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Routes as trad in Sron na Ciche

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Showing all 15 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Eastern Buttress
E3 5c Spock Trad
HVS 5a Vulcan
Trad 67m, 3
E3 5c Uhuru Trad 80m, 2
Cioch Buttress
HS 4b Cioch Direct Trad 150m, 5
VS 4c Petronella Trad 75m
D Little Gully Trad 75m, 3
HVS 5a Crembo Cracks Trad 120m
S Cioch West Trad 220m
The Cioch & Cioch Slab
M Collie's Route Trad
S 4b Cioch Direct

Polished but a classic. Brings you out on top of the Cioch. What a way to finish!

Trad 150m
VD Arrow Route Trad 61m
D Slab Corner Trad 61m, 2
E7 6b The Gathering

Dave Maclead about the route:

The route takes the steep and shady underside of the Cioch itself, following the line of a faint seam running above roofs which leads to a lonely spike in the middle of the wall. The meat of the route (up to the spike) has no protection and sustained 6b a long way above the very hard Cioch slabs below. However, the climbing is awesome - crimping the pock-marked texture of the rock. I top roped the route in 2002 but couldn't return for the lead due to bad weather. This time I had it wired again in an hour and led before the weather had a chance to intervene again. The route is called The Gathering and is about E8 6b (7b+ climbing with a 40 foot fall straight onto the slabs if you fall). The biggest problem for the lead was the slightly scrittly nature of the pocks and smears; there was a tendency for tiny crystals to crumble beneath your feet/fingers as you moved. This happened on the crucial final pocket from which you reach the spike holds. I started the move but a crystal broke, making me wobble slightly. I locked off and blew on the pocket, rechalked and regained composure and kept going. All a bit scary. Hardest route in the Cuillin and on Skye.

FA: Dave Macleod, 2004

Trad
VD Cioch Nose Trad 45m
Cioch Upper Buttress
VS 4b Integrity Trad 75m, 2

Showing all 15 routes.

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