack about 20m right of Hypothermia just before the big cave. Two good pitches in an amazing location. Recommended rack: single set of wires and double cams to #3.
FA: Rene Provis, Julie Pon & Match, Oct 2018 FFA: Rene Provis & Vicky Chen, 5 Dec 2018 | 45m, 2 | |||
Closed Project
Obvious wide crack that splits the upper wall. 30m left of the Lunch Ledge rap station. | |||||
25 | ★★★ Samarkand
1
19
15m
2
25
35m
3
23
20m
4
22
35m
5
22
25m
6
22
20m
Some call this overhung crack splitting an amphitheatre the best multi-pitch trad route in the Blue Mountains. Every pitch is great and the access is surprisingly easy. It is however quite difficult to retreat once a couple of pitches off the deck due to the steepness. Bring prussics! This route was originally climbed ground up with an overnight bivy on one of the small ledges and with several sections of aid. Recent rebolting of the original aid bolts ladders has reduced the original bolt count by at least 3 - it's more airy but the bolts are better! Access via the rap route described separately. Double rack of cams, micros to Camalot #4, a single set of wires, #2 RP up, and 5 bolt plates does the trick.
FA: Lucas Trihey & Bob McMahon, 1992 FFA: Michael Law, Greg Child, Steve Moon & Wawrick Payten, 1996 | 150m, 6 | |||
22 | ★★ Gnaw Iron Bars
FA: M Wilson & M Law, 2007 | 150m, 6 | |||
19 | ★★ The Silk Road
1
17
35m
2
19
35m
3
19
30m
4
16
25m
Quite a striking line climbing a continuous corner crack system back to the Lunch Ledge. Starts about 50m left (facing the cliff) of the Mirrorball pinnacle, downhill under right facing corner. All trad with gear belays, no bolts please. Gear: wires, double cams to #3 (an extra #2 could come in handy), and an optional #6 for pitch 3. Good gear and great rock throughout.
FFA: Rene Provis & Match, 21 Sep 2018 | 130m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ My Kind of Bliss
Major featured corner just left (facing the cliff) and down the hill from the Mirrorball pinnacle. Take a handful of bolt plates.
FA: Mark Wilson, Michael Law & Vanessa Peterson, 2001 | 100m, 4, 5 | |||
14 | ★★ Darkside
1
14
40m
2
14
20m
3
10
35m
4
15m
Starts behind Mirrorball Pinnacle. 4 pitches. Bolts and gear. Old fashioned 14, may be 17 for sport climbers.
FA: Ness, Mikl & Mark Wilson | 110m, 4, 10 | |||
20 | ★ A little Somthin' on the Side
Start approx 10-15m left of West Face of The Mirrorball where the crack constricts above the obvious wide chossy chimney (wide start may also go direct. Not climbed on FA due to presence of angry snake.)
FA: Rene Provis & Match, 14 Sep 2018 | 120m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Dirty Dancing
The obvious chimney & crack that splits the front face of the Mirrorball Pinnacle.
All bolts are stainless steel glue-in hex heads (bring lots of bolt plates!). A good variation is to do P1 of 'The West Face of the Mirrorball', then step right to do P2 of 'Dirty Dancing', then P3 of either route - the belays are on the same ledge systems. FA: Peter Monks & Andrew Duckworth (alt), 2001 | 63m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★ Old Skool
Climb the south-facing (downhill) arete of the free-standing pinnacle 40m past Weaselburger, predominantly on gear. 5 carrot bolts and a double rack of cams. Bring more big cams (#3 an #4) if you get scared on trad. Rap off anchor at the top, 45m straight over the route. FA: M Law & V Peterson, 2003 | 45m | |||
20 | ★ Big Trad Thong
Mixed climbing up a prominant crack line and around some huge roofs. Rock is of varying quality, but bolts protect the worst of it, and the spectacular under-roof traverse is on mostly good rock. Take a standard rack plus extra big cams and hexes to fist + size, many slings, 10 brackets. Start: Start below a steep yellow layback corner (pitch 1 of Blue Ruin) 70m right of the Mirrorball pinnacle.
FA: M Law, V Peterson & N Monteith, 2008 | 200m, 6 | |||
14 | ★★★ Glory Hole to the Grose
If you like chimneys, this is a 3 Star classic. Makes for a great bit of extra climbing if you're already out doing Darkside or something similar. Bring a double rack up to #4 plus one #5 and #6 Start at the base of the obvious chasm 20m right of Big Trad Thong. Make your way up the endless enclosed chimney following the obvious formation (eats gear), then about 3/4 of the way up thrutch your way to the chock stones. Sling a chock stone (whichever feels most solid), then thrutch some more until you are reborn into the outside world. Tree Belay. As of Nov 2019, the slings and maillon for the tree belay look to be in great condition. FA: Mitchell Stewart, DJ McCready & Nathanual Hebbard, 17 Sep 2018 | 40m |
Showing all 12 routes.