Routes as unknown in North West

The Next diagonal crack system heading up the wall joining TFOTL just

before the first break

Variant start to 'Rush'.

Start as for 'Rush'. When you arrive at the bulge, move up right diagonally until you reach above the chimney.

Project

I haven't found a description of this. No idea about grade or quality. It tackles an impressive wall above P1 of 'Storm'. There is a diagram that includes it in the VCC SE 'Grampians' update vol 2.

Start: As for 'Storm'

1. 39m (-) As for 'Storm'.

2. 30m (-) Going by the diagram it heads out L past a bolt then up past 4 more bolts going through a roof near the top.

Up the discontinuous line

Start: Starts 2m to the left of the right arete on the north face of the buttress immediatly (10m) right of the landmark pinnacle.

Insignificant.

Start: Just right of descent gully at left end of cliff. Up easily on left, then right to seam. Up.

Straightens out "Varicose Vines"

Spectacular stuff. Takes a hanging rib which bisects two big red caves, then a sweeping blade arete above. 'The caves' feature the roof climb "Path of Garth".

Start: Starts: On big cliff down and right of main 'Muline Crag'. From the car, walk up track as far as the second rocky outcrop. Skirt right 50m around base of outcrop to cliff.

1. 20m (16) A ramp leads out the right side of a scoop. Continue up orange bulging wall to base of rib.

2. 20m (16) Rib, then arete. Walk off left.

As for blind man with a pistol until headwall. Follow crazy dihedral left to a classic power endurance crux.

Starts as first pitch of China Fingers. Blast directly up orange face and corner. Veer left on flakes to slight brown streak. Final boulder guards the anchor. Massive pitch.

A line of rings. Might be Chris Coppard's project?

Line of fixed hangers that comes out of Unknown 1.

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

A bucket haul with a fun conclusion.

Climb the overhanging descent gully wall and traverse left at the obvious break. Finish as for Big Nose N Barge Arse Go Bouldering.

At the top of Green 'Gully' is a corner with a bouldery start.

Takes the centre of the face on block overlooking head of Green 'Gully'.

Bouldery prow following seam, pockets and interesting slots. Same start as afterlife.

Up wall just left of wideish line.

Vertical seam into roof.

Pitch 2 - 3 rests

Promises, promises. Starts below the central overhangs and orange rock. Up behind the dead tree (?still exists) then through the centre of the roof. Continue tranding rightwards up the centre of the face above.

Start just left of the blank arete. Up through an overhang then up a vague groove to finish up centre of upper wall. There is loose rock at the top.

Start as for Inside The Avenue, 3 metres left of Summer Breeze Up the wall on left of the corner, then groove past the final wall on left.

Start as for Back Alley, 3 metres left of Summer Breeze. Up to left-facing corner then the face above this.

Start as for Diamonds in the Forest.

The arete, straight up.

The classic of the crag, taking the diagonal line across the west face on the block to the right of the chasm.

Up the cracks on the left arete then traverse right to the central diagonal line. Up this.

Probably needs some bolts. Has only been top-roped. Wall right of Free To Good Home, keeping close to right arete.

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

The righthand roof crack. Established onsight.

Overlap, crack at right end of next main wall.

1. 30m (17) The crack. Move right below the roof to join "Scabs On Heat".

2. 35m (5) As for "Scabs On Heat"

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Scabs On Heat", near arete.

1. 35m (16) Undercut start, then take left-leading ramp/crack to top of block.

2. 35m (5) as for "Scabs On Heat"

Starts 5m right of Horizon. Follow the hangers them move diagonally left. No anchor as yet.

May be a repeat of "A Soft Furry Thing". As you walk past the southern face of the 'Mountain Lion' there is a slab with a broken corner with two cracks.

Start 3 metres left of seepage line.

Up wall passing small right-facing corner at about 10 metres and straight up through bulge to top.

On the left side of the steep grey wall is a dirty groove with a thin crack just left of its middle third.

Start right of the dirty groove and climb up (harder than it looks) to the base of the thin crack below the small roof. Step up left and then back right under the big roof. Steeply up the right edge of the face.

There is a pocketed wall about 20 metres to the right of Cancer Ward. To get there, head down around the toe of the huge triangular-shaped block immediately right of Cancer Ward and then sidle back along the next wall for about 25 metres. The wall is about 15 metres tall, heavily pocketed and has a large roof at the right-hand end.

Start at the left end of a ledge about 5 metres to the left of the left end of the roof.

Up on pockets veering slightly left to pick up the small flake at about 2/3 height.

Traverse right across the ledge immediately above the roof. Up to and around right of the small roof on the arete and directly up the wall just right of the arete. Be careful of rope drag.

Start: Start as for "Reclaiming The Night".

Take the right-hand crack until it finishes. Straight up.

From the first ledge, take crack up wall.

Climb the flake and wall a few metres right of the chimney to cracks. Up to and over overlap.

Great but too short. Around in the gully the pinnacle wall sports nice orange rock. take the crooked line in the middle, finishing on jugs.

Harder than it looks. Crack 2 metres left of "No Squids On Stirling!".

Up the ramp at the right end of the black buttress to aledge. Up the system of thin cracks in the grey wall, step right to the black diagonal crack then up.

Start: From the right end, walk left through a small col and 20 metres left of this is a black buttress.

Start just left of gum. Up and left to buckets. Step right through overlap and straight up seam.

Argus May 95

Argus May 95

These routes were well described here. This can be climbed as two pitches. First pitch to the ring bolt is 18 (lower off the single ring-bolt ??). Second pitch is straight up the clean streak past 4 bolts (mix of carrots and fixed hangers), stepping into the line of Alms for the Beggarman at the last bolt and then running it out by moving right to find the small ramp/arete on clean rock and running it out to the top. Belay at chains